Hey there! I'm extremely impressed by this thread! I've had it open in my browser since forever checking it over and over again.
I've got two Gigaworks S750 sets that I'd like to repair. I really like these sets and have used them alot, but sadly they are both broken now. I tried replacing some of the components when the first one broke, but it wasn't enough and it broke again immediately.

I've read through this entire post, trying to pick up as much as I can. I don't know much about electronics as I would like to, but I think I can manage to clean and replace the components required, or get a friend to help me out.

I've created a list which I think is complete of all the parts suggested by OP and I'd like to make an order, but I'd really like to get all the needed parts in the order the first time so I don't need to make multiple orders. I need to order from the US and live in europe and shipping is quite high.

What I'm really wondering is, if you could check the list included in this post and see if I've added all the correct components and correct quantities, and if I'm missing any other ones that could be required for one complete repair job? I'm thinking I might as well replace all the old cheap brand capacitors so that these will last as long as possible when I've repaired both of them. I will order 2x the amounts ofcourse since I have two sets and probably a few extra of most of them just in case.

My list can be seen directly at DigiKey by this link: http://www.digikey.se/short/3ht51q

And here is the list in text:
2 1189-1042-ND CAP ALUM 330UF 20% 100V RADIAL
1 478-5096-ND CAP CER 0.1UF 50V X8R RADIAL
10 100QBK-ND RES 100 OHM 1/4W 5% AXIAL
1 IRF740PBF-ND MOSFET N-CH 400V 10A TO-220AB
10 A106002CT-ND RES 10.0 OHM 2W 5% AXIAL
4 493-7851-ND CAP ALUM 470UF 20% 200V SNAP
1 P13680-ND CAP ALUM 68UF 20% 450V RADIAL (Not sure about size of this one?)
3 1189-1019-ND CAP ALUM 1000UF 20% 100V RADIAL (These might not be needed, but good for long life, correct?)
5 UPM1V221MPD6-ND CAP ALUM 220UF 20% 35V RADIAL
2 493-1547-ND CAP ALUM 47UF 20% 25V RADIAL

Really appreciate the help!

This post has been edited by jsmars: Aug 24 2016, 01:18 AM

Thanks a lot of checking my list! I've replaced the components with your suggestions, since I'm a novice I'd rather go with the safer bet. I've made an updated list here (containing enough for 3 subs), the customer reference is the amount needed for each sub. I'm not sure if I got those resistors from this thread or a friend of mine who looked at the sub, since they aren't that much I'll get them and see if I need to change them or not. All should be covered now right?
http://www.digikey.se/short/3htn1f

Also for the part I missed, is there any part that would have longer than 3000 hours? The other parts I have range between 5000-1000. Would for example this part work?
http://www.digikey.se/product-detail/en/ni...16-1-ND/4320150
It's a bit bigger and has a different ripple current and impendence, but the rest is the same. Not sure this moment where on the board they fit and if there is space and if those attribute differences are ok?

This post has been edited by jsmars: Aug 24 2016, 03:45 PM

Hey, I'm working on soldering on my first set now that my components have arrived. Looking over my list I haven't actually found the location for two of the components.
* I've only found one of the 47UF 25V, the one next to the 35UF 100V, where is the other one?
* The only 0.1UF 50V I can find is a cylindracal one (similar to the others), but the one I've got on my list is a small yellow ceramic capacitor (this one: http://www.digikey.se/scripts/DkSearch/dks...81768803203599). Is this the one I should replace? Is that ok that they are so different?

Thanks for any help!

Interesting! I actually looked under that rubber tubing and found a Yageo 47UF 63V. Could it possibly be that this one isn't an original? This set was actually in for repairs a number of years ago, but I only noticed one other fix that they actually did, but could I be sure that this one is also part of that fix then? Should I leave it be or put my 47UF 25v there? See picture. Also, is this tubing important to get back?

Also one more question: On my list I had 3 1000UF 100V, but looking around I can only find two of these, one on each amp. Is it just 2 or am I missing something?


Attached thumbnail(s)

Just wanted to give an update on my progress. Got both sets working now! One has been running for a week, and the other just got finished and has been running for a half an hour or so, so it seems like they both got at least a bit more life!

Huge thanks and appreciation to everyone helping out in this thread! It's amazing that there are people like you

It will be interesting to see if this "double click at start" error comes back, I've had it on both. So it will be interesting to see if the 63V instead of 25V helps as asenrzhang mentioned it could be.

I guess my victory was short lived. I revived both sets and they worked fine for a few weeks now under continuous use of many hours every day. I unplugged first set and mainly used the second after I fixed the second one. Then today I hooked in the first set where it's meant to be set up. The green light turns on, standby on the control pad, powers on, everything seems fine, except that no sound is coming through at all. No noise or anything can be heard even if you turn up the volume a lot, and nothing is heard even if touching the input cables (usually some static can be heard).

I opened up the set and looked it over, but I can't find any damaged components at all. I changed pretty much all recommended components (all cheapo brand stuff, except the smallest ones which there are like 50 of on the amp boards).
The only thing I noticed is that the bigger heatsink on the powersupply (connected to the mosfets that I changed) was quite hot even after only testing out the system to try and get sound for a few minutes. Is this normal?

Any ideas on what is wrong and what I can do to fix it?

Interesting! I will have to try this as well. In the same way you describe it having self healed - mine stopped working after being unplugged a few days, if something did not pop when I started it after plugging it in of course, but I had turned it on off atleast once or twice per day for a week or so. So hopefully mine will follow the same path as yours! Fingers crossed!

Thanks for the tips! I tried leaving it unplugged for a few days now and plugging it back in, at first again I was overjoyed - it worked! This time I was sure I had music streaming directly and heard it came through nicely, but after about 30 seconds there was same in-out fading, like a soft flicker, the music turned low for a half second or so, then dissapeared, then came back a second later, it did maybe 3-4 times before dissapearing completely.

I do hear the clicking noise when turning on & off, but I couldn't find any leakage on the amp boards.. but it's probably quite hard to see as you say, should I do a more throughout search maybe or what do you think it could be?