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 LYN Cycling V9, Racing/Road bikes- Ironman Malaysia 2014

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butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 05:02 PM

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looking back at this....


it looks so gay....
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wenloong78
post Oct 14 2013, 06:22 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Oct 14 2013, 12:55 AM)
it's the standard in decimal lar.... it's not counted...
ok, look at it this way.... which point of the high end alloy are they looking at which claimed to perform better than low end carbon? stiffness wise.. i can say it might be sitting on the fence but the benefit of the doubt is given to the carbon rigs to be stiffer... comfort wise, carbon has the ability to absord road buzz better given it is properly designed... so, with doubts that it's not... it could just only be as worst as the alloy frames are...

and as i said earlier... depending on whether you look to own this roadie long term or short.. you have to take into the equation that alloy fatigues over time while carbon is stated to almost or never have any fatigue issues... this is hard to gauge as it is stuff that takes years to tell...

frankly... the e5 is the top tier in alloy and given it's prepped to use 30mm axles is an excellent platform as an alloy performance bike and especially one to be used in crit racing like the caad10... will it outmatch the lower ranged carbon like attack??? that is hard to tell (for me if i were to tell you the truth, it's all assumptions at this point) without asking someone who actually owns it...

pardon me for focusing on the swift because this is the only so called cheap carbon frame that i have been researching on recently for a friend of mine... the attack frame if swift is straight forward with this uses the T700s Toray carbon which i doubt is purely T700s construction and it should have been mixed with other stuff... but primarily T700s

the RS-1 on the other hand that comes out of the same mold as their top tier u-vox Ti uses a slightly higher grade T700s and T800s mixture....looking at the spec sheets from toray

T700s
http://www.toraycfa.com/pdfs/T700SDataSheet.pdf

T800s
http://www.toraycfa.com/pdfs/T800SDataSheet.pdf

it shows the T800 carbon cloth is about 13% stiffer than the T700s and about 20% odd stronger...the only thing that is better is the Ti which uses T1000 carbon which is the same stiffness as the T800 but stronger...

http://www.toraycfa.com/pdfs/T1000GDataSheet.pdf

i am no expert in carbon but if my understanding is right.. the RS-1 actually makes quite a balanced purchase for it's price compared to attack where it should theoretically be stiffer and it still has the features from the top tier Ti like the seat stays and brake bridge, and box section head tube...

as for boardman... hard for me to tell cause they dun expose much technical information on it and you can only rely on reviewers and feedback from owners...

and just to clarify all this, i have never ridden any one of them and i am just speculating this things based on paper... best if you can sneak a ride from an actual owner and try to feel the difference yourself...

not trying to sell the swift to you.. but there is always something better waiting outside...
it's a secret...
boardman of course if you can afford it and without considering the support factor.... the only worry as i say is that the dealer gets blown off and then you find trouble with something related to the frame...

spez will be here to stay for long...
*
some says the allez E5 perform better than low end carbon in term of stiffness and power transfer, so to them, either go for high end alloy (allez E5 or Caad 10, which is only being sold in complete bike) or high end carbon which is in 5 digits figure (or 9999), no point getting a low end carbon frame just because of wanting to get carbon frame. sweat.gif sweat.gif

u r right, dealership is another factor need to consider when purchasing less common brand...... rclxub.gif rclxub.gif
butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 06:29 PM

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QUOTE(wenloong78 @ Oct 14 2013, 06:22 PM)
some says the allez E5 perform better than low end carbon in term of stiffness and power transfer, so to them, either go for high end alloy (allez E5 or Caad 10, which is only being sold in complete bike) or high end carbon which is in 5 digits figure (or 9999), no point getting a low end carbon frame just because of wanting to get carbon frame.  sweat.gif  sweat.gif

u r right, dealership is another factor need to consider when purchasing less common brand...... rclxub.gif  rclxub.gif
*
which leads back to my question.... what is defined as perform better? and how is an alloy frame performance quantified...

getting a carbon frame for the sake of carbon is of course not a good thing to do... weight and performance aside.. safety is actually a very big worry as carbon can be very fragile if layed up wrongly....

so, for people who really want "better performance" out of a bike... spend some time to first, understand some composites basics... it is not point saying what is better than what when things are not quantifiable....

i mean, you can't just define everything below a 5 digit figure as a low end frame... if that is the case... even miao's SL3 would be a cheap ass useless bike that is not even worth comparing with the allez e5....the e5 is good... but with fatigue life in factor, you have to think longer to see how long will the goodness last on an alloy frame...

and if you can't feel the difference when a frame has fatigued... then you won't feel a difference whether it is low, mid or high end carbon frames... frankly to say... which totally overturns what is being discussed because at the end, one will just be buying for the sake of buying better stuff...

This post has been edited by butthead: Oct 14 2013, 06:37 PM
butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 07:01 PM

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ayam hungwee

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miaopurr
post Oct 14 2013, 07:23 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Oct 14 2013, 07:01 PM)
ayam hungwee

user posted image
*
wow she nom nom a lot!
butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 07:34 PM

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i like chicks who can eat... what's the fun when you get a chick that dun eat and still get fat on you...
butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 07:38 PM

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dinner... here i come...
miaopurr
post Oct 14 2013, 07:42 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Oct 14 2013, 07:34 PM)
i like chicks who can eat... what's the fun when you get a chick that dun eat and still get fat on you...
*
i like some fat @ appropriate places
KTCY
post Oct 14 2013, 08:52 PM

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QUOTE(butthead @ Oct 14 2013, 04:40 PM)
mad.gif  vmad.gif  mad.gif  vmad.gif  mad.gif
*
rclxs0.gif
xEpicFailGuy
post Oct 14 2013, 09:34 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Oct 14 2013, 07:42 PM)
i like some fat @ appropriate places
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Which part? brows.gif
butthead
post Oct 14 2013, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Oct 14 2013, 07:42 PM)
i like some fat @ appropriate places
*
appropriate places that are not appropriate to mention
Mac Wai
post Oct 14 2013, 11:14 PM

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Any interesting ride tomorrow morning like KKB to Fraser Hill, Klang BKT?
minizian
post Oct 14 2013, 11:23 PM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Oct 14 2013, 12:32 AM)
here's a solution for ur bb30/gxp  rclxub.gif

http://wheelsmfg.com/products/bottom-brack...m-brackets.html

tcr slr... proprietary seatpost. me no like.

why do u prefer pf86 rather than bb30? pf86 does not require tolerance as stringent as bb30. and what does that tell you?
*
I am interested in PF86 or english thread cos my sram red crankset is GXP version. I would like to reuse what i have as i am not keen to spend 1k plus for bb30 version. Not to mention heard about horror story about creaking in bb30 equiped bike. That why i am looking for bike that have normal english thread or pf86.

QUOTE(butthead @ Oct 14 2013, 01:01 AM)
is there still frames that runs bb30... most have moved onto pf already lar i think...

and if pf86 is already being considered? why not pf30 and make sure of stiffer and lighter cranks? but, it's pointless to say this cos it's dictated by the frame that one likes...
*
Caad 10 and Allez e5 still using bb30. Not PF30 as the spec written.

So for 5k budget should i get an alu bike like caad10/tcr slr or i better off with known carbon frames?
miaopurr
post Oct 14 2013, 11:36 PM

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QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:23 PM)
I am interested in PF86 or english thread cos my sram red crankset is GXP version. I would like to reuse what i have as  i am not keen to spend 1k plus for bb30 version. Not to mention heard about horror story about creaking in bb30 equiped bike. That why i am looking for bike that have normal english thread or pf86.
Caad 10 and Allez e5 still using bb30. Not PF30 as the spec written.

So for 5k budget should i get an alu bike like caad10/tcr slr or i better off with known carbon frames?
*
a good system should be built from a good base, then only u will have a trouble free application. what i'm trying to say is, bb30 frame is built around a stringent requirement, to ensure trouble free application. that means the frame shall be built to a high standard in order to receive a precise dimensioned bb30.

minimal tolerance, minimal creaking. that's what the tech write-ups say.

what pf86 does is, it accepts a frame built with less than precise manufacturing standard. i'm not sure how it does, maybe nylon cups to take up imperfections in the bb shell.

ultimately, i've never used any pressfit bbs. i've always used iso threaded. maybe i'm wrong about the pf86. maybe between bb30 vs pf86, u'd better be off with the latter.

as for the frame, maybe cannondale make their bikes to precise standard, since bb30 came from them. or maybe u should go with the giant, since u prefer pf86. either way, both are pressfits and they will creak.
minizian
post Oct 14 2013, 11:46 PM

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Choices for RM5k bike are quite hard to satisfy my need for proper sized second racing bike sad.gif Is there current racingbike still use threarded bb other my Ti bike?

This post has been edited by minizian: Oct 14 2013, 11:47 PM
miaopurr
post Oct 14 2013, 11:53 PM

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QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:46 PM)
Choices for RM5k bike are quite hard to satisfy my need for proper sized second racing bike sad.gif Is there current racingbike still use threarded bb other my Ti bike?
*
read this over a few times and really understand it.

http://www.bikeradar.com/road/gear/article...-brackets-38220

like it or not, we can say goodbye to major brands with threaded bb. so now, what to do with the pressfits. the article can guide u. and most important, get a reliable mechanic to prep the bb/frame

This post has been edited by miaopurr: Oct 14 2013, 11:57 PM
butthead
post Oct 15 2013, 03:19 AM

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QUOTE(Mac Wai @ Oct 14 2013, 11:14 PM)
Any interesting ride tomorrow morning like KKB to Fraser Hill, Klang BKT?
*
me...me....me....

klang bkt, but not the riding part
miaopurr
post Oct 15 2013, 03:49 AM

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airport, n then recovery nap. minus the riding part prior
butthead
post Oct 15 2013, 04:28 AM

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QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:23 PM)
I am interested in PF86 or english thread cos my sram red crankset is GXP version. I would like to reuse what i have as  i am not keen to spend 1k plus for bb30 version. Not to mention heard about horror story about creaking in bb30 equiped bike. That why i am looking for bike that have normal english thread or pf86.
Caad 10 and Allez e5 still using bb30. Not PF30 as the spec written.
user posted image

if it's creaking problem, you are looking for any form of threaded BB.... not any form of pressed-in bearing BB systems... and technically... threaded BB creaks as well if you are not lucky...

if it's a re-usability problem, it's an adapter problem and adapters do not costs RM1k...

CAAD10 and E5 is concentrated on using a stiffer and lighter 30mm axle because they want to differentiate those frames from conventional alloy ones which they never made to accept the new axles thus making those frames the premium alloy frames... you are considering it because it is better than a standard alloy frame right? not just because it is all dressed up with some fancy lingo...

QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:23 PM)
Caad 10 and Allez e5 still using bb30. Not PF30 as the spec written.
why CAAD10 and E5 is not using pressfit? hell, i can't answer you accurately but from my second guessing...

1) alloy frames already require machining in the first place (whether pressed in or threaded BB), it isn't any harder to just machine it with tighter tolerances
2) no one is ever going to decide that they want to make their life more complicated (not even me) by putting in a carbon BB shell into an alloy frame

i can however answer you why a carbon frame does not want a conventional pressed-in BB...

1) it is not possible to machine threads onto a carbon BB shell, thus requiring an alloy sleeve molded to the frame
1.1) if an alloy sleeve is molded to the frame, why not make it a threaded sleeve so it can accept conventional cranks?
1.1.1) because no one wants a 24mm axle anymore
1.1.2) and making a shell to fit a 24mm axle is making the shell smaller thus making the entire bottom bracket area smaller and results in a less stiffer frame (technically, yes the bb shell can still be made larger or as large as 30mm axle BB area by wrapping it with more carbon which in turns increases costs and weight...a large bore filled by nothing equals lesser weight)
1.2) molding an alloy sleeve to the frame obviously increases weight (which no one wants)
1.3) machining a sleeve to be accurately bored out to fit BB30 without problems increases costs (which again no one wants)

2) it is not possible or it might be very hard to make full carbon BB (no sleeves) to be exactly 42mm ID on both sides
2.1) possibility of cracking or deforming the carbon shell if you press in something as hard as a metal BB, pressfit cups will deform around the shell or any shell imperfections

in short and more layman terms....

conventional pressed-in
* trying to jam a steel tube down a lemang tube hoping it slides in nicely or without damaging the lemang tube in the first place and still fits without wiggling and jiggling around

press-fit system is
* jamming a playdoh down a lemang tube which is no problem because the playdoh takes the shape of a lemang tube whether it is square, round, diamond shaped or triangular shaped...

why press-fit exists... because some ding dong realized it is too much of a hassle to file and sand down the internals of a lemang tube so that the steel tube can slide in without too much problems and yet still fit snugly...

so, they decided to find a slightly larger lemang tube, playdoh the god damn steel tube and jam it down the larger lemang tube so the playdoh can be the gap filler while the steel tube still slides in...

QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:23 PM)
So for 5k budget should i get an alu bike like caad10/tcr slr or i better off with known carbon frames?
*
QUOTE(minizian @ Oct 14 2013, 11:46 PM)
Choices for RM5k bike are quite hard to satisfy my need for proper sized second racing bike sad.gif Is there current racingbike still use threarded bb other my Ti bike?
*
first of all, sort out your priorities....

why buy the best frame (whether it is alloy vs carbon or 30mm vs 24mm axles) there is and find a reason to downgrade it??? it's like buying a Ferrari and you just decided to just put in an 989cc engine from Perodua just because the V8 is not economical...

This post has been edited by butthead: Oct 15 2013, 04:33 AM
butthead
post Oct 15 2013, 04:29 AM

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QUOTE(miaopurr @ Oct 15 2013, 03:49 AM)
airport, n then recovery nap. minus the riding part prior
*
why not you just nap at the airport...

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