honda city thread

I don't know, as you can see from the Honda City page. Someone seemed to have made it work and it stays on even after shifting to D. Or does it turn off once the system sense speed?

Me too, got something to share also become irrelevant dah.

What to share? Everything is just standard stuff la, bodykit, rims, DRL. Same topic, same car, different day and different page only. Even the rim topic already mentioned a few pages back.

Unless someone planted a K20AR or swapped a 6 speed mission from a Fit RS into their GE or GK. That would be an interesting topic. But for those, we have MYJFFC la.

To be frank, what sort of offset can you find for a taiwanese 16" rim? Except for those ROTA rims la. I don't think you have much choices lo. The standard +42 offset on a 7" with no wheel spacers should fit without issues on a stock car.

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 13 2015, 04:35 PM

You do need the handbrake bypass at least to prevent the screen from going off when driving.

If you run into a dead end. Should try and get some other phones to try. The pic sure looks like some android phone to me

I mean, what basis as in low rpm? How much throttle is fed? I guess at 10 to 15% throttle (i have an OBD II monitor showing the relative throttle position), the car would not really be haulin' ass. But, it is moving. If you want it to accelerate faster, then it makes sense to feed more throttle which it then kicks down a gear or two and send it moving.

If you've driven a City GM3 and above. You will understand how the econ button plays with the throttle curve and shift programs. The good thing on the City GM3 is that you always can have the gear lever put in "S" and then use the paddle shift to keep it in manual mode and stick it in any gear you want. It sort of helps in some way but isn't really solving the problem.

Partly it is the shift program, partly the way the throttle is mapped, delays, lags and whatever from a DBW.

GE has an ATF vs the CVT on the GK

This post has been edited by nm7: Sep 16 2015, 12:48 AM

If it can stay within 2k revs. I believe you are not putting in much throttle at all. The car won't be accelerating fast at this much throttle opening. Anything past 25% throttle feels quite acceptable by me for city driving.

You just need to get used to how the throttle operates and the transmission shifts. It is sometines hard to relate how the throttle corresponds to the acceleration rate. But, i would say it is fairly simple to command by just lightly touching the throttle pedal giving 10-15% and the car would stay constant at city cruising speeds or it will slowly accelerate from standstill. If you need it to accelerate harder, speed up and then back off when your cruising speed is reached.

For an idea of how much throttle i need when cruising around 120kph on flattish expressways. I only give around 15 to 20% and it stays there.

Throttle controllers in the market is useless. It just gets signal off your sensors and fool the ecu into thinking that you have actually given it less or more throttle than what you have put in based on selected modes. Might as well you just press harder with your right foot and save the couple hundred bucks. The throttle is only going to open so much and those controller still works within the physical constrains of the throttle. It also does not reduces the lag introduced by DBW either.

What is there to dig about? It's all on the internet.

It has direct injection, twin cams.

This is a true i-VTEC where there is a valve timing and valve lift involved compared to the previous generation L15A which has a very confusing i-VTEC which actually has a very different meaning to the ones most people relate to on the K20AR.

This one according to the parts listing seems to shows different camshaft on both sides meaning it is most likely to have VTEC activation on the intake side of things.


HondaPartsNow Honda Fit 2015 assuming this is the L15B earth dreams that is available in the US.


It looks to have potential where i think i read somewhere that some tuners have gotten it up in the regions of 160ps which is almost B series range of power output. How much work and money that has to put into it is a topic for another day.

I guess, what this new earth dreams motor has is with the direct injection on it's side allowing it to run higher compression compared to previous B and K motors. So, it should be a base for the introduction of turbocharging into Honda's line up in the future.

There you have it.

It is not a 3 stage vtec.

3 stage or vtec-e. It does not close one intake valve. There is no hints that it does that as the intake cams have 3 cam lobes.

This is how 3 stage vtec looks like.


It has 2 pins pushed by hydraulics to each activate 1 valve and valve lift function instead of the conventional 1 pin design of normal vtec.

The only one that does it in the L series line up is the l13 i think.

This post has been edited by nm7: Oct 4 2015, 09:03 AM

3 stage or vtec-e. Both has valve deactivation which is my point since you are asking about l15b.

As for the local GM city and GK based Jazz, they are using the L15Z engine codes last i saw on the chassis plates. But, what it does doesn't matter at all. There is not much you can hope for if you are looking for performance. Furthermore, we don't have the 6MT option here and the halfcuts are now at extravagant prices which you can surely look into alternatives if you want speed. Hondata pub tarak support.

So what is the intention for knowing?

Nah. Feels the same.

Horee shiet. 3 years worth of mileage adi.

U mau tukar kereta ke?

Despo or not. We only know price will increase next year as confirmed by what we should not link to. 2 or 3% increase.

So, that rm5,500 might sound tempting now if you ask me. Especially if one is lookin to buy in 2016 with additional factors on discount uncertainties by 2016 after price goes up

Tyres only or entire wheel? {with rim}

Still.......

Let's jus put it this way. Honda already confirmed price to go up next year. Is it immediately after 1 jan 2016? I am not sure. It depends if you want to chance it.

I think it is as aggressive as you can get now since only a month left considering no amount you get next year will cancel off the price increase and make it cheaper than what you can get now.

7k is kinda hard. Honda official promo now i think is 4k discount in cash. Heard some dealers go up to 6k with additional rebates la. That is almost 10% of the car mind you.

Most of the stuff is either not available as an add on option later or costs a bomb. You sure saving that amount is a wise choice?

Only you know what you want, no one can give you an answer.