It should be okay.
Just pay attention of size of the capacitor.
Usually it will be either taller (Height) or fatter (Dimension), so pick a same size & high ripple current & long life & genuine one could cost some time.

WOW, is that really so easy? I'm more like a computer software guy rather than a hardware guy, drilling & gluing & wiring means it's hard to me

Usually, I stay with the default 4 (||||_ _ _) volume, and I didn't feel much heat in nowadays (I mean, winter/spring), but I do feel much heat in summer.

I guess music with low frequency may help the air flow across the box, you can feel the air flow at the inverted cube (the big hole on the left side). On the other hand, play low frequency music may cost more power, hence more heat are generated .

WOW! 100 times in a row and no 'clicking' issue, that is amazing!

By the way, did you glued the capacitors on the other side? I'm worried about they may be affected(loose) by vibration and heat.

What material are y.., How did you..., Wait, what? That's not just a comprehensive upgrade, THAT IS ALMOST A COMPLETE RECONSTRUCTION!!!

I feel my blood got boiling when I scroll down and seen more photoes


Looks very nice, clean, elegant, and nice wiring.


Nichicon MUSE seems expensive than others, and this MF7010 subwoofer needs 32 of them.
Do you feel sound quality improvement after replacing these capacitors?

Does the color of wires between PSU board and APB board means something or it's just random color?

Again, Nice wiring!

Detachable wire, that will make life convenient.
And thanks for the model name of pin header (housing): XH (2.54mm). I may try to replace it too.

Can't believe you replaced the switch too.

There're two dark green stuff on top of each transfomer, What is that? And what are they used for?

How do you custom the heat sink (drilling), all by yourself, or bought from shop which provides customing service?

I see Nichicon GR series capacitors, which has longer life (10000 hours) than GX series (5000 hours), but I can't found a seller selling this one on local internet market (taobao).
Ripple current is slightly lower (1.4A) than GX series(1.55A), and a little bit taller (40mm) than orginal one (35mm), is that ok?

Wait, L11 unsoldered? Only one leg connected to board? Does it work?

Working temperature when power on is around 35-40°C? That's a WOW!

I have no idea about 2-3dB louder, but that sounds good.

About the sound absorbing cotton, does it prevent fire? I mean, if, if there's a spark occured in it sometime for some reason, will it burn the box?





By the way, had you tried to replace those operational amplifier chips on APB boards? There're fourteen '072C' and one another on it. The guy whom I'm fixing for want those op-amps to be replaced too, but I don't know what I'm doing if replacing them, and I have no strong feelings that replacing op-amps will improve sound quality. Also, after read some posts, I known oscillation issue may occur after op-amps been replaced. Like I said, I don't know what I'm doing if replacing them.

This post has been edited by asenrzhang: Mar 30 2018, 05:33 PM

You're my hero!

Thanks a lot! These information are very helpful!

Don't know why it's designed like this. I guess it's useful, but it's out of my knowledge.

Okay, that sounds safe enough. Do you have any brand recommendation for it? I found some on local internet market (here, here and here), but I'm not sure about their quality.

Okay. I'll try to explain to him. He said he want to reduce the 'digital taste' of Creative products by replacing op-amps, and he had already bought modified Creative sound card which op-amps beed replaced by the seller.

So, did you reconstructed all these S750 units?

This post has been edited by asenrzhang: Apr 5 2018, 12:32 PM

Okay, I may try the second one, it has glue on one side.

That's (a looooots of work) * 5.
I guess your project will become PetaWorks in the future of future.

By the way, where did you got these units and the individual boards and loud speaker? I only got one extra failed unit from other guy in same city, I couldn't even found one on internet market. I noticed there were some units selling on eBay occasionally, but the shipping cost is too much, or they don't even support shipping internationally.

Does the bass speaker need to be repair too like the second fixing of @lex ?

Do you still around here?

I just finished repairing the third S750 subwoofer. In this case, I have encountered same issue as yours -- Q3 Q4 failed either instantly or after a few minutes after press the STANDBY/POWER button.
After long time diagnosing, I may found the problem: Soldering problem, either the G pin of S pin has soldering problem, which is not conducting well or not conducting at all, and it may cause the higher voltage between D and S -- I have check the voltage of C59 and C69 once, and I got around 300V using my cheap multimeter (while voltage of C60 C70 capacitors are almost 0V). I guess the peak voltage could higher than the breakdown voltage (400V) of Vds of IRF740.

After fixed soldering carefully, the pin is conductive with the solder pad, now I have revived it, and I have kept it working for hours without problem.

By the way, this set was repaired before, and the TO-220 oxide aluminum heat-conductive pads were replaced with thinner (1mm) one, which is not right, it should be 2mm. I guess it could make a slight stress on the pin and pad which is not good.

This post has been edited by asenrzhang: Apr 19 2018, 12:23 PM

Congratulations!

By the way, which model of replacement for C61 did you choose ?
A long life one will save your time, such as
- Rubycon TXW 450V 82uF (or 68uF), which has 12000 hours lifetime.
- Nichicon CS 450V 68uF, which has 10000 hours lifetime.