Alright, so to cut it short, since I'm tight on budget, I think stick to D3200 comparing to D5200. I Google around I found that most of them compare D3200 to the Canon 600D, so this question would be just like Asus vs Lenovo brand. One thing makes me choose D3200 is, I heard you guys said that, there is a Beginner mode? so is there a similar feature in 600D too?

So, another question is, instead of picking the right DSLR(body), I should learn more how to shoot good photo and invest on good lens, right?

Ps. What other extra accessories I should buy for beginner? extra battery? what lens I should pick for beginner?
normally seller free memory card & bag or not? what is the common price selling now for the D3200 and 600D?

Aww...

Now I shorten the pick list of either pick below:

1) Nikon D3100
(because of cheap selling price now due to tight budget, someone I'm beginner to learn DSLR)
2) Nikon D3200
(slightly better than D3100 and a lot of positive review among 3 here but I still affordable to top-up)
3) Canon 600D
(I like the way holding it and the physical button layout, and I have more friend using Canon brand DSLR, since I can borrow lens or advice from them) So headache...

silverfire sifu got girlfriend(s) using Canons?   

Please C&C... Still new into macro


Snail by Pro3363, on Flickr

Tralala~ Just like a pro! Mintak pencerahan dari segi equipment boleh, boss?

Boss, extension tube is for what purpose ehh, boss?

You guys are really willing to splash the cash for lenses. Usually you all buy brand new ones or used ones?

Went to KLPF earlier today and managed to get a chance to test a few lenses and body. Tested Sigma 18-35mm F1.8 and its really good i must say. Solid build quality with awesome optical performance. Got to try Sigma 35mm F1.4 aswell and wow this really the racunsssss

So anyways here's a related pic



Taken with 35mm F2D tough and yes i know pic is noisy, old camera mah

Once you tried the new sigma 35mm 1.4 for sure you feel like wanna change. well i did
She's okay what, i'd say one of the cutest today. too skinny also not nice la

Bro, takdak reply my question ke? 

What kind of lens is suitable for macro photography? Is there any special signs? Like if the lens has a constant focal length, it is a sign of a prime lens, this kind of signs?

Macro photography sounds very interesting indeed.

Here got so many sifus, why wanna trouble Uncle Google? 

So in other words, any primes can be considered macro lens if their apertures are big? Sounds easy enough... 

Elo bro, how close do you have to be with your target with 50 1.8 and et mounted on?

all si fu i wanna ask something is why today try take pic of my family member right i put P mode and take those pic bit dark
i try set iso to 1500-2000 also same ?

lol
i think put p mode just tune the iso only
i tune few times keep on fail
then change to potrait and landscape
take till nice nice ^^
o O exposure
learn a new thing ^^
like water right i put shutter setting i put 1/100 iso to 1000-2000
i set the pic wont too bright but.....
i go upload pic ^^

You might need teach him to use metering as well XD

I want to ask is a multi coated UV filter important??

I was told in the other day in some shop, that without that the sensor will be damaged.. also the UV coat on the lens will wore off easily.

Told by a sales person who claim himself 7 years experience in photo-shoot.

totally have no knowledge on UV filter.. any sifu can enlighten me?

full frame? 

Yeah, the Sigma is slightly sharper than the Nikon wide open but in terms of bokeh produced, some prefer Nikon's smoother rendition.

No idea on Canon's one though. If I'm not wrong, Canon's version came out first very long time ago. Mark II should be in the works. Same like their 24mm f/1.4.
The world's first macro zoom lens...



Though a very old lens design and not truly 1:1 lens, it's design truly put Nikon ahead at that time.

My partner has the MPE65... is very hard to use. hahah I only try it once

My friend has the 200mm...

learn to use the exposure compensation and metering mode. the default matrix metering will always "see" the whole scene and decide the exposure balance, and backlight scene will guarantee to be overexposed.

you can either +0.7 ~ +1.0 ev, or use center/spot metering where it'll only achieve balance exposure on the center portion, or the area within the spot if you choose in spot metering mode.

however, if you shoot backlight scene, you'll need to over expose the background, means you won't be able to see anything on the background if overexposed too much. alternatively, use a flash to "fill" or light up the subject, hence it's called "fill flash".

if want to shoot silky water trails, use slow shutter speed like 1/10 (usually 0.5 sec or longer), but will guarantee some blurred image cause not possible to achieve perfect sharpness due to handheld - people usually use tripod. if want to freeze the water movement, need to use fast shutter speed - use S mode, set the shutter speed you want, and let the camera do the rest...

Back then I used Kenko (also known as Hoya) single coat on my 18-105, getting shit load of flare contributed by filter as compared to Hoya HD/B+W XS-Pro/B+W XS-Pro Nano at the moment.

My view is, either you go commando, or get a quality filter.