hehehehehe,google up....ours is standard 70 amp...

how u c is 70amps?

samhow kastomer !

ade udang di sebalik tayar 

Wah another female. Good good. More female own saga.

Wahh how come free service?
I also wanted to go outside to service, due to flexibility, but after serious thoughts, rather spend a little for the warranty instead.

Repair till you don't need to claim anything

Those looks like cheap cross-drilled discs to me. Just look at that cross-drill design, they don't even overlap! Striping or banding will definitely occur after using it for a long period.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cr...drilled-rotors/

End of story, cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking than pure slotted or even stock blanks for that matter. Just google it up, people are complaining their stock standard GTR cross-drilled rotors are cracking after a hard day at the track.

A brake disc is a heat sink, but the loss of heat sink mass may be balanced by increased surface area to radiate away heat

nowadays where got pure copper?
70% wants me few hundred/meter 8 gauge only.
alternator XD engine noob can't figure out which is the bolt...ideal condition, ori alternator is insufficient. is not standard 60/70amps i  guess

They aren't expansive, AU$300 only And I understand metal fatigue, I know the crack is unavoidable when rapid expand/contraction happen to an overheated rotor due to wrong choice of brake pad.

Therefore, my pad is only BOSCH standard.
Ah.... So the drill is up to a certain thickness ON the surface without drilling through the entire layer directly to the vent. Thanks for clearing that up. But again, does it really work? I know cross drill is already a myth:

1) Basically having holes on the disc surface can simply means it looks nicer and hardcore for ricers like me, more for decoration.
2) Having cross drilled holes on vented disc to allow water/heat/asbestos channel out through the vents? Generally nowadays brake pads are asbestos free. Water can be easily vaporize as the heat start building up on the rotor itself.
3) Heat remover? According to WIKI
So, how does dimple drill benefit
I tot ori ady 90amp?!

I was a lab technician, work in THEN Malaysia 3rd largest steel factory in 2001 ~ 2003 as British Standard/ American Standard/ Malaysia Sirim/ Japan International Standard product certification officer. Ayam the one and only person in the lab running all the sampling and testing for all the raw materials/finish product, including 25mm steel plate that use to cut as disc brake rotor. So, you may wanna consider my eversof***ing humble opinion Any of those so called "international" standard has a tolerance of 5%, some country(namely the 1 we're f***ing familiar with) allowed tolerance up to 10%. Hence, 25mm - 10% = 22.5mm. I set myself 21mm minimal thickness consider huge tolerance, otherwise I wouldn't be able to find a replacement rotor for the rest of my life. I think GaGa stock rotor only came with 19mm.

Hairline crack happened on the drilled area got 2 facts:
1) The drilled hole pointed at the leaf between the vents. As and when the disc rotor being heated up and expanded, the leaf takes longer to contract when it start cooling down, hence the surface of drilled area will have hairline crack because the surface cool down much faster than the leaf(inner part between the rotor vent).
2) Wrong brake pad temperature will cause every single drilled hole to emit hairline crack. Simple logic, hot expand cold shrink. When you have sohai temperature pad that rated higher than the rotor, ofcourse the rotor gets heated up until fire red, as and when it contract quickly, crack is unavoidable. Try a ceramic rotor, before the disc crack, the heat generated could probably set your absorber on fire already In the end, it boils down to the raw material of the disc rotor.

Would like to understand more on the above highlighted from your previous statement. Which drilled rotor does not drilled through? I'd like to further understand if such technology exist. On the other hand, you can drive lika moron in your Iswaga, you will never create serious crack your disc even if you use ceramic pads. Vehicle weight is the 1 that creates more friction from the pad to the rotor. These are my eversof***ing humble opinion. Over and out.

Reply whatever needed to be reply.

new thread will be up and running at 1200hrs +8GMT on 28/8/2013

semalam sudah bukak new tered ni.
sudah 8.35am new tered V50 masih tutup 

kena tunggu masa bukak ni.. 

apa abs? Titan?

HiLoSoftHardKetukKetampi?

what rs pads u using previously ?

The dimple drilled rotor was invented by EBC back in the 90′s and has been imitated by many because of its ability to offer pad degassing without “Through Drilling” disc or rotor holes which has been shown to promote rotor cracks.

anyone know better choice of alternator to replace the ori one?(higher current but can fit without extreme modify, going ICE)

Hi, I am a noobie here.
Got a question.

I'll be away for business trip for about 10days,
is it OK to left my flx idle during that time?
Any experience leaving your car idle for a long time?

They aren't expansive, AU$300 only And I understand metal fatigue, I know the crack is unavoidable when rapid expand/contraction happen to an overheated rotor due to wrong choice of brake pad.

Therefore, my pad is only BOSCH standard.

But again, does it really work? I know cross drill is already a myth:

1) Basically having holes on the disc surface can simply means it looks nicer and hardcore for ricers like me, more for decoration.
2) Having cross drilled holes on vented disc to allow water/heat/asbestos channel out through the vents? Generally nowadays brake pads are asbestos free. Water can be easily vaporize as the heat start building up on the rotor itself.
3) Heat remover? According to WIKI
So, how does dimple drill benefit

Although creamic discs are not cheap.