For Saga owner, not worth to queue up just to save max RM6.8/tank (theoretical max fuel u can pump in is 34L), go back home to sleep better la, next day wake up start to learn fuel save driving technique la...

Sharing driving experience after 3rd day of undercarriage foaming.

The ride is sooooo much better, NVH reduce alot unexpectedly. I dare to say at least 50% reduction.

Some said the ride will become harsher and bumpy (becos of harden chassis), this is the main reason why i consider so long before i finally did that. But surprisingly NO, why? before that bumpy is just a 'perception' for Saga due to its poor NVH, when go through pothole and coarse surface, the sound of tyre bounce and hit the road make us 'feel' the ride is bumpy. After foaming, the bumpy road become 'softer' now. Nvm, i go to check my tyre pressure tmr.

Handling wise, the body roll is reduce significantly during fast cornering even in my 175/70R13 rim kompang, steering response is sharp and firm. Body swing during cornering (especially when the road surface of the corner is not even) is reduce to minimum.

Overall result: I get my demand for NVH level, body stiffen hence improve handling but without sacrifice comfort at all.

But unfortunately my demand is never ending. When get use to the 'quietness', i will demand more. Really don know when i will stop that.

Sometimes not even a 1st class wormbook eletronic engineer can know the answer, not to say you dun have electronic background at all.

Our car alternator is current limited device, means it generate finite amount of current (unlike our power socket at home, almost infinite as long as the wire can support). Big cap (or high capacity capacitor bank) will draw more current when it start to charge, and it charge slower due RC constant.

Why by putting high capacity VS can help to solve the light dim when compressor kickin??
Becos VS connected directly to the battery, hence it almost act as voltage buffer for headlamp. But be aware, when the compressor kickin, the voltage will dip and VS start to discharge to stabilize the voltage. The fact is after it discharge, it need to charge back as well, so where is the current come from? Alternator?? But if the charge current is reach its output capability due to too large capacitance? How??

It will draw current from other devices, such as your audio system (Because got cap inside too) and other circuit too, or it will overload your alternator. Outcome is more sluggish performance.

So, not higher capacity = better performance, there are still alot of background info that you never know that might bring other side effect. I'm not saying that your VS capacitance is too big, just that your mindset of bigger = better is totally wrong. Remember one of the buyer from your thread who said the car become sluggish after using your VS??

Electronic modification/addon need DRBFM (Design Review Based on Failure Mode), which you need to fully understand the basic of your compnent addon and list down all the side effect, clearly you don't do that because you not even know the basic of it.

Vios 31.8% fuel save yo....

Saga can do that ah? if can i buy immediately.

RM298 can increase 12% HP, the highest CP ratio product in the world, i think can list in Guinness World Record adi...

Saga FC is hopeless, that's why no fuel save device manufacturer can record lower FC with their product.

Where got...Last Saturday i went to KL my single person loaded MT Gaga BLM @ 160km/h want to pickup lose to 1st gen Vios with 3 ppl on the car. He pass me on left lane, very embarassing, think wanna drop to 4th gear to fight with it but scare engine explode.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 4 2013, 10:36 PM

Among the Japanese makes, I personally feel Nissan superior in NVH. Grand Livina, Latio, what i can say is excellent NVH...but don know about the Almera. If i would buy the next car, Nissan will be my 1st choice although the design and performance is so so only.

Not to let you butt hurt, but RM1510 really cut throat.

Mine did at Proton SC as well.

My 99k mileage major service

Here is mine...



This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 11 2013, 10:32 PM

Which labor charge is holy shit?? Timing belt assy labour?

That 180 not only timing belt change, also included water pump and aux belt change...

Then KL is way cheaper...i ask workshop outside, all quote >RM100, thats why i go back Proton to bikin...

That why lo...before this i already 3 years din go back Proton SC...like this case, i just bikin timing belt, suppose should change engine oil together, but Proton SC charge 70 for labour, so after i finished bikin timing belt, just go outside to change EO, RM10 only...

My friend 2009 BLM auto ori battery until now 3 years 9 months w/o add water w/o VS still can start car, i lose...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Sep 13 2013, 11:22 PM