Any alteration and add-on device on engine will "potentially" void any warranty. Even changing rim will also void warranty for suspension and related parts. However unless you want to stay stock until warranty expire, the best mods are usually the add-on ones than can be remove at any time.

Personally during my last warranty on electric/ECU cabling, they don't even bother to note the VS and GC there. Got LCP in there also ok. Unless you happened upon an a$$hole mechanic or SA, most of these minor mods will be ignored. Those smaller SC is MUCH more flexible to negotiate warranty issues and they usually tend to ignore those mods when claiming warranty.

So far, the combination of GC and VS works well for me in terms of air-cond kick. Now, I barely notice the kicks anymore when compared to before installation where every time the compressor kick in, can feel car loss power or noticeable jerk (usual air cond kick jerk).

My "federal highway" run every early morning is abt 110-120km/h. My "kesas highway" run if I uses kesas to go back home to klang is 110-140...

My rough finding is at 140 and below 100 makan minyak abit but at 110-120km/h, quite FC saving especially as it involved longer stretch of non-vehicle jam smoother run. Although further mileage when using highway, always got way more FC remaining after that.

I know it defeats FC thru wind drag at higher speed but PE engine does comes alive and more torque and power at 110-120km/h, so I think that actually have wins over wind drag fc obstacle, since our lesser wind drag at below 100 still kills FC faster due to much weaker torque there.

Ha....so in the end you mod your car so that you can vroom vroom and go slower instead...

Engine part only, does not cover its rubber where its considered wear and tear. This is an indirect Proton rip-off when they offer "5 years warranty". Any other car manufacturer would have covered most everything in engine during warranty period. Even the 2 years stock warranty does not cover rubber seal, etc. I know for sure Honda covered EVERYTHING during their 3 years warranty. As long as leaking, part replacement in engine, ALL sure free of charge.

One don't become rich by giving discount. The one giving discount is poorer by the amt he discounted mah...

CC5 is an entry level tyres, way better than its predecessor CC1 but fall short of expectation after using a while (not my own exp, lots of real life usage review around). If you want entry level tyres however, CC5 and XM2 is still the one to go for.

For some who's using 2 different sets of tyres, I don't see any reason why not.

However one thing you have to take note of. If the older tyres is a performance range with excellent grip and the new ones are CC5 entry level where grip is minimal where else you would normally stuck the new tyres on the rear, you might risk tyre slip at the back when doing hard braking especially on downhill runs.

If sticking any better grip tyres to the back and entry level in front, it should be ok. However if the old performance tyres are worn down, the grip might lessen to even lower level than the new entry level, so you have to judge yourself....just make sure the tyres at rear have higher existing grip than the front.

You can claim in any Proton Authorised workshop regardless of the place you buy from.

Gen 2 rear windows slant much more than PE thus a VERY noticeable huge gap there. CoSE technician told me its Gen2 rear windows, don't know how factory can installed into my PE.

So whoever saying Gen2 and PE rear side windows same one, ask them go fly kite. Maybe voscar SC is talking abt the parts INSIDE the door panel....itu gua tak tau

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 24 2013, 10:37 AM

Itu signal light/wiper switches not normal lar. Nowadays I always have a delayed reaction to switch on signal coz has to process whether to click on the right or left switch especially when cutting lane. Lots of time switch on light immediately to cut lane only to have wiper dry wipe my windscreen instead. This happens coz I sometimes drive with Honda. So my immediate reaction without thinking, tends to switch wrongly in different car. So far only encounter it in PE or newer proton cars.

Just in case, you might want to consider changing the lube. Exposed hole might cause sand might directly entered the engine within the lube if it had been driven for some time. Hopefully the oil filter got them, if not it might scratch the piston, etc. Very damaging to the engine.

Still scratching my head on why would you do that....running the engine w/o oil cap on purpose. Eat rice nothing to do kah !!!!

Oh, I tot you give a fast run without cap to see if performance increase coz got more air going in...err....thru engine hole instead.

Paper filter or mesh wire? If paper, you have to change, if mesh wire, just wash the dust away.

Lai, lai, lai....no need tunggu sampai mati. I got FOC used Idemitsu Fully Syn for anyone who wants it. Only use for 6 months and 5.5K km mileage. Can still use another 4.5k km mileage. Authentic stuff, guaranteed original lube.

How long since you last service your air-cond? At what mileage then compared to now?

There is no specific mileage to clean as fubar mentioned. When you feel like your car no power, then try cleaning (I know stock PE pun no power liao but you can compared it vs new).

If you use those un-recommended mesh wire filter (it WAS discontinued by ALL car manufacturers in 70s for that reason), cuci very very early. Your engine lube pun got lots of dirts. Same with open pod filter.

Performance oiled paper filter is better, but still lots of micro dust get thru, probably need service before 60-80k mileage. For stock paper, you can last all the way to 80K, no problem. Just clean if you feel loss of power. Car with stock filter sometime never clean until 100K also no prob.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 26 2013, 03:02 PM

It depends on how you use your air-cond. If buka high power all time, sure cepat habis. If normal low-mid power, usually the recommended interval is abt 2 years or 40K mileage. Its better to clean than to wait for it to fail, then only go repair. Cleaning can go anywhere from RM180 to RM300 depending on what you replace. If compressor failed coz dirt jam...over 1K to 2K repair charges.

I'm talking abt cleaning tb lar. Paper filter, I usually change at 10K to 15k mileage. Cheap cheap only. Less than RM20 but the air flow gave more power to engine. Those who wants to save to last 20K, no problem but frankly, the loss of power thus indirectly FC, won't make up for the abt RM5 that you save.

Yes. K&N and Works drop in filter already much better than those mesh but still filteration is actually much weaker than stock although on paper it says it filters better. There is no 2 ways to it, faster air flow comes with more dirt getting thru. The price to pay to increased performance but long term wise, as TB get burden, performance will drop until you clean tb. For stock filter, you should be able to maintain consistent performance if you change by 10K mileage without getting tb clean. It will still accumulate carbon and dirt deposit but at a much much slower rate thus performance remain high for much longer.

ps. Since fuber using singer oil.....need to mention this. It was a well known fact that once reoil was done, its performance WILL drop as its oiling evenness can never match factory oiled standard. Lets hope singer oil never drop inside tb...(oiling too much).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 26 2013, 03:21 PM