In this case i must agree with mrgoodgood on the degree of projection. As we know light projects and travels in straight line and LED lights especially have a stronger projection intensity and specific projection degree. (Eg. eyeball spot light has very narrow projection degree). Normal downlight is not so specific with such projection degree and that's why i said the light is softer or less intensed.

As such if we use these led downlights, we should either move the light further away from the fan blades or use a shorter fan rod so that to avoid the wide projection 'kena' the blades causing shadow flickering (provided the rod is short enough for that certain degree the lights has)... So, longer the rod, easier to 'kena' the light projection.

I know you will say avoid led downlights... but that's still personal choice, as nothing is perfect and each has got its strength and weakness. Although led downlights with more intensed projection but the flickering can be avoided by method suggested. That's one of the benefit of this forum that we learn from people's experience and we find a way to avoid errors...

Yup, the 2 variables which could cause the flickering is either:
1) the distance between ceiling and blades of fan
2) the distance between light and blades of fan

This post has been edited by maxxon: Apr 15 2014, 09:47 AM

Love the eyeballs lighting effect... and the brightness is actually just nice for a bedroom.

Thank you for following my journey... and wish you a smooth one too..
Keep sharing yours ya, coz im one of the follower too...

Err... Pls pardon me but i really don't understand how is your fan in the picture is below the fan level?
Also, what's to do with measuring the fan blades length (instead of distance from blade to light?), and also why is it the ceiling width and length?

Actually the trigonometry formula is the right thing to calculate. It's not a technical term either. It's what we learnt in secondary math, you had definitely learnt it but you've perhaps forgotten or didn't notice what it calls already.

I've drawn a simple diagram below, with my simple tablet app. Just done it very quickly with free-hand. So, again, pls don't laugh at me!!



We have got the distance of fan from the ceiling = B
We have the light beam degree already (derived from our light degree, which varies from different models of lights, eg my light is 112 deg) = C degree
So, we need to calculate what's the minimum A or D to avoid the light beam hitting the fan blades.

To simplyfy my explanation, let's refer to the lighting expert's post on this similar issue and the method of calculation from the following link, post#237.
https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2938110/+220

Edit: this calculation is to ease those plan to install LED light in a small medium room. Whether it works or not you can tell us after you've tried it. Thanks.

This post has been edited by maxxon: Apr 15 2014, 08:21 AM

Come on bro, your layman method who don't know?? It's only applicable to a bigger room! Especially master room. I am more in a position to tell you this because I experienced before with LED downlight in a small medium room. Did you?? If you refer to my previous post, I already did your layman method which all wiremen do, just common sense right? To distribute it as far as possible and in a uniform way. No need a teacher to teach also a school boy will know! Did you see my few attempts which I move the light further and further away until no more space, until the wall already? The calculation method is here to assist those who haven't install but planning to use LED in a small or medium room, at least they can do something before purchasing and minimize the chances of failure. Of course people can choose to 'try and error' like what I did and of course they need not f**cking worry if their room is big enough! Of course, I need to reinforce again, to use LED or not is a personal choice.

Whether the calculation is working or not, neither me or you can comment, let those who use it and comment. Finally, i don't know whether my post will offense you but I can tell you that I'm very much offended this 'seven morning, eight morning' got to read all these negativity!

Grill is good. Eventhough there is some part of my main gate they did brought back to factory and reworked but overall still good including their after sales services.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/Three-Kim-Me...219963244769158

This post has been edited by maxxon: Apr 15 2014, 08:23 AM

I'm offended that you simply like to deny people's effort and call them stupid. In your world, no need ID, no need expert, no need technical studies.... Ok, let's stop all these nuisance.
I have done and very happy with my lightings, so let other people to tell us their experience and result.

Thanks. Reno almost done....pheww...long journey...

Thanks... Hope my little sharing helps in some ways...
I didn't post only good and beautiful jobs but my errors thru out the process and vendor reviews too... Hope you guys find a way to avoid error as mine.

Haha.. Thanks...i think that's the simplest thing I can do in merely less than 15 minutes. If i just put one dot, i afraid the contractor overlook coz my exterior involved a few smaller parts with different colors, so i might as well just dot-dot-dot with my finger using the ipad drawing app.

I used Nippon paint in and out.



You know what I did? I brought the color charts to my friend's house which is painted in Nippon paint too. I put the chart on several of her walls to compare if there is any difference of its color on the actual wall. I find the chart's colors are just as close as to the actual. Then, I have more confident on my color selection. All my color selections turns out into what I wanted except for one of the interior wall color "hush white" which is off too creamy to my liking. If you notice, there is none of a single earth tone (choco, muddy, cream, beige,yellow) on my walls.

I agreed with jootat that the only slightly-off-abit is the roof color.
I actually went around my neighbor hood to survey the colors others did and I find the following which I personally want to avoid:
1) no red/chocolate or creamy roof to go with gray exterior
2) no purplish white or reddish white on exterior wall (I prefer pure white or white with cream-tone on exterior wall)

Btw, color choices are just too personal and beauty is in the eye of the beholder.

Agreed with jootat too that interior is more important...

Dear Canineslave,

Really thank you for your warm and comforting words.... I sometimes did wonder why is the hack that I'm so keh-poh-chi and so free, updating all details of my reno journey, revealing my privacy to others.... Just for the sake of showing off, I shall better post the final furnished photos and wait for compliments...isn't it better?
Like my hubby said, why should I bother to tell things that I learnt and the best price that I've got, it's not like people will appreciate these...... Only one word lor, keh-poh.

There are a few times that I've got demotivated and thought of to abandon this thread... but i just can not tahan to let it be hanging half way, incomplete without an ending....
So, i will definitely continue my journey and I know the last chapter is near...

Thanks you guys for following...sorry, have not been updating much lately as there are nothing much at this final phase...will post more pictures later..

Long story regarding the wall actually....
Tried a couple of methods with cement and also plastering material...not successful though. Sometimes with weird patches after it totally dried out...sometimes with 'dusty' surface...sometimes with very fine hairline-crack after dried...
It is easier to get the result on a wooden platform but all kind of surprises will occurs when it dries on a wall after days.... Others may accept the hairline-crack as it is still consider very fine but I do not want it that 'raw' as this is still a bedroom and I afraid I would be regretted it one day.

Thus, I decided to go simpler with San Cora textured wall paint, UNO series. The primer layer is now done but pending the top layer. Will show pics when things done.

I didn't go too 'raw' as yes, it is an in style now, but how if many has starts doing that in their house? I think the trend has got too 'viral' already now as it is seen everywhere in many shops and cafe especially in mall. Sometimes feel jelak already... So, i'm giving myself an option of easy alteration if I want to change the theme in future...it shouldn't involve too much work, just in case I get bored then. As we know, whatever in trend will definitely go 'out-trend' when you can see the same thing everywhere. A commercial retail should follow or lead the trend but i will remain slightly conservative on own residence as we are sure not going to refurbish every 2 years...
As, we have already tried out several methods including the methods that mrgoodgood suggested. I gave up and shall go for the matte textured wall.

Amy,
The lightweight blocks that u asked me in previous post is actually a lightweight brick (bigger piece) that I used to build the partition wall between entrance foyer and living room. Do you intend to use the cement looks tiles for living hall but not bathroom? Would the 2 feet grouts looks nice in a living hall?

This post has been edited by maxxon: Apr 22 2014, 06:52 PM

Cementum on kitchen is nice... I thought you wanna do cement-like tile in other area like living hall, then it will be a little awkward with those grouts...

I think even if it cracks, yours are still fine coz just on grouts, so it will still looks nice unlike mine previously, a few as long as 800mm crack lines across the wall is really and it is in a bedroom which it supposed to be 'softer'....

Don't forget to show us your feature brickwall, it sure looks stunning.

You mean general interior and exterior painting? My main con did that...

Err... but i don't think my main con want to take the job if it's only painting... I'll see if my friend has any contact. Will PM you if i get it.

Adui! Laugh die me~

If not mistaken, I think the light on top and otherwise, is more refering to interior ceiling and floor color. Ceiling should be light so that we don't feel pressed, while floor should be darker in color so that we feel more stable and not 'floating'. Feng shui is about science of what's the best environment setting to make us more comfortable (psychologically in particular).

In this case of exterior maybe make us psychologically feel more stable to have the bottom part in darker color and the house is not floating lor...hehehe~

My vent blocks were supplied by the main con. I dug out the brochure that he let me chose the pattern, it was from CKC. Found their website for your ref: http://choifooksing.blogspot.com

I'm very happy with my autogate DCMoto925w thus far. They are working perfectly fine. My gate is around 15', not sure what's the max length/weight it can handle. You may want to check with the vendor.

This post has been edited by maxxon: May 1 2014, 03:32 AM