Saga SV / FLX user~ mind share ur saga fuel consumption and which brand of petrol u r using? =)
I start wit my first
Caltex 95
70% city drive 30% highway
full tank 250-270 km =)

mine one is RM60, 400km~ I use MEx highway and Mrr2~~~

how come some get 400km+ while some just 250km+?
fluctuate so much?
saga blm is very bad in fc....
used to rent saga blm auto in langkawi and kk sabah..
its like 9km/l for me...

for newer version of cvt instead of 4 A/T, does the timing during high speed cruising improved?
before BLM the timing is very high for 110km/h cruising, hence consuming more petrol..

How u guy get up to 400km???
I heard some ppl say to apply ground cable or voltage stabilizer can help to improve the fc ?

How u guy get up to 400km???
I heard some ppl say to apply ground cable or voltage stabilizer can help to improve the fc ?

You can easily get above 400km on highway or long distance. I drive my gf saga 1.3 cvt an get 500km when doing long distance at 80  - 100 kph with aircon.

How u guy get up to 400km???
I heard some ppl say to apply ground cable or voltage stabilizer can help to improve the fc ?

How much petrol?

Usually full tank around rm65 - 70 with current price.

250km highway,200km PJ city.

Wow. I dare not drive until tank empty. normally drive till 2 bar left then go for refill.
Am driving Saga BLM 1.6 manual.

normally driving in highway 70% town 30% will return me 280-330km.
BTW, when the oil gauge starts to blink, how many litre left?

Saga FLX 1.3,I pump RM60 for 230km to reach indicator blinking,driving in PJ, does my car has a problem? COz the FC is too terrible,I can see each bar for only 32km and I am not even a heavy pedal person. Any comment?

Saga FLX 1.3,I pump RM60 for 230km to reach indicator blinking,driving in PJ, does my car has a problem? COz the FC is too terrible,I can see each bar for only 32km and I am not even a heavy pedal person. Any comment?

That is why, RM60 for 220-240km from my car,is so annoying.Test so many times also the same amount of 28-35km per bar in city drives.That is just very very "TERRIBLE" la.I try to pump and drive a smoother road,still same FC.

Never get a Proton anymore,heartache ady~

That is why, RM60 for 220-240km from my car,is so annoying.Test so many times also the same amount of 28-35km per bar in city drives.That is just very very "TERRIBLE" la.I try to pump and drive a smoother road,still same FC.

Never get a Proton anymore,heartache ady~

That is why, RM60 for 220-240km from my car,is so annoying.Test so many times also the same amount of 28-35km per bar in city drives.That is just very very "TERRIBLE" la.I try to pump and drive a smoother road,still same FC.

Never get a Proton anymore,heartache ady~

That is why, RM60 for 220-240km from my car,is so annoying.Test so many times also the same amount of 28-35km per bar in city drives.That is just very very "TERRIBLE" la.I try to pump and drive a smoother road,still same FC.

Never get a Proton anymore,heartache ady~

Well, Proton still worth something, as long as it is not Proton chasis + Campro engine. Campro + Mitsubishi engine still the best from my point of view. My Wira even stuck in heavy jams also can about 13km/l. And now my Inspira 1.8M also doing slightly better than 13km/l. But my friend's Preve CFE even with light foot also can't come close to 11km/l.

Preve CFE is CVT how to compare with manual.

Is it? But all the sellers are using this to boast it has better FC performance compare to manual
Are you trying to say that they are actually cheating people

CVT can be more efficient than manual because:

1. The engine can always be revving at the most efficient speed, while for fixed ratio gearboxes the engine typically doesn't stay in the efficient powerband a lot of the time.

2. There is no interruption while accelerating. Even the fastest manual shifters will still have a spilt second when the engine is not driving the wheels between shifts.

3. If you drive a manual properly, you would rev match a lot. Pressing the throttle in neutral or with the clutch disengaged is just wasting fuel.

There are some points for manual driving:

- When accelerating, if you are too slow you waste fuel by not covering ground fast enough, too fast and you also waste fuel by spraying an unnecessarily rich mixture which does not translate into acceleration. I believe there are two different ways which people feel the throttle, first is press to a fixed point immediately and wait for the revs to catch up, the second is to gently ease up the revs while pressing the pedal. The latter is definitely more efficient. Change up when you feel the engine has reached its sweet spot.

- When to shift up? I personally don't think there's a fixed point such as 2,000 RPM. It depends on the traffic situation and road condition. For example if traffic is moving slowly then I shift up really early, by 40 km/h I'm already in 4th gear (gentle acceleration) (bear in mind your Getrag has taller ratios than my Aichi Pockai). If it's an open road ahead then I tend to drag gears a little longer, because if I shift too early, the engine will be well below the efficient torque band, which brings us to the next point...

- Use the correct gear for the correct condition. Ever ridden a multi-speed bicycle? Your car engine feels exactly the same as when you're pedaling a bike. I think people who have spent a lot of time cycling are more efficient manual drivers as they understand the principles of gearing. The first thing to know is that lower RPM does not necessarily mean better efficiency. The low RPM = efficient rule only applies if you're cruising at a constant speed or accelerating *very* gently on flat ground or going downhill. For going uphill, you probably already know that you need to rev higher by using a lower ratio. For example, climbing up a moderate slope at 40 km/h in 4th gear which on my gearbox will give me about 2,000 RPM. With that ratio, you probably have to open the throttle quite a bit to maintain that speed, so a lot of fuel is pumped into the engine but the ratio is too high and you may feel the engine struggle to maintain that speed. However if you climb the same slope at 40 km/h but in 3rd gear, your revs will be closer to 3,000 RPM and you don't have to open the throttle as much as you did in 4th gear, so it's actually more efficient even though your engine revs are higher.

Also other points regardless of gearbox:

- Anticipate the traffic in front of you. Look beyond the car directly in front and observe the traffic flow. My favourite way to measure how well you do this is to watch the brake lights of the car in front and count how many times they brake compared to how many times you brake. I find that generally, for every 5 or 6 times the car in front brakes, I only brake once. Remember that braking converts your car kinetic energy into heat and every time you brake, you have to accelerate and burn fuel to regain your speed. Therefore a driver who brakes minimally is an efficient driver. You must use your brakes when necessary, such as coming to a stop but generally, drive in a manner which minimises braking. In heavy traffic, accelerate gently. Don't attempt to block vehicles cutting in front of you. If you see a red light in front, lift off the throttle and coast.

- The most efficient cruising speed is around 80-90 km/h. Any faster and your engine will be wasting power unnecessarily on overcoming drag from air resistance. Following this rule I managed to hit 546 km on about 34L, gogoman86 who has done 600+ km on a tank will probably tell you the same too.

- If your time is flexible, avoid traffic jams. It's a 20 km drive to office for me every day. In the mornings if I leave at 7 or 8 am, it takes an hour to get to office. However after 9 am the time is reduced to less than half an hour. As for coming home, the earliest time I leave office is 7 pm, because before that various places will be congested. I can leave at about 6+, but I choose to stay to 7+ just to beat the jam.

- Watch the air cond thermostat. The colder your setting, the more often the compressor has to run and more fuel will be burnt. For me, the warmest temperature and blower speed 1 will suffice at night and early morning, during mid-day blower speed 2 and thermostat somewhere in the middle. Also I wait for the engine to warm up first by driving a few kilometres before turning the air-cond. The engine is thirsty when cold and there's no need to add additional load then.

- Generally engine oil has negligible difference on consumption. Been on 15w50 from new until 50,000 km, then switched to 10w30 but I don't think that has improved my consumption. My previous 546 km on a tank and also 20 km/L achieved on a midnight run with davidke20 were on 15w50. 

- There's only a certain amount you can do to improve your consumption. When I lived in PJ I could consistently hit below 8L/100 km and get 400-450 km a tank (sometimes more, especially with trips to KLIA), however here in Penang I normally get about 8-8.5L/100km due traffic lights every few hundred metres. I've tried really hard, following all the points mentioned above and going as far as switching off the engine at traffic lights (manual stop-start) but it's still very hard to get below 8L/100 km on this Island. The Campro engine is thirsty by nature and initially available only with poor gearbox choices, but now with the CVT and Getrag manual you guys are better off than us stuck with the older gearbox. So don't feel overly frustrated if your figures are not looking good, apply all the points above and if you're really fed up, sell the Gaga and buy a BiBa / Mirage / secondhand Sawi.

- If you haven't already done so, go sign up for an account at www.fuelly.com so that you can log and analyse your consumption over time.

Thats what I hate about these indicator (each bar not equal in size). made me wonder if each of them represent an equal amount of fuel used. Last week been driving a BLM to work and  rm40 can get  about 170 km.    From 2 bar left, pump rm40 to reach 5bars only. The 5th bar took pretty long to drop down (70km) , the 4th bar can tahan less than 55km  only. The 3rd bar is worse.... about 45km I think.

Out of all the gauges, fuel level gauge is 1 of the most unpredictable gauge. It's float weight NOT calibrated, some car lighter, some heavier. My case is heavy, tend to give me illusion of petrol saving. When car is travelling, my fuel gauge doesn't go down. My 1st bar normally can last up to 80km before it lesap. After I stop my engine, the float settled then it become 1 bar less.

Some lighter float like dares case, up hill, hilang 1 bar, downhill 1 bar extra, go flat road, back to normal again.

Really can't tell how many km before the alert indicator lite up.

FLX SV, just pass 10k service, using Petronas 95
Always pump RM50 when left one bar
Everyday go work around 70km return trip
If light footed (maintain 60-80km/h, rev around 2k to 2.3k), can get around 320km
If vroom vroom drive like mad all the way only around 260km heavy foot lettew

Always stuck in traffic jam? My FLX 1.3 CVT is quite equal for all bars. If i drive around city, worse is RM50 doing 280km. Smooth traffic can do 300+km. Try go SC to have a check. Because RM60 for 230km is very bad comparing to my friend's BLM auto which doing 300km for rm60.

don't rely on saga fuel level gauge.
light footed is not described as maintaining 60-80km/h, is how long the meter is traveling from 0km/h and so on.
even u maintain 60-80km/h, but if from 0km/h to 80km/h from stop is fast e.g 2-3 seconds rather than 20 seconds, it's considered heavy footed.
fyi, my fl when left 1 bar, actual full pump is around 28.57L = rm60 or 30L = rm63.
ur rm50 fuel pump is only 23.81L.
as a senior owner, you should encourage new owners having a fuelly acount, not calculate based on fuel meter gauge.

inb4 my 2 cents

I'm driving Saga FLX. After a while I felt the car became sluggish. Just install E-Drive and felt instant different. Will see how the FC next week.

I'm driving Saga FLX. After a while I felt the car became sluggish. Just install E-Drive and felt instant different. Will see how the FC next week.

Im driving Saga FLX 1.6 SE....still no going first 1k maintenance....it seems to me that fuel consumption is high....

using federal road...from full bar until one bar....from kerteh to melaka ,is it still consider normal ?

Well, Proton still worth something, as long as it is not Proton chasis + Campro engine. Campro + Mitsubishi engine still the best from my point of view. My Wira even stuck in heavy jams also can about 13km/l. And now my Inspira 1.8M also doing slightly better than 13km/l. But my friend's Preve CFE even with light foot also can't come close to 11km/l.

Thanks for the points, will look into it and put into practice. Having some FC issues too with my 4 years Saga BLM 1.3 Manual and was reading up if fuel brands play some role too in better FC and mileage 

I have been using a 1.3 flx since 2012 and fc is worst than my c200 if comparing engine size and performance.
C200 is 66 liter tank and flx is 40 liter tank.
C200 Full Tank is RM128 and FLX is RM78 (based on current price RON95)
C200 can get 450km and flx can get 280KM (both are city driving)
So i spent RM0.27 per km for flx and RM0.28 for C200 making the flx a whole lot more fuel hungry car than the c200.
This is what I am getting from the flx for the last 3 years up to last week when a proton service center mechanic ask me to change petrol.
All the while flx is using primax 95 and shell for the c200 (mostly on 97)
This is my conversation with him (from what I can recall after 2 weeks ago):

Mechanic: En. pakai minyak apa? Petronas ke?
Me: Yes petronas primax 95
Mechanic: En, jangan pakai minyak petronas kat flx all the time.
Me: Kenapa dengan petronas? Engine is more silent than other petrol.
Mechanic: Petronas ni lebih water contents dlm chemical mixture. Petrol fuel have expiry dates. Petronas bila expired, will breakdown into bacteria and sink at the bottom on the big tank (35000 liters) at petrol station. Bila new petrol comes for refill, petrol station biasanya tambah masuk je dalam tangki. jarang la petrol station ni clean the tank. jadi old bacteria will infect the new petrol.
Me (already pening with his explanation): Apa impact kat flx?
Mechanic: Oh, flx ni ada cvt and cvt sensors tu kat dalam engine (pointing to me where the sensors are, somewhere where the spark plugs goes in). Lama-lama pakai petronas or minyak apa2, sensors tu kotor cause of the high water contents. Bila kotor, cvt cannot read realtime petrol needed by engines. So cvt akan request more petrol than needed.
Me: (OOO thats news to me and sound logical too) Boleh tengok CVT reading?
Mechanic: See, CVT should be moving between 8-700mW pressure, kete en ni 412mW average. quite high.
Me: habis camne, x boleh reset ke? (haha belajar kat KL Proton Center - reset CVT if got FC issue)
Mechanic: Boleh tapi tak sampai seminggu sama jugak nanti.

(Ever wonder why your car after service has better fc but back to bad fc after a couple of week)

Me: So how to improve fc?
Mechanic: Senang je, drive kete en ni sampai lampu minyak warning keluar, pastu ISI CALTEX TECHRON?
Me: 95 ke 97?
Mechanic: 95 je
Me: Kenapa caltex?
Mechanic: TECHRON additive ni power en. Boleh clean apa-apa residue dlm engine. Pakai je full tank 2-3 times then sure ada improvement.
Me: Ok, saya cuba and tengok la. Kalu xde caltex, whats the next best petrol?
Mechanic: Petron additives is good too. En try caltex tapi kalau dah xde, pakai petron. Minyak lain sama je macam petronas.
Me: Ok, terima kasih bye and thank you

So he reset the CVT, and off I go to drive back to KL and did not refill (already have half tank) and when left one bar, start looking for Caltex on NKVE, lol, no Caltex anywhere. So i add another RM20 Primax la, reach home and asks my son to NOT refill until empty/warning. Apparently Caltex in KL is also very scarce but manage to fill a tank full of caltex in Setiawangsa. Then another tank after a week and off driving the car to Tapah with full tank of caltex.

Surprise surprise, I drove to Tapah and back to KL with full tank and still has 2 bars left. For the 1st time my FLX hit 420KM before refuel. Extra 120km after 3 years of driving. wow. before this, long distance, short, city always get 280-300 max.

So here I am sharing the story and after googling, found out that Caltex Techron is a very powerful and proven additives and exclusive to Caltex only. Please google for more info.

The mechanic didn't know that since 2014 Caltex has Techron Plus Concentrated that you can buy and put in your empty tank and mix with other petrol and clean your engine with a bottle of techron and full tank of petrol in your car. Now I am changing my C200 to caltex as well.

Wow, long story short, test your car with caltex techron plus for faster result cause if use just caltex 95, u need at least 2-3 full tanks to clean your dirty valves or sensors in the engine and on top of not easy to find caltex in KL. Maybe if u work in KLCC, there;s one near Tabung Haji or Setiawangsa. From google, it says u need to fill in techron plus every 5000km.
Good luck

I have been using a 1.3 flx since 2012 and fc is worst than my c200 if comparing engine size and performance.
C200 is 66 liter tank and flx is 40 liter tank.
C200 Full Tank is RM128 and FLX is RM78 (based on current price RON95)
C200 can get 450km and flx can get 280KM (both are city driving)
So i spent RM0.27 per km for flx and RM0.28 for C200 making the flx a whole lot more fuel hungry car than the c200.
This is what I am getting from the flx for the last 3 years up to last week when a proton service center mechanic ask me to change petrol.
All the while flx is using primax 95 and shell for the c200 (mostly on 97)
This is my conversation with him (from what I can recall after 2 weeks ago):

Mechanic: En. pakai minyak apa? Petronas ke?
Me: Yes petronas primax 95
Mechanic: En, jangan pakai minyak petronas kat flx all the time.
Me: Kenapa dengan petronas? Engine is more silent than other petrol.
Mechanic: Petronas ni lebih water contents dlm chemical mixture. Petrol fuel have expiry dates. Petronas bila expired, will breakdown into bacteria and sink at the bottom on the big tank (35000 liters) at petrol station. Bila new petrol comes for refill, petrol station biasanya tambah masuk je dalam tangki. jarang la petrol station ni clean the tank. jadi old bacteria will infect the new petrol.
Me (already pening with his explanation): Apa impact kat flx?
Mechanic: Oh, flx ni ada cvt and cvt sensors tu kat dalam engine (pointing to me where the sensors are, somewhere where the spark plugs goes in). Lama-lama pakai petronas or minyak apa2, sensors tu kotor cause of the high water contents. Bila kotor, cvt cannot read realtime petrol needed by engines. So cvt akan request more petrol than needed.
Me: (OOO thats news to me and sound logical too) Boleh tengok CVT reading?
Mechanic: See, CVT should be moving between 8-700mW pressure, kete en ni 412mW average. quite high.
Me: habis camne, x boleh reset ke? (haha belajar kat KL Proton Center - reset CVT if got FC issue)
Mechanic: Boleh tapi tak sampai seminggu sama jugak nanti.

(Ever wonder why your car after service has better fc but back to bad fc after a couple of week)

Me: So how to improve fc?
Mechanic: Senang je, drive kete en ni sampai lampu minyak warning keluar, pastu ISI CALTEX TECHRON?
Me: 95 ke 97?
Mechanic: 95 je
Me: Kenapa caltex?
Mechanic: TECHRON additive ni power en. Boleh clean apa-apa residue dlm engine. Pakai je full tank 2-3 times then sure ada improvement.
Me: Ok, saya cuba and tengok la. Kalu xde caltex, whats the next best petrol?
Mechanic: Petron additives is good too. En try caltex tapi kalau dah xde, pakai petron. Minyak lain sama je macam petronas.
Me: Ok, terima kasih bye and thank you

So he reset the CVT, and off I go to drive back to KL and did not refill (already have half tank) and when left one bar, start looking for Caltex on NKVE, lol, no Caltex anywhere. So i add another RM20 Primax la, reach home and asks my son to NOT refill until empty/warning. Apparently Caltex in KL is also very scarce but manage to fill a tank full of caltex in Setiawangsa. Then another tank after a week and off driving the car to Tapah with full tank of caltex.

Surprise surprise, I drove to Tapah and back to KL with full tank and still has 2 bars left. For the 1st time my FLX hit 420KM before refuel. Extra 120km after 3 years of driving. wow. before this, long distance, short, city always get 280-300 max.

So here I am sharing the story and after googling, found out that Caltex Techron is a very powerful and proven additives and exclusive to Caltex only. Please google for more info.

The mechanic didn't know that since 2014 Caltex has Techron Plus Concentrated that you can buy and put in your empty tank and mix with other petrol and clean your engine with a bottle of techron and full tank of petrol in your car. Now I am changing my C200 to caltex as well.

Wow, long story short, test your car with caltex techron plus for faster result cause if use just caltex 95, u need at least 2-3 full tanks to clean your dirty valves or sensors in the engine and on top of not easy to find caltex in KL. Maybe if u work in KLCC, there;s one near Tabung Haji or Setiawangsa. From google, it says u need to fill in techron plus every 5000km.
Good luck

Saga SV / FLX user~ mind share ur saga fuel consumption and which brand of petrol u r using? =)
I start wit my first
Caltex 95
70% city drive 30% highway
full tank 250-270 km =)

I have been using a 1.3 flx since 2012 and fc is worst than my c200 if comparing engine size and performance.
C200 is 66 liter tank and flx is 40 liter tank.
C200 Full Tank is RM128 and FLX is RM78 (based on current price RON95)
C200 can get 450km and flx can get 280KM (both are city driving)
So i spent RM0.27 per km for flx and RM0.28 for C200 making the flx a whole lot more fuel hungry car than the c200.
This is what I am getting from the flx for the last 3 years up to last week when a proton service center mechanic ask me to change petrol.
All the while flx is using primax 95 and shell for the c200 (mostly on 97)
This is my conversation with him (from what I can recall after 2 weeks ago):

Mechanic: En. pakai minyak apa? Petronas ke?
Me: Yes petronas primax 95
Mechanic: En, jangan pakai minyak petronas kat flx all the time.
Me: Kenapa dengan petronas? Engine is more silent than other petrol.
Mechanic: Petronas ni lebih water contents dlm chemical mixture. Petrol fuel have expiry dates. Petronas bila expired, will breakdown into bacteria and sink at the bottom on the big tank (35000 liters) at petrol station. Bila new petrol comes for refill, petrol station biasanya tambah masuk je dalam tangki. jarang la petrol station ni clean the tank. jadi old bacteria will infect the new petrol.
Me (already pening with his explanation): Apa impact kat flx?
Mechanic: Oh, flx ni ada cvt and cvt sensors tu kat dalam engine (pointing to me where the sensors are, somewhere where the spark plugs goes in). Lama-lama pakai petronas or minyak apa2, sensors tu kotor cause of the high water contents. Bila kotor, cvt cannot read realtime petrol needed by engines. So cvt akan request more petrol than needed.
Me: (OOO thats news to me and sound logical too) Boleh tengok CVT reading?
Mechanic: See, CVT should be moving between 8-700mW pressure, kete en ni 412mW average. quite high.
Me: habis camne, x boleh reset ke? (haha belajar kat KL Proton Center - reset CVT if got FC issue)
Mechanic: Boleh tapi tak sampai seminggu sama jugak nanti.

(Ever wonder why your car after service has better fc but back to bad fc after a couple of week)

Me: So how to improve fc?
Mechanic: Senang je, drive kete en ni sampai lampu minyak warning keluar, pastu ISI CALTEX TECHRON?
Me: 95 ke 97?
Mechanic: 95 je
Me: Kenapa caltex?
Mechanic: TECHRON additive ni power en. Boleh clean apa-apa residue dlm engine. Pakai je full tank 2-3 times then sure ada improvement.
Me: Ok, saya cuba and tengok la. Kalu xde caltex, whats the next best petrol?
Mechanic: Petron additives is good too. En try caltex tapi kalau dah xde, pakai petron. Minyak lain sama je macam petronas.
Me: Ok, terima kasih bye and thank you

So he reset the CVT, and off I go to drive back to KL and did not refill (already have half tank) and when left one bar, start looking for Caltex on NKVE, lol, no Caltex anywhere. So i add another RM20 Primax la, reach home and asks my son to NOT refill until empty/warning. Apparently Caltex in KL is also very scarce but manage to fill a tank full of caltex in Setiawangsa. Then another tank after a week and off driving the car to Tapah with full tank of caltex.

Surprise surprise, I drove to Tapah and back to KL with full tank and still has 2 bars left. For the 1st time my FLX hit 420KM before refuel. Extra 120km after 3 years of driving. wow. before this, long distance, short, city always get 280-300 max.

So here I am sharing the story and after googling, found out that Caltex Techron is a very powerful and proven additives and exclusive to Caltex only. Please google for more info.

The mechanic didn't know that since 2014 Caltex has Techron Plus Concentrated that you can buy and put in your empty tank and mix with other petrol and clean your engine with a bottle of techron and full tank of petrol in your car. Now I am changing my C200 to caltex as well.

Wow, long story short, test your car with caltex techron plus for faster result cause if use just caltex 95, u need at least 2-3 full tanks to clean your dirty valves or sensors in the engine and on top of not easy to find caltex in KL. Maybe if u work in KLCC, there;s one near Tabung Haji or Setiawangsa. From google, it says u need to fill in techron plus every 5000km.
Good luck

Want Jimat, get a hybrid or wait for Saga Hybrid.  Fill up RM70 = 700 to 800km.  Doesn't matter you ram the car or not.

I have been using a 1.3 flx since 2012 and fc is worst than my c200 if comparing engine size and performance.
C200 is 66 liter tank and flx is 40 liter tank.
C200 Full Tank is RM128 and FLX is RM78 (based on current price RON95)
C200 can get 450km and flx can get 280KM (both are city driving)
So i spent RM0.27 per km for flx and RM0.28 for C200 making the flx a whole lot more fuel hungry car than the c200.
This is what I am getting from the flx for the last 3 years up to last week when a proton service center mechanic ask me to change petrol.
All the while flx is using primax 95 and shell for the c200 (mostly on 97)
This is my conversation with him (from what I can recall after 2 weeks ago):

Mechanic: En. pakai minyak apa? Petronas ke?
Me: Yes petronas primax 95
Mechanic: En, jangan pakai minyak petronas kat flx all the time.
Me: Kenapa dengan petronas? Engine is more silent than other petrol.
Mechanic: Petronas ni lebih water contents dlm chemical mixture. Petrol fuel have expiry dates. Petronas bila expired, will breakdown into bacteria and sink at the bottom on the big tank (35000 liters) at petrol station. Bila new petrol comes for refill, petrol station biasanya tambah masuk je dalam tangki. jarang la petrol station ni clean the tank. jadi old bacteria will infect the new petrol.
Me (already pening with his explanation): Apa impact kat flx?
Mechanic: Oh, flx ni ada cvt and cvt sensors tu kat dalam engine (pointing to me where the sensors are, somewhere where the spark plugs goes in). Lama-lama pakai petronas or minyak apa2, sensors tu kotor cause of the high water contents. Bila kotor, cvt cannot read realtime petrol needed by engines. So cvt akan request more petrol than needed.
Me: (OOO thats news to me and sound logical too) Boleh tengok CVT reading?
Mechanic: See, CVT should be moving between 8-700mW pressure, kete en ni 412mW average. quite high.
Me: habis camne, x boleh reset ke? (haha belajar kat KL Proton Center - reset CVT if got FC issue)
Mechanic: Boleh tapi tak sampai seminggu sama jugak nanti.

(Ever wonder why your car after service has better fc but back to bad fc after a couple of week)

Me: So how to improve fc?
Mechanic: Senang je, drive kete en ni sampai lampu minyak warning keluar, pastu ISI CALTEX TECHRON?
Me: 95 ke 97?
Mechanic: 95 je
Me: Kenapa caltex?
Mechanic: TECHRON additive ni power en. Boleh clean apa-apa residue dlm engine. Pakai je full tank 2-3 times then sure ada improvement.
Me: Ok, saya cuba and tengok la. Kalu xde caltex, whats the next best petrol?
Mechanic: Petron additives is good too. En try caltex tapi kalau dah xde, pakai petron. Minyak lain sama je macam petronas.
Me: Ok, terima kasih bye and thank you

So he reset the CVT, and off I go to drive back to KL and did not refill (already have half tank) and when left one bar, start looking for Caltex on NKVE, lol, no Caltex anywhere. So i add another RM20 Primax la, reach home and asks my son to NOT refill until empty/warning. Apparently Caltex in KL is also very scarce but manage to fill a tank full of caltex in Setiawangsa. Then another tank after a week and off driving the car to Tapah with full tank of caltex.

Surprise surprise, I drove to Tapah and back to KL with full tank and still has 2 bars left. For the 1st time my FLX hit 420KM before refuel. Extra 120km after 3 years of driving. wow. before this, long distance, short, city always get 280-300 max.

So here I am sharing the story and after googling, found out that Caltex Techron is a very powerful and proven additives and exclusive to Caltex only. Please google for more info.

The mechanic didn't know that since 2014 Caltex has Techron Plus Concentrated that you can buy and put in your empty tank and mix with other petrol and clean your engine with a bottle of techron and full tank of petrol in your car. Now I am changing my C200 to caltex as well.

Wow, long story short, test your car with caltex techron plus for faster result cause if use just caltex 95, u need at least 2-3 full tanks to clean your dirty valves or sensors in the engine and on top of not easy to find caltex in KL. Maybe if u work in KLCC, there;s one near Tabung Haji or Setiawangsa. From google, it says u need to fill in techron plus every 5000km.
Good luck

I have been using a 1.3 flx since 2012 and fc is worst than my c200 if comparing engine size and performance.
C200 is 66 liter tank and flx is 40 liter tank.
C200 Full Tank is RM128 and FLX is RM78 (based on current price RON95)
C200 can get 450km and flx can get 280KM (both are city driving)
So i spent RM0.27 per km for flx and RM0.28 for C200 making the flx a whole lot more fuel hungry car than the c200.
This is what I am getting from the flx for the last 3 years up to last week when a proton service center mechanic ask me to change petrol.
All the while flx is using primax 95 and shell for the c200 (mostly on 97)
This is my conversation with him (from what I can recall after 2 weeks ago):

Mechanic: En. pakai minyak apa? Petronas ke?
Me: Yes petronas primax 95
Mechanic: En, jangan pakai minyak petronas kat flx all the time.
Me: Kenapa dengan petronas? Engine is more silent than other petrol.
Mechanic: Petronas ni lebih water contents dlm chemical mixture. Petrol fuel have expiry dates. Petronas bila expired, will breakdown into bacteria and sink at the bottom on the big tank (35000 liters) at petrol station. Bila new petrol comes for refill, petrol station biasanya tambah masuk je dalam tangki. jarang la petrol station ni clean the tank. jadi old bacteria will infect the new petrol.
Me (already pening with his explanation): Apa impact kat flx?
Mechanic: Oh, flx ni ada cvt and cvt sensors tu kat dalam engine (pointing to me where the sensors are, somewhere where the spark plugs goes in). Lama-lama pakai petronas or minyak apa2, sensors tu kotor cause of the high water contents. Bila kotor, cvt cannot read realtime petrol needed by engines. So cvt akan request more petrol than needed.
Me: (OOO thats news to me and sound logical too) Boleh tengok CVT reading?
Mechanic: See, CVT should be moving between 8-700mW pressure, kete en ni 412mW average. quite high.
Me: habis camne, x boleh reset ke? (haha belajar kat KL Proton Center - reset CVT if got FC issue)
Mechanic: Boleh tapi tak sampai seminggu sama jugak nanti.

(Ever wonder why your car after service has better fc but back to bad fc after a couple of week)

Me: So how to improve fc?
Mechanic: Senang je, drive kete en ni sampai lampu minyak warning keluar, pastu ISI CALTEX TECHRON?
Me: 95 ke 97?
Mechanic: 95 je
Me: Kenapa caltex?
Mechanic: TECHRON additive ni power en. Boleh clean apa-apa residue dlm engine. Pakai je full tank 2-3 times then sure ada improvement.
Me: Ok, saya cuba and tengok la. Kalu xde caltex, whats the next best petrol?
Mechanic: Petron additives is good too. En try caltex tapi kalau dah xde, pakai petron. Minyak lain sama je macam petronas.
Me: Ok, terima kasih bye and thank you

So he reset the CVT, and off I go to drive back to KL and did not refill (already have half tank) and when left one bar, start looking for Caltex on NKVE, lol, no Caltex anywhere. So i add another RM20 Primax la, reach home and asks my son to NOT refill until empty/warning. Apparently Caltex in KL is also very scarce but manage to fill a tank full of caltex in Setiawangsa. Then another tank after a week and off driving the car to Tapah with full tank of caltex.

Surprise surprise, I drove to Tapah and back to KL with full tank and still has 2 bars left. For the 1st time my FLX hit 420KM before refuel. Extra 120km after 3 years of driving. wow. before this, long distance, short, city always get 280-300 max.

So here I am sharing the story and after googling, found out that Caltex Techron is a very powerful and proven additives and exclusive to Caltex only. Please google for more info.

The mechanic didn't know that since 2014 Caltex has Techron Plus Concentrated that you can buy and put in your empty tank and mix with other petrol and clean your engine with a bottle of techron and full tank of petrol in your car. Now I am changing my C200 to caltex as well.

Wow, long story short, test your car with caltex techron plus for faster result cause if use just caltex 95, u need at least 2-3 full tanks to clean your dirty valves or sensors in the engine and on top of not easy to find caltex in KL. Maybe if u work in KLCC, there;s one near Tabung Haji or Setiawangsa. From google, it says u need to fill in techron plus every 5000km.
Good luck