Wow, it's like a viva pretending to be a kancil.

apa tu god car?

What car is that BLM ka?

headlight is BLM mia mah...bumper is Dugong.....this one confirm tiger go rape dugong geh result..

Gaga sifu, kenji, david, mahihi....mau ask a bit
AFI RS cross drill or IMP cross drill? anyone have experienced using any of these 2 because I'm firing up my brake project but don't want to blinding buy stuff and end up bad...

For brake pads, I'm in between these 2 Bendix Ultimate or Rapids Stop 500C pads. Both have very good review and suitable for the occasional spirited driving and track.

For the braided hose and brake fluid, I already decided. Going for ProRs and Endless DOT4.

SUCH COINCIDENCE YOU POPPED THE X DRILLED QUESTION

thundergod_cid 2 disc cracked within 3 months
mine, although more than a year or maybe 2, however today i noticed there's hairline cracks coming out from the x drilled holes.

personal advise? if you hate seeing cracks on your disc, stay away from x drilled.
both me and elton (well, was. he using fake jun now lolz)  are on IMP x drilled

for brake pads, EBC green stuff. or Ultimax if you don't mind brake dust and want to save a bit (actually save a lot, almost half price lol)
RS... nope. lol. less 9 month habis, worn my rotor like hell and needed to skim disc, and there goes my pretty slots (skim until almost tarak)
faded numerous times down hill from genting and one time it was so bad the pads couldn't recover and i had to stop on a flat terrain on karak highway (front wheels smoking like crazy until my FWS fogging up a bit)

never such nonsense on EBC. and i'm still the gentle driver compared to certain folks that glow their discs *cough nightstalker1993 cough*

ps: if you're going endless DOT4 brake fluid, never considered their brake pads instead? lol
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Endless_Brake_Technology_Europe
japan x europe

the cracks on mine are no where like those "mad ppl" or the horror pictures that you can google. however it is happening, and it'll only go downhill from now on

food for thought:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1437513

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/suspension-...-dissolved.html

http://ebcbrakes.com/articles/dangerous-cr...drilled-rotors/

https://www.google.com/search?q=cross+drill...iw=1920&bih=959

=edit=
my EBCs are around/over a year, still got way more than half as opposed to another brake pad i've used 

ps: among my friends that are into motorsports anyways, they'd recommend RS800 instead if you still insist on RS, and don't mind the rotor wear/brake dust.

I was a lab technician, work in THEN Malaysia 3rd largest steel factory in 2001 ~ 2003 as British Standard/ American Standard/ Malaysia Sirim/ Japan International Standard product certification officer. Ayam the one and only person in the lab running all the sampling and testing for all the raw materials/finish product, including 25mm steel plate that use to cut as disc brake rotor. So, you may wanna consider my eversof***ing humble opinion Any of those so called "international" standard has a tolerance of 5%, some country(namely the 1 we're f***ing familiar with) allowed tolerance up to 10%. Hence, 25mm - 10% = 22.5mm. I set myself 21mm minimal thickness consider huge tolerance, otherwise I wouldn't be able to find a replacement rotor for the rest of my life. I think GaGa stock rotor only came with 19mm.

Hairline crack happened on the drilled area got 2 facts:
1) The drilled hole pointed at the leaf between the vents. As and when the disc rotor being heated up and expanded, the leaf takes longer to contract when it start cooling down, hence the surface of drilled area will have hairline crack because the surface cool down much faster than the leaf(inner part between the rotor vent).
2) Wrong brake pad temperature will cause every single drilled hole to emit hairline crack. Simple logic, hot expand cold shrink. When you have sohai temperature pad that rated higher than the rotor, ofcourse the rotor gets heated up until fire red, as and when it contract quickly, crack is unavoidable. Try a ceramic rotor, before the disc crack, the heat generated could probably set your absorber on fire already In the end, it boils down to the raw material of the disc rotor.

Would like to understand more on the above highlighted from your previous statement. Which drilled rotor does not drilled through? I'd like to further understand if such technology exist. On the other hand, you can drive lika moron in your Iswaga, you will never create serious crack your disc even if you use ceramic pads. Vehicle weight is the 1 that creates more friction from the pad to the rotor. These are my eversof***ing humble opinion. Over and out.