Quaz. Thank you for your feedback I also have experience disc crack but hairline crack like what I posted in my previous post. If I have choice I will choose only slotted because I'm using brembo slotted on my 206 no need to worry about crack.

Endless I know it's good stuff but price not cheap. I have another car using endless very gooding.

I want to give the more affordable stuff a try they could be good stuff.

V12 AFI I got quote 440 from kl also. Here cannot find la.

I buy on THICKNESS minimal 21mm for any slotted + drilled vented disc, I don't really care how they drill it. Thickness is the key when going downhill battle.



AXT Turbo Australia

Fulamak. High end stuff this one. But 100% gooding. price also very the high end.

lol... I guess we get quoted from same supplier...

David. AXT don't have for gaga. IMP and AFI need to ask the thickness since i don't know how thick are they.

don't care how thick, if completely drilled through, prepare for cracks. at least that's what everyone's been telling me.

i also don't believe (since compared to their driving mine's gentle as hell already, honest) until i get the cracks myself

gonna get Rapid stop 500c pads soon... saving money... need it for long journey very soon...

u drive like mad ppl give u what pad what rotor also die mia la... -.-

the cracks on mine are no where like those "mad ppl" or the horror pictures that you can google. however it is happening, and it'll only go downhill from now on

food for thought:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-...-dissolved.html

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cr...drilled-rotors/

https://www.google.com/search?q=cross+drill...iw=1920&bih=959

=edit=
my EBCs are around/over a year, still got way more than half as opposed to another brake pad i've used

ps: among my friends that are into motorsports anyways, they'd recommend RS800 instead if you still insist on RS, and don't mind the rotor wear/brake dust.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 28 2013, 01:12 AM

what rs pads u using previously ?

I was a lab technician, work in THEN Malaysia 3rd largest steel factory in 2001 ~ 2003 as British Standard/ American Standard/ Malaysia Sirim/ Japan International Standard product certification officer. Ayam the one and only person in the lab running all the sampling and testing for all the raw materials/finish product, including 25mm steel plate that use to cut as disc brake rotor. So, you may wanna consider my eversofucking humble opinion Any of those so called "international" standard has a tolerance of 5%, some country(namely the 1 we're fucking familiar with) allowed tolerance up to 10%. Hence, 25mm - 10% = 22.5mm. I set myself 21mm minimal thickness consider huge tolerance, otherwise I wouldn't be able to find a replacement rotor for the rest of my life. I think GaGa stock rotor only came with 19mm.

Hairline crack happened on the drilled area got 2 facts:
1) The drilled hole pointed at the leaf between the vents. As and when the disc rotor being heated up and expanded, the leaf takes longer to contract when it start cooling down, hence the surface of drilled area will have hairline crack because the surface cool down much faster than the leaf(inner part between the rotor vent).
2) Wrong brake pad temperature will cause every single drilled hole to emit hairline crack. Simple logic, hot expand cold shrink. When you have sohai temperature pad that rated higher than the rotor, ofcourse the rotor gets heated up until fire red, as and when it contract quickly, crack is unavoidable. Try a ceramic rotor, before the disc crack, the heat generated could probably set your absorber on fire already In the end, it boils down to the raw material of the disc rotor.

Would like to understand more on the above highlighted from your previous statement. Which drilled rotor does not drilled through? I'd like to further understand if such technology exist. On the other hand, you can drive lika moron in your Iswaga, you will never create serious crack your disc even if you use ceramic pads. Vehicle weight is the 1 that creates more friction from the pad to the rotor. These are my eversofucking humble opinion. Over and out.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Aug 28 2013, 01:18 AM

Ah, you've indirectly confirmed the incompatible pad & rotor theory that I had in mind.

Lol brake discs for me just use TRW blanks. Lasts literally 10x longer than cross drilled and you won't be pushing your car to feel the difference anyway. Brake pads get EBC. MKT is more or less like stock pads and I have bad experience with RS. Just get the EBC Ultimax.

Those looks like cheap cross-drilled discs to me. Just look at that cross-drill design, they don't even overlap! Striping or banding will definitely occur after using it for a long period.

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cr...drilled-rotors/

End of story, cross-drilled rotors are more prone to cracking than pure slotted or even stock blanks for that matter. Just google it up, people are complaining their stock standard GTR cross-drilled rotors are cracking after a hard day at the track.

EBC's discs are all dimple-drilled.

anyone know better choice of alternator to replace the ori one?(higher current but can fit without extreme modify, going ICE)
engine noob here...dun juz gv a code number la...like how should i ask at chop shop...that would be better.


what is tat rubber for?

This post has been edited by yscsiew: Aug 28 2013, 02:23 AM

u may try +ve charge alternator cable to battery b4 u start to change the alternator to a bigger1 coz it will make ur car no power...pure copper cable for ur amp is important too....

AFI looks nicer,lol....

prevent water from entering your air intake system.

nowadays where got pure copper?
70% wants me few hundred/meter 8 gauge only.
alternator XD engine noob can't figure out which is the bolt...ideal condition, ori alternator is insufficient. is not standard 60/70amps i guess

hehehehehe,google up....ours is standard 70 amp...