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 Ideas to Increase Fuel Efficiency, Combat fuel price hike with normal car

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VagueConcerns
post Sep 17 2013, 07:40 PM

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QUOTE(jolokia @ Sep 17 2013, 06:58 PM)
Fuel efficiency had turn into complex physics calculations ...lol...

Maybe should get Soft, Medium & Hard compound tyre, don't forget semi & full wet tyres too change according to road temperature & weather ...rofl...

Cabut....
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You'd need a pit crew travelling along with you. laugh.gif

Over-inflating by just a bit is quite safe...provided that you know that you are not cornering very hard/fast, and will not be operating the vehicle beyond the recommend loading. You don't need to over-think the "extra load" bit. I'd look at my passengers and cargo to have an estimate. I've never had to worry about that even when there a 6 occupants in my car (Myvi BTW). However, most of the time my passengers are small petite women, so... laugh.gif

But none could replace driving habit. The trouble is, lots of people confuse between driving gently and slowly. Driving slowly will just be annoying to everyone else (unless you're doing it for safety reasons like carrying a s***load of durians at the back seat, then carry on).

There's no need to over-think it if you want to save fuel. Drive at the speed limit, and be patient when getting to that speed limit, just those for starters. There are various driving tips all over the net. I've seen a person from a forum getting 11km/l using a '76 El Camino with a 5L V8 auto, no mods just driving technique. If that person can do that with that car, what excuse do we have driving cars much smaller than that?
VagueConcerns
post Sep 17 2013, 11:16 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 17 2013, 07:50 PM)
some cars though are just not meant for driving "efficiently"

take for example my iswara... 3 speeder auto.
1st shift is at 20km/h, 3rd and final shift is at 40km/h. so if i wanna stay at minimal throttle input/sub 2-3k rpm, id be sitting between 40-60km/h.

surely, it improved my FC from 7-8km h to EASILY 8-9 km/h or so despite i STILL pull off red lines when the traffic permits... but damn it is hard to break a hard revving habit and go 40km/h most of the time.

for reference: http://www.fuelly.com/driver/quazacolt/saga
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I know how fun it is and I sometimes find myself a very large empty parking lot to ease off my addiction (I like the feel of throttling up after a very hard corner). biggrin.gif
If you really want to save fuel but not change your car I guess you either live with it or dump the habit.

It's got a long ratio; the 3rd gear on iswara is about the same as the 4th of a Myvi manual box. Not a highway cruiser for sure, but I think it won't do too bad at the lights. I'd say tune the carb just to be a bit lean but that would mean you'd REALLY have to say bye-bye to the high-rev habit. Change carb maybe (if you haven't done so already)?

You'd have to "crawl" that thing off the lights but you'd be annoying everyone behind you. I know I would be if I were behind you, eventhough I am a hyper-miler. laugh.gif
VagueConcerns
post Sep 24 2013, 10:52 AM

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QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 18 2013, 10:42 PM)

very very agree.  and btw, shouldn't you put durians at the trunk?  Imagine if you really unlucky get into car collision, then all the thorns flying in your car...
So far most of the thread here talk about drive gently etc etc to save fuel.

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A few days ago I saw a Kancil full of durians at the back seat. laugh.gif
VagueConcerns
post Sep 24 2013, 11:08 AM

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I've read somewhere that the rear ventshades can be taken off if you travel at the highway often. You can leave the front ones on as the shape of them and the way they face the wind doesn't make them as detrimental.

There is some modification that could be done to the front, such as making a vertical slot at the rear-most part of the front ventshades, closest to the B-pillar. You'd have created a slot for trapped air to get out of while still protecting the interior from getting wet.

No scientific testing has been done about that but they guy who did it (IIRC) did notice a fair degree of wind noise reduction.

I'd test it myself but the tape they are so well put on after 8 years they still stick like new, I'm afraid that I'llcrack them and have to buy a new one. tongue.gif

Other things you could do to your car:

1. Tint your windows (legally).
2. Fix any dents on the body.
3. Change mudflaps. Those square flat ones aren't good in the wind, and there are alternatives that provide the same protection. Ones on newer cars, those small stiff plastic things are good and they curve into the shape of the under-body for better aerodynamics.
4. Better air filter. Though this can be a bit expensive and if not chosen properly can provide no additional benefit. What you may get is better performance with the same fuel economy (not actually increasing it).

Things like CAI may only be useful if your engine is running super hot, and a bit lean I think. The cold air just makes it a tiny bit more difficult for fuel to vaporize. Unless you want to go full on racing and heat the fuel pre injection. laugh.gif Dangerous by the way, and expensive. Don't do it. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by VagueConcerns: Sep 24 2013, 11:34 AM
VagueConcerns
post Sep 24 2013, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(mikehwy @ Sep 24 2013, 12:27 PM)
This one looks very real, and my BLM saliva also come out.
Really can or not? Will sifus give some ideas please? these shd benefit many of us here.
Thanks.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ra03WLtfTug
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There are too many variables in play there. He could be having head/tail wind on either trip, and the test was done in one day, while these real world FC test should be done in weeks preferably.

There are also too many ways to cheat. He could've pushed the car hard for the first run, and then drove lightly for the second. And the way to measure the fuel was crap. The proper way is to have a small amount of fuel from a separate container which contains a certain number of litres of fuel (10 maybe), not relying on the reading from the fuel pump which may have slight errors. Then after each run pour the fuel out and measure what's left. And this should be done preferably in a test environment like a circuit, or even better a rolling road.

 

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