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 The Shrimp Thing, All About Shrimp - Neocaridina & Others

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post Oct 2 2013, 01:05 AM, updated 9y ago

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This thread is dedicated to all Shrimp lover. The most commonly sold freshwater dwarf shrimp in local fish shop are those from the Neocaridina and Caridina family/genus.
Neocaridina type consist of the most common Cherry shrimp, Fire red, Yellow, Blue Jelly, Palmata etc.
Caridina type consist of the Crystal Red/Black shrimp, Green shrimp, Malaya, Sulawesi shrimp, Tiger shrimp etc.


You can house shrimp from different genus in one tank but not shrimp from the same genus else interbreed will occur, result in inferior color especially
in the neocaridina genus.
Sometimes, but not always shrimps with the same genus name will interbreed. example Malaya are known will not interbreed with any shrimp in the hobby.
Feel Free to ask/answer questions , share knowledge and tank picture with us here.

Below is one of my previous tank that house both Neocaridina (Fire Red) and Caridina (Crystal Red Shrimp).
After re scape found 200-300++ fire red in the moss.


user posted image

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 5 2013, 02:07 AM


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post Oct 2 2013, 01:06 AM

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Shrimp Water Paramaters Requirement:
These data just act as a basic references as some shrimps can adapt to different water parameters.
Credit goes to shrimpkeeping.com , full list here ->http://shrimpkeeping.com/water-params/

user posted image

user posted image

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 6 2013, 12:42 AM
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:06 AM

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Shrimp Tank setup:

1) Basic shrimp tank setup using shirui sand as substrate:
user posted image

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 6 2013, 12:40 AM
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:06 AM

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A simple guide in making for your shrimp some Boiled Organic Spinach.

user posted image

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 12 2013, 06:12 PM
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:07 AM

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Pest / Bug you may encounter In Shrimp Tank

Credit Source: www.plantedtank.net


1) Planaria, flatworms (Dangerous - should be eliminated asap)

user posted image
Size: 0,3 - 1 cm, 0.1 - 3/8 inches

Non-parasitic flatworms. Crossed-eyed grossness, just pure yucky! The only small creature I dislike (I get shivers down my spine even thinking about them). If you split it, it will regenerate and you will end up having 2 planaria. There seems to be several different colours in the common ones found in aquariums, transparent, white, brown and red. There's actually nothing really horrible about them, but they can bother small shrimp and snails and might eat fish/snail eggs.

They love shrimp pellets, pieces of meat, dead fish/shrimp and they will also eat small live creatures if they can catch them. They move on the surfaces, even under the water surface and are most active by night. If disturbed, they will retract themselves (shorter and wider), let go and drop down to the bottom.


2) Hydra (Dangerous esp to Shrimplet/fish fry- should be eliminated asap)

user posted image
Size: 0,3 - 1,5 cm, 0.1 - 1/2 inches

Hydra are beautiful, but a wee bit annoying creatures. They spend their life attached to surfaces (plants, glass, filter, decoration), they can move a bit, but usually don't have the need to do that. If disturbed, they will retract their tentacles and body to small buds. They catch small creatures (copepods, Daphnia etc.) with their tentacles which can sting, making it easier for them to haul the pray in to their mouth opening. They pose no threat to adult fish, shrimp or snails (might cause some irritation if they touch the Hydra), but newborn fish and shrimp fry are in danger.

Control - (Use at your own risk) Attach a wire to each pole of a 9 volt battery. Place the ends of the wires into the tank water, as far apart as possible. If the setup is working correctly, a fine stream of bubbles should be seen from one of the wires. The Hydra will start falling after about 20 minutes. The treatment should go no longer than 3 hours, keeping an eye on conditions the whole time. A daily 50% water change for 3 days is recommended since Copper leaches into the tank via one of the wires.

3) Dragonfly (Dangerous - should be eliminated asap)
user posted image

4) Damselfly (Dangerous - should be eliminated asap)
user posted image
They use these like spring-loaded catapults to capture their prey at lighting speeds...looks kinda like an arm with mean jaws on the end and the whole contraption is tucked in nicely waiting to pounce...pretty cool...

Dragonfly and damselfly nymphs look rather similar... the main difference is that dragonfly nymphs do not have external gills...while damselfly nymphs do...
So after you look at the mouthpart to determind that it is one of these.. check to see if you can find external gills at the end of the abdomen... if you can.. then its a damselfly nymph..if not, then its a dragonfly nymph..

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 12 2013, 07:04 PM
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:07 AM

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Reserved***Shrimp tank substrate
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:08 AM

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Reserved***Shrimp tank equipment
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post Oct 2 2013, 01:14 AM

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Reserved***Shrimp Acclimating & Food
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post Oct 2 2013, 03:49 AM

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Reserved******Shrimp Disease

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 5 2013, 02:08 AM
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post Oct 2 2013, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(lily64my @ Oct 2 2013, 12:34 PM)
Oh wow...nice moss.....what is under the moss?
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Under those moss are driftwood branches, those moss long gone after i re-scape into open concept, as you can see in the picture , shrimplets really
like to hide in those moss, after i clear out the tank, i discover i have 200++ fire red in there. That was 1.5 yrs ago.
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post Oct 2 2013, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(varialmctwist @ Oct 2 2013, 05:31 PM)
ya lorh..i need another 1ft tank probably for shrimps...hahaha..RCS is easier eh? what happened if my tank reach 30++? all die arh? hahah...
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30++ or 300++ ? i once keep 500++ Malaya in an 50cm 57L tank, no problem at all. It depend on your filtration power and provide more o2 when
shrimp population is high, o2 not only for the shrimps but also for the beneficial bacteria in the filter to utilize, healthy and stronger BB to handle the increased bio-load.

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 2 2013, 05:38 PM
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post Oct 2 2013, 05:51 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 2 2013, 05:40 PM)
Any alternatives that doesn't require an airpump?

They're too noisy (bubbly) and water splashes for the office environment.
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In fact, have, this , Provide O2 with no airpump. Can't find in malaysia, only in singapore. anyway know where to get in Malaysia, let me know.
Link here -> http://www.aquariumoxygenator.com/

This post has been edited by arrow: Oct 2 2013, 05:56 PM


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post Oct 3 2013, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(tzuen @ Oct 3 2013, 09:51 AM)
Wanted to know about it as well, the damn bugs. Currently quarantine container with shrimplets and the bugs. time to move in to bigger tank.
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QUOTE(youliang @ Oct 2 2013, 10:50 PM)
I'm officially launching war with the seed shrimps in my tank. really getting too many already. now manually filtering the "bugs" out  and they don't seem to be getting lesser, the next day, a lot back. lol.
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Can invest in this , won't total remove them but will reduce their number significantly
Gush Catch Pen > http://www.gush-aqua.com/product_v.php?g=1&c=0&p=20


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post Oct 3 2013, 02:20 PM

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QUOTE(youliang @ Oct 3 2013, 02:07 PM)
then how?  shocking.gif the only way is to restart the tank? rclxub.gif
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actually those seed shrimp they help in cleaning up diatoms and unfinished food in your tank,
the only bad thing about them is the ugly look.

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post Oct 4 2013, 12:14 AM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 3 2013, 04:26 PM)
Do you guys vacuum your gravel/substrate or just leave the shrimp poo to sink and decompose?
*
i do occasionally , it can be useful during new tank setup by vacuuming to release air bubble form soil.
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post Oct 4 2013, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 4 2013, 10:06 AM)
Do you guys leave the molts in your tank indefinitely or remove them after a while.
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leave them there , shrimp will eat them, no harm done.
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post Oct 4 2013, 11:53 AM

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QUOTE(-kytz- @ Oct 4 2013, 11:32 AM)
What a sad day. Woke up to find 4 dead Malayan shrimps in my tank, then only realized I forgot to switch on the air pump the night before cry.gif cry.gif
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Beside that. Anything you done to your tank? Co2 on 24hrs?
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post Oct 4 2013, 08:45 PM

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QUOTE(sniper on the roof @ Oct 4 2013, 02:05 PM)
Haiyah... I thought this time can have zero casualties when adding new shrimps but one just expired in front of my eyes. It was motionless between rocks for the whole morning then just fell sideways. Was barely alive when I picked it up.

So frustrating, I use drip method to acclimatize for almost 6 hour still like that. I even tested the difference between the water and its just like ~20 TDS different niah... other perimeters same. The bag water got even higher nitrate levels.
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6 hour is way too long. 1-2 is enough unless tds different too wide. For prolong acclimating consider supply o2 to the shrimp be acclimated.
The safer is get shrimp that are already 2 week been in the lfs tank. Any early casautly already occur. What left is mostly the strongest. However shrimp just be snapped too fast by keeper like us.

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post Oct 5 2013, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(lily64my @ Oct 5 2013, 08:02 PM)
Jealous! Gorgeously seductive fire red shrimp!...GT....want to try this out? shakehead.gif  sweat.gif  doh.gif  lol
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lily , go buy 200 , you will get the same effect, but those are temporary holding tank, you may not know how many are dead everyday before
it sold out at the LFS.

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post Oct 6 2013, 10:22 AM

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QUOTE(lily64my @ Oct 6 2013, 09:45 AM)
Aiya....now got to start 2 new tanks! Planning to give a nice home for blue velvet and yellow golden back as now their shrimplets are together with fire red too. Only have half bag of ADA soil! If buy another bag...got half bag remaining!  i have 1 tank 1ft and 1 tank 2ft..
Need to get soil..filter media..mineral rock mosses....lol..not fun...
I have one tank with orange soil and another with black. 1 bag remaining is black. Not sure which one i should get now?
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Dont use ADA soil , took ages to conquer. Use plain sand or shrimp soil.
For sand refer to my simple setup -> https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63573857

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