Yes, distilled water will work fine. Just make sure you don't end up buying something else.

You can also use coolant, which has all the anti corrosion and what-nots already mixed in, complete with colour even.

Good choice on the coloured tube, but I'm guessing your res will be transparent, so might want to consider coloured coolant or dyed water.

Deionised water, RO water, Mineral water.

Pretty much most coolant will be "non-conductive", but not all of them mention how "non-conductive" they are. Personally, I'd recommend XSPC's EC6, a formula based on Thermochill's excellent EC6 coolant which you can google up and read about. I have EC6 in stock if you're interested. Else, there's always Mayhems, but from infernoaswen's results, seems like the dye breaks down as well. But you can try Mayhem pastel coolants, haven't heard of issues so far.

Deteriorate? In what way? You mean stain? Staining will occur at high temperatures and if and when the dye in the coolant/water destabilises. From tests, the original Thermochill EC6 colour does not separate or destabilise. If the rebranded EC6 is anything like it, you shouldn't see staining.

Yes, be sure it's stated distilled.

Like it or not, everything will still be conductive. Just a matter of how much. The purpose of using Distilled and not anything else is coz it's pretty much pure in the sense that there's nothing, or at least very, very little things in it since it's considered dead water.

Sure bro. Consider your case size and then figure out your tube size. Be warned that if you choose to go 1/2" 3/4" tubing, you might have an issue with compression fittings when assembling on WC parts that have the ports next to each other.

Trypical choice will be Bitspower. haha. But if you want to budget, there's Enzotech.

Your diagram looks weird lol.

Pump/res>cpu>rad>GPU>pump res? ok what. You can even flip the position of the CPU and GPU block if you want.

2 holes, one in one out. So in from pump, out from CPU block in to rad, out from rad in to GPU block, out to res pump.

Did you buy a brand new one or used one? If brand new and you haven't used or damaged it in any way, maybe try asking for a swap?

Mount it at the back for now unless you want to sell it off and buy for yourself a new one. You can get a mount bracket system by koolance from niclasteoh.

you can still put the pump inside your case. just your tube routing will be oddly long.

You don't need to cover actually. Some have left the radiator on the top exposed.

I don't think there's proof stating short tubes give better results, but typically that's what people do to keep things neat.

use a bracket to lift your radiator off the case, use 90 degree adapters on the radiator inlet and outlet, route the tubes to the back of your case.

yeah, 90 degree or 45 degree rotaries. you'll still need compression fittings unless you buy 90 degree or 45 degree rotaries that come with compression fittings on one end.

Wait. Why can't you put it at the back again? I wouldn't sacrifice my top cover to up the rad on the top.

That's why I converted all the values here.

OCDrift is a locally based group, so whatever they get their hands on, you can pretty much be sure you'll be able to find locally. To answer your question, yes you can get the accelero hybrid locally, but I think the price of it is about the price of a GPU block or more, so it's not really worth it if you've already got a custom water cooling system going.

A good price performance balance for third party air cooler for gpu are the ones from arctic. they are phenomenal. Check them out. Should be about 2xx or so for one.

Actually, depends what temperatures you want to achieve. If you feel you want better temperature handling and have the budget, then sure, get a 240mm. Otherwise, you don't really "need" to.

Depends on your system too.

If you're going rigid acrylic loop and plan on bending, you don't need rotaries. Just be prepared to go through many hours of bending acrylic and learning while you do it.

Depends what you want to achieve.