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Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread V31, Excitement Embodied

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gundamsp01
post Oct 11 2013, 07:14 PM

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went to the fair at ikano, MG red frame and MG strike ver. RM had been sold out!!! cry.gif

anyway...saw the price of the PG strike gundam...RM503 not bad...
can survey in timesquare tomorrow...maybe will pick up together with the skygrasper add on. tongue.gif

maybe one question, for newbie (with only exp building MG with just only conventional scissors and without any topcoat or additional coloring experience), is PG strike gundam suitable for my case as in it is off the box and ready to be built by following the manual without any additional tinkering such as parts modification or repainting? Thank you for your patience notworthy.gif

btw, what would be the reasonable price range for both PG strike gundam + add on PG skygrasper?

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Oct 11 2013, 07:15 PM
gundamsp01
post Oct 11 2013, 07:30 PM

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QUOTE(Agito666 @ Oct 11 2013, 07:20 PM)
Get a proper cutter instead use scissors.. sweat.gif
PG should can straight built like that, you can Google dalong website to check it out
*
if i may, what is the difference between a proper cutter and a scissors? coz both do the same job, and i use a nail clipper to clip off the excess from the part. Sorry for the stupid question, just want to make things clear for me sweat.gif , oh btw, i trying to save up on some money to avoid buying unnecessary tools, which is why u see i use a nail clipper instead of a knife pen which said in some tutorials online.
gundamsp01
post Oct 20 2013, 05:50 PM

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sucky luck, i accidentally broke my pg strike upper front biseps inner mechanism part...FML...that joint is something like a grab-kind claw thingy, and i broke it coz i push it too hard to grab the role doh.gif, now just have to deal with it...sigh

btw, regarding nubs removal, i watch tons of youtube video, and no luck on me. the white spot is always there...
method 1: sandpaper (spoil my plastic surface, scratch marks)
method 2: design knife (white spot still there, and sometimes causes indentation)
method 3: nail clipper (white spot still there, just that i can control better)

any other way to remove nubs mark completely? is it i have to resort to painting my gundam only then nubs mark can be covered?
gundamsp01
post Oct 20 2013, 08:30 PM

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QUOTE(HxiiiK @ Oct 20 2013, 05:52 PM)
method 2, but slowly.. make sure your knife is as sharp as possible, and follow the cut slowly so you can control and lessen the indentation, while not stressing the plastic to cause white marks
*
tried by slowly slicing a nubs off...but white spot still there. sad.gif

QUOTE(TaurusOxford @ Oct 20 2013, 05:53 PM)
The only way to 100% remove nub marks is via painting. You can get rid of most of the white spot via using a real touch marker and wiping away the excess, but you can still see it up close.
*
ic, would it be fine if i just use art brush and acrylic paint, and just brush it through? as i can't afford an airbrush/compressor, would using brush causes brush trail on the plastic kit? thx

QUOTE(General_Nic @ Oct 20 2013, 05:57 PM)
sanding is the most perfect way to remove nubs
to remove scratch marks you need to use multi grit sandpaper
eg. 800 -> 1200 -> 2000
then after that you need to polish it, there's 2 ways
either use polishing compound(like cream) on cloth to rub the surface
or use polishing paper or sticks, eg. fingernails ploishing sticks

only downside is time consuming, it requires lots of patience, but the outcome is perfect
*
ic...then i think it should be my sandpaper not enough grit then...have to getting higher value and a polishing cream, will those solve the scratch marks caused by the sandpaper? btw, i wonder, wouldn't sandpaper deform ur plastic kit surface? asking this from my personal exp...sad experience sad.gif
gundamsp01
post Oct 20 2013, 09:01 PM

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QUOTE(HxiiiK @ Oct 20 2013, 08:32 PM)
^ brushing is fine, use a fine tip brush and just match the color as closely as possible.. it's just to cover up the nub so it's much less obvious
*
ic, thx for ur advise, will take note of this for my next model, will got to tamiya shop to survey the color as well

QUOTE(Khai62 @ Oct 20 2013, 08:36 PM)
You can refer to this method: http://www.pla-zone.com/thread/287/nip-mark-removal-snapfit

Sandpaper will deform your kit somewhat but only if you do it excessively.
*
wow, that's really good end-result of it...seems like need lots of skills, patience, and cautious. tongue.gif

btw, mind if i ask u all where u all get ur gunpla with a reasonable price? as i got my pg strike at the ikano gunpla fair last time, and i did survey at lowyat, and timesquare (timesquare is cheaper (even compared to the fair), but the choices is really lacking, and most of the boxes are not sealed, just my preference, no offense, while lowyat, the lineup is more complete but the price is higher, for eg: pg strike is RM30 more expensive than what selling at ikano fair) notworthy.gif
gundamsp01
post Oct 20 2013, 11:57 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Oct 20 2013, 09:30 PM)
try? I've been buying online for long time d la  whistling.gif
*
mind to tell which website? as i browse through the forum, if order from HLJ will be taxed when it goes through the custom sweat.gif

QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Oct 20 2013, 10:21 PM)
I like buying from Crux, quick and attentive to customers service smile.gif
*
is that a shop? where is the location? thx.


QUOTE(clivengu @ Oct 20 2013, 10:58 PM)
Usually after i cut with knife.. I'll run over the cut surface with my fingernail a little bit.. then use a bit of water to clean it up.. most of the time you wont see the white spot anymore... that works for me on normal build.
*
wow, that's new. meaning u use water as relaxing agent? interesting...but fingernail really affect that much? coz i tried that as well...didn't help...
gundamsp01
post Oct 21 2013, 12:07 AM

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QUOTE(riku2replica @ Oct 21 2013, 12:05 AM)
Its a shop in kelantan. I know the owner. He has the business online as well.
*
i went to his website, is it not up to date? because the stocks are lacking sweat.gif
http://www.crux.com.my/hobby/allproduct&fi...18=Product+Line
gundamsp01
post Oct 25 2013, 08:18 AM

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planning to buy proto zero from amiami since it is cheaper, and i want to go a level higher by painting it. Planning to get acrylic paints, thinner, top coat from tamiya. I wonder, would it be fine if i use hand brush and apply multiple thin coat on the surface? as i seriously can't afford an airbrush.
gundamsp01
post Nov 8 2013, 07:58 PM

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received my gundam proto zero + hg blitz gundam from amiami, the price...hmm not too bad... tongue.gif

now in search for paint...after watching tons of youtube tutorial video and reading tons of forum, most of them said vallejo model paints is the best for hand brush painting, but this brand is practically non-existence in m'sia...crap...

maybe i can only go for tamiya acrylic paints (i only need flat white and sky grey to give the legs abit more detail instead of everything white tongue.gif) and i know that this brand is designed for airbrush (according to most ppl) but i dont have the budget (or seriously, the determination to spend a fortune in this hobby) or the space at home (or apartment) for airbrushing. so brush + acrylic paints for me, so my current to buy list is:-

tamiya white fine primer (spray can) + tamiya acrylic thinner + flat white + sky grey + gloss coat (spray can) + flat coat (spray can)

according to my recent survey, all of those can cost me around RM170++ shocking.gif

i wonder, is there anyone kind enough to give me some advice? maybe some place to get vallejo model paints? or cheaper alternative? tongue.gif
(i also did read some forum that tamiya coat "eat" the paint layer below it?! oh mai...)

oh, btw, hg blitz gundam is a specimen to test painting on it. tongue.gif

notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Nov 8 2013, 07:59 PM
gundamsp01
post Nov 8 2013, 08:23 PM

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nazrul90 thx for the suggestion!

but if really want to paint gunpla...must i really resort to airbrush? (dont forget about the compressor coz i read that a compressor is needed for airbrush, that is quite costly imo sweat.gif)

and i maybe just a casual gunpla builder, can i just use paint brush? as some pro like the following video use it...not too bad...


gundamsp01
post Nov 8 2013, 08:58 PM

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IC...i dont really want to go too advance first till i have extra to spend tongue.gif

btw, i saw timemachine at timesquare selling mr.colour, is that brand any good? or cheaper than tamiya?
gundamsp01
post Nov 21 2013, 12:07 AM

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from my last experience buying gunpla from japan
mg proto zero 3480 yen around 721g
hg blitz 870 yen around 454g

while shipping is 3100 yen which is the category of 2.1kg, so i think the box is around 925g+-? i think the size of the box also will be taken into factor. tongue.gif

anyway...if based on the calculation the gunplas that i got is something like the following estimation
proto zero 5382 yen (inclusive of shipping) (around RM171.31)
blitz 2067 yen (inclusive of shipping) (around Rm65.79)

while credit card will add in another RM20~RM30 for bank currency conversion at that time.
IMO, if you buy a gunpla while ur 2nd item does not generally add in a significant to the size or weight to ur total item. Then ur shipping fee can be less, if not...i dont think you can save on shipping though.

gundamsp01
post Nov 21 2013, 06:36 PM

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QUOTE(Lacersan @ Nov 21 2013, 09:14 AM)
A box weighing almost 1kg? What did they use? Wood?
*
well for a normal box with a size of 2 playstation 3 boxes...i think it is pretty normal for that kind of weight...besides, the weighting system of EMS does not solely depends on the weight, the size will be taken into account as well. tongue.gif

next model to buy, will be MG gundam X

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Nov 21 2013, 06:36 PM
gundamsp01
post Nov 23 2013, 12:23 AM

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maybe LED gimmick? biggrin.gif

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