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 The makeover of my humble abode, Sharing my renovation journey

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dp82
post Mar 24 2014, 07:27 PM

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QUOTE(maxxon @ Mar 24 2014, 06:15 PM)
Me too reluctant to do any built-in cab... I am buying most of the furniture off the shelf, except wardrobe and kitchen cab. From my calculation the cost for a built-in wardrobe which i can do it right up to the ceiling is actually not far off from ikea's if not cheaper.

Following is the picture of the hidden tv cable hose after fixing an empty slot in. I measured the pipe which it is 2.5" dia. I thought it shoudn't be an issue if it's slightly off-center, as it is hidden behind the TV.
user posted image
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This is the 1st time i saw so many 13amp looping in a row. Any particular reason u need so much at tv cabinet area?
dp82
post Apr 14 2014, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(maxxon @ Apr 14 2014, 05:18 PM)
In this case i must agree with mrgoodgood on the degree of projection. As we know light projects and travels in straight line and LED lights especially have a stronger projection intensity and specific projection degree. (Eg. eyeball spot light has very narrow projection degree). Normal downlight is not so specific with such projection degree and that's why i said the light is softer or less intensed.

As such if we use these led downlights, we should either move the light further away from the fan blades or use a shorter fan rod so that to avoid the wide projection 'kena' the blades causing shadow flickering (provided the rod is short enough for that certain degree the lights has)... So, longer the rod, easier to 'kena' the light projection.

I know you will say avoid led downlights... but that's still personal choice, as nothing is perfect and each has got its strength and weakness. Although led downlights with more intensed projection but the flickering can be avoided by method suggested. That's one of the benefit of this forum that we learn from people's experience and we find a way to avoid errors...
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I had the same issue where the LED downlights are too near to my ceiling fan. Fan is KDK 60" regulator. Had the issue of flickering all the way fr ceiling to floor. Its too damm annoying.

Ended up i change to Deka Baby G 42" after a few days. It drastically changed everything.

I think mainly the issue is due to longer blades.

dp82
post Apr 14 2014, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(supersound @ Apr 14 2014, 08:38 PM)
If you want a piece of mind is when doing plaster ceiling, make it such that the lights part level are lower than the fan.
By taking measurement and some logic thinking, shadow can be avoided.
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What if the owner opt for just flatboard plaster ceiling. The fan will definately lower than the lights.

What would be the alternative to achieve lights are lower than the fan?
dp82
post Jun 19 2014, 10:02 AM

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QUOTE(maxxon @ Jun 18 2014, 08:26 PM)
Today, i feel like having shower in the guest bathroom and found the floor trap is clogged. The water flew away pretty slow compared to our master bathroom and caused approx 2cm depth of flood. I lifted the middle tile piece and found quite some long and curly hairs which belong to my mum. tongue.gif
The bathroom was used by my mum and dad occasionally when they visit me. So, the usage for shower would've be less than 20 times... Conclusion, those with longer hair will have to clean the floor trap more often. For example, if my shoulder length hair will have to clean it once in 2 months, those with double or triple of my hair length will have to do it once a month or in couple of weeks.

[attachmentid=4018928]

For longer hair, those conventional floor trap (stainless steel or plastic) is still the better choice as the fallen hair can be easily picked up.
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I find that this kind of trap is very hard to dig it out for cleaning tho it looks nice. Everytime i have to use a fork to dig it out lol

 

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