Sorry for double post, slow internet

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 13 2013, 10:15 PM

lol, no worries, if you don't want the Raynox, can always sell to me haha, as long as its not damaged haha
I'm sure you will love macro, it really opens up a new world

Nice photos~
I love shot #2
And is it me or the 3rd shot looked like someone peeing with 3 4 birds

Thank you for the praise and encouragement bro, really appreciate it
I really love macro, because it drives me to really go out to see new stuffs everyday, and there will always be arthropods that I've never seen before And its interesting to learn more about their names, behaviour etc.

Usually macro shooters just stick to F11 or F16. I pretty much stick to F16 all the way unless if I need more light. That way we can just focus on shooting instead of the fiddling with the settings, since every moment is precious if you are shooting a natural (unposed) shot.

There are a few things that affect the DOF based on my experience:
(1) Magnification. The larger the magnification, the thinner the DOF. If you want to get a subject that is sharp pretty much all the way, try shooting farther, then crop. When I first started, I never noticed this haha, so I only shoot at the highest magnifications, which will be a problem for larger organisms, or those that are very 3D i.e. very protruding antennae, legs etc.

(2) Your angle. Although it depends on what you want at the end of the day, if you want the whole subject to be more or less sharp, the general rule is to shoot from the front, on top (or bottom if applicable), or from behind. But this may vary from subject to subject, since arthropods come in a wide range of sizes and shapes. For example:

Shot from top of a Menemerus fulvus:


*this kind of shots will retain the details of patterns on the spider, and is very important if you want to ID the spider I usually shoot this kind of shots just for science, since its considered as a "bad" or "boring" photo for art (or photography)

Shot from the front of a Menemerus bivittatus:


*this is a very popular shooting angle for jumping spiders (or any other insects) because they have really cute and big eyes (imho la , Agito sifu will disagree kekekeke). Of course, just by looking at this side, its impossible to know what spider it is, so this is more towards an art shot.

Shot from the side of a Menemerus bivittatus:


*Another one is from the side, especially when you want to take photos of insects eating. Because if you shoot from the front or ~45 degrees, the entire subject will be too 3D to be sharp (unless if you follow #1 and shoot from really far away la, which sort of beats the point). For example this shot of a Nephilengys eating a Bactrocera fruitfly:

The blurring in this shot is intentional, since I realized the spider was so big that its impossible to get everything in. If I shoot too far away, I won't be able to show that its a fruitfly. And I can't shoot from the side since the web is very large, if I touch the web, the spider will retreat.

Another general rule: Usually for most macro shots, the eyes (if applicable) should be kept in focus, just like portrait shots

Just my 2 cents la, still a lot to learn from the sifus out there.


Oil or dust can be pretty troublesome to deal with I have to admit haha, although programs can help you remove them, but when working with a lot of photos at once, there is the tendency to miss them out, until after you uploaded them and being pointed out by people

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 14 2013, 10:13 AM

ongdennis

Thanks haha, I noticed my style of shooting changes along with my gears, so its good to note them down

Looks like an male Oxyopes birmanicus , good try, this is a good shot for identification since the abdomen is in view~
For an art shot, you only need to shoot lower at the same eye level of the spider i.e the camera should be very close to the ground
Keep it up yo~~
Spiders (especially jumping spiders) are known to jump onto lenses since they are curious little things, there's noneed to worry about them since they are not poisonous haha

Really nice sunset shot, I love it

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 14 2013, 02:27 PM

Again, sorry for double post

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 14 2013, 09:39 PM

Thanks man, sharing is caring. I've managed to learnt a lot thanks to the sifus here too
The TG2 is pretty good for macro provided its bright enough, I took a shot of a beetle in Thailand a few months ago, but of course the magnification is not as high la



copperwire93

So fast purchased already bro? Grats man
Oh, there are some tricks to shoot flowers too, but they also need practice haha, especially when the wind is interfering @_@ Flower shots don't really require flash as much as insect shots yo~
As requested, the face of the Oxyopes spiders for you- four rolls of eyes XD


All the best in your finals man, keep it up!
Time flies one, you'll be shooting when you know it
Just remember if you intend to shoot outside; wear long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and also apply mosquito repellent. Otherwise it will be very hard to focus on shooting with those damned mosquitoes bothering you all the time

Great photo bro, I love it
Especially the reflections and the really calm waters

I think there are some rubbish on the grass (sorry if see wrongly haha), those can be photoshopped out
I also think the photo needs something to be put at the front (like how people taking landscape photos of beaches will always put a rock/wood/ship etc. in front). In this case, I think the trees on the left of the frame will do. Perhaps can try shooting closer to that tree?

Just saying haha, again I am noob in landscape shots

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 15 2013, 09:52 AM

Found a Harmochirus brachiatus spider yesterday, love its well-developed front legs


Harmochirus brachiatus ♂ 1 by PF T.J., on Flickr


Harmochirus brachiatus ♂ 2 by PF T.J., on Flickr


Harmochirus brachiatus ♂ 3 by PF T.J., on Flickr

Shot with 105mm + 2x ET
ISO 320
1/250
F16
+0.3EV

Sorry for another post, but I think this is pretty important, and I have been receiving many inquiries on this, so might as well just put the info here

For those who are interested in getting cheap extension tubes (~RM30) for macro photography, do take note that these are merely hollow tubes which "holds" your lens at a certain distance from the sensor to allow a nearer focus point. There are different types of extension tubes (ET) with different mounts for Canon/Nikon/Sony etc.



Of course, there are more expensive extension tubes (ET) which costs around RM200-RM500 i.e. Meike/Kenko.
The main differences between these ET and cheaper ones are:
1) Electronic continuity between body and lens. Meike and Kenko ET allows the camera body to "communicate" with your lens, so aperture control and Autofocus abilities are still usable.

2) Better built quality: Can support heavier lenses without breaking

Afaik, using cheap extension tubes (also known as manual tubes by some) will cause Nikon systems to enter an aperture mode of F0 (due to the lack of electronic connection) when used on normal lenses without manual aperture rings. This will lead to photos coming out very dark, no matter what setup you use.
Based on what I know, there are only two ways of getting over this if you do not have a lens with a manual aperture ring
a) Get a lens with a manual aperture ring (duh lol), usually the one to go for is the 50mm F1.8D since its pretty cheap and very common.

b) This depends on the type of ET I suppose (don't think all cheap ET are like this). For Nikon systems, the only way to prevent the aperture value becoming F0 is to manually "trick" the aperture controls. Details can be seen here: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=402...&type=3&theater
All credits to Mr. Shahrir Haji Nawawi and melnikor sifu for sharing his knowledge on this

Canon systems are easier to use with cheap ET though. One only has to attach a normal lens, set the aperture (say F16), then press DOF preview, remove the normal lens, then attach the ET plus the lens and the aperture will be set to F16.

Verdict for Nikon users:
Unless if you already have a 50mm F1.8D (which many have since it is the nifty fifty ), and only wanted to try out on macro photography (no intentions of buying any dedicated macro lens later), the cheap ET will be good enough~
If you intend to venture into the world of macro photography, then by all means get Meike/Kenko (especially Kenko if you plan on investing in a big macro lens i.e. 90mm/105mm/150mm/180mm etc. later on); the better built quality will reduce the risks of dropping the lens or damaging the connecting plates between lens and body. And of course, there is Autofocus. The AF capabilities differ from lens to lens, although it sucks on the 50mm F1.8g, it works like a charm on the 105mm F2.8 micro. I even shoot with AF now, big change in shooting style

Just sharing XD
Sorry for long-winded

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 15 2013, 02:36 PM

Yaya
Rubbish on the grass haha, not dust spots, I don't pixel peep one haha

Haha, this one is more relevant to macro I think
But thanks Just sharing some solutions to problems which have been bugging me these few days haha

I am impressed with the 90mm/100mm/105mm macro lenses to be honest since they can shoot from far to close, and can achieve such wide apertures of F2.8 with good AF speeds; sometimes I only bring this lens out since it pretty much covers everything already for me

Yeah, you are right
I didn't follow the technical terms for easier understanding
Still, I suppose I should change it lol, thanks

Your photos are good ah
Since you are using a D3200, its better to go for the 35mm, which is equivalent to ~50mm on FX.
A 50mm F1.8d/g will be 75mm equivalent on FX already, which is too much for food shots. You will have to stand very far away, and most of the time its awkward, or not even possible in certain restaurants/eateries

Not really in to shooting food, but you can probably just move the plate to a place without that much ambient light that reflects the oil droplet?
Or use something to diffuse the ambient light or something?

Some shots taken using a DX D90 and 50mm F1.8g, of course need to stand back and shoot

Japanese-styled Beef Burger by PF T.J., on Flickr


Japanese-styled Pizza by PF T.J., on Flickr

Some stills shots:


This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 15 2013, 03:14 PM

You are most welcomed, keep shooting, sure will improve more
Primes are much sharper than kitlens right out of the camera, and of course, the bokeh is very hard to resist

As for reflections or not, it depends on the ambient light in the restaurant I suppose? All you need to do is change your angle, or the location of the food until there's no reflections

For D600 yes

Cleaning sure will charge one right? Even if covered by warranty I think?
Unless if its those big Nikon events that offer free cleaning lo

Nope, bracketing involves shooting several photos of different EV/aperture/shutter speed etc., which you have to stich yourself later
But I think there are readily available modes like HDR in the D800 which take two photos and auto combine... but most people don't like it since two is not enough haha

It will take 3 (or more, depending on your settings) photos continuously, but you can set the interval timing between each shots under Timer (C6) iirc

This post has been edited by [PF] T.J.: Nov 15 2013, 09:37 PM

Have faith man, your shots are not as bad as you think

Yeah, I think the 50mm is not sharp at F1.8, which is normal la haha... In fact, I almost always shoot at F2.8 or higher unless if I really need the extra bokeh, which I will shoot at F2.2, then sharpen in PP

This is actually a very good suggestion, will have to read more on the reviews
I have two friends, one using Nikon, the other one Sony. Since they love macro, it might be better to just invest in a 30mm or 40mm macro lens instead of the usual nifty fifty. The macro lenses should be quite sharp even at F2.8. And even if using a 50mm F1.8, I suppose most will shoot at F2.8 too (at least I do ).

For that extra stop, I guess macro shooters will have an external flash to compensate haha, that way it doesn't really matter anymore if can shoot at F1.8 or not

Interesting