hi,sorry to hear ur nightmare. if u r not heavy footed,its always being service properly,then,its really bad. dunno whether this help or not. if u havent checked ur iafm unit,try get them checked,normally the unit is faulty causing high fc. if already checked n even just change to a new one,then need to check with padt the root cause n reset the ecu. sometimes also due to dirty throttle body.

im not saying that saga has excellent fc,but urs seem too bad

my post above for mr mike

hi all,its been a long time not post anything here,dunno whether this relevant or not.

i did ask my friend regarding saga pwr window rattling problem why it isnt solved yet coz still i heard on another forum talking saa pwrwindow rattling sound. he replied that he will get back to me later.

maybe due to workload n recently launch suprima,he mentioned that if its related to pwrwindow,it shud be change under waranty or those who r entitle for 10years, shud do that. he said most of the claim due to malfunction,rather rattling sound.

This isnt official solution,just trying to help. He said maybe its due to the inner part of front fender hitting the car body,metal to metal,since saga has the least sound proving, the sound can actually enter the car through the door from the hole of fenders,which located near dashboard n door swing hinges which can be seen when open the door,causing the sound like metal rattling through the door.

What can do is open the hood, loose a bit the nuts that hold the fenders inside the hood,pull it outwards so that the inner fender wont touch the body,then retighten back the screw.

How to know,just knock or slam the fender using ur palm,not too hard,mind you :-),if there is a loud sound like metal hitting a metal sound,there is a possibility due to road undulation,it cause the sound.

I hope i convey the correct word of his. No harm try,n im sorry if this not working for u. Just trying to lend a helping hand. Bye.

yup,mr mike,u need to send it back to prtn. since u mentioned u change it in 2008, maybe its suffer the same problem. the newly design for iafm+ has a bit diff design internally,i cant remember exactly,but its to hold better thermal that may cause the problem previously. but ecu checking is recomended and tell them ur fc problem. they will look into it.

try out the solution i mentioned earlier which may works for u.

if pre 3rd quater 2012 model,never reflash tcu,maybe need to reflash tcu.

or maybe ur sat control box has problem.

better send it to branch sc to dianose. there r many possibilities though.

no need to take out skirting,just loose a bit 2 nuts near the headlamp,vertically,,u can access that by open up ur hood only. pull or push a bit,(depend where u r during that time),readjust the nut hole,outward,to the side. then retighten back. thats it. i think 5 minute job.

its the side fender where u have the side repeater. left or right,dpend on where u heard the metal hitting sound.

no need to take out skirting,just loose a bit 2 nuts near the headlamp,vertically,,u can access that by open up ur hood only. pull or push a bit,(depend where u r during that time),readjust the nut hole,outward,to the side. then retighten back. thats it. i think 5 minute job.

its the side fender where u have the side repeater. left or right,dpend on where u heard the metal hitting sound.

no need to take out skirting,just loose a bit 2 nuts near the headlamp,vertically,,u can access that by open up ur hood only. pull or push a bit,(depend where u r during that time),readjust the nut hole,outward,to the side. then retighten back. thats it. i think 5 minute job.

its the side fender where u have the side repeater. left or right,dpend on where u heard the metal hitting sound.

sory,how to delete repeated post? its error previously. so,resend it.im really sorry.

sory,my reply to mr david earlier.

em,about front seat,i dont think so. its normaly heard near the ac hole of dash near the door,or door.its around that area. but no harm trying.

oic, just try it out. Who knows it can solve ur problem.

what mr david said about flx cvt is true coz start from 2k rpm onwards, the strategy of the cvt has change where by the character will be more resposive, thats why even u r rev a bit beyond 2k rpm, u will hear it roar n suddenly u feel its alive :-).

Thats why, 3 strategies implimented for punch cvt, 1.6k rpm n below, torque retention, to ease driving at parking lot, to park, n driving slowly around neighbourgoud coz u dont want sudden acceleration, or slingshot or rubberband effect especially during parking.

Next after 1.6k n bfore 2k rpm, the cvt ratio is labour for fuel efficiency, thats why feel a bit lembab :-), 2k rpm n above, change character, from lembab, suddenly roar, it seems that it reach its powerband. Reason, for cruising n overtaking.

Just look at speed when drivng below 1.6k rpm, when driving between 1.7k to 1.9k rpm, and when 2k rpm, u will understand what i said earlier. If understand it, then u will know when to rev below 1.6krpm, when to rev between 1.7k rpm to below 1.9k rpm, and when to rev up from 2k rpm n onward..

Hope this help for cvt flx, whether se or 1.3. Actually its nearly Same as mitsu cvt also in mirage, below 2k rpm is the best, but not too low coz it will reduce torque to assist parking procedure. But of course, cannot beat mirage or even attrage due to 3 cylinders, aluminium n light weight body.

about rolling start also true though due to clutch action, but already found out solution, evp :-), it will be standard across cvt campros soon. By reducing the load from the engine previously need to create vacuum for the brake. Its like the diff in hydraulic pwr steering n eps. Even hydaulic good in feedback, but it take a toll to the engine in town driving. If u r idling, turn the steering wheel to the left n to the right, u will see the rpm drop a bit. This doesnt happened to eps.

Sorry if my word is bad coz im not good at explaining.

oic.gdluck mr david

mr dares,u did have a healthy discussion on hill hold assist earlier to counter the back movement when uphil due to clutch action. hill does have ears.

its for cvt,not at or manual. i dunno whether this is the best gauge to measure,look at which rpm ur car rev at top gear,5th for manual,4th for at, at speed of 80kmh. it is because its the most balance torque apply to the engine to cruise. then,its mean its has enough torque for each gear change. but still depend on traffic though. if can maintain the speed without drops the gear,please do so,but do not labour the engine too much.

like in manual, u r at 60kmh perhour. u need to overtake the car infront. without dropping a gear,u just slam the pedal to max. u just labouring the engine causing more fuel being wasted. better switch to low gear which u feel it got the pulling power,n no need to slam the pedal to max,maybe half throttle is just enough to overtake or accelerate.

that is what it mean to control ur right foot.

its also similar what mr david had done,even assist by vacumm meter. its like eco button,but more on right foot cntrol

nice :-)