Hello, problem with the standby power section, can you measeure the output voltages? Check C6, C61, C8, D10, C63, D13, C62, D26. Capacitors need to be checked for capacity and ESR.

Ok.. But which card ??

PSU board.

Thank you. Refreshing solders on one of the devices solved the problem. But it's a little different on the other device. Everything plays well. 15 minutes later. Clicking sound is coming from relay and it turns off. After 5 minutes, it is getting better and playing. Problem after 10 minutes. I think he does it when it gets hot. And when he does, the green light is blinking behind him.

Hi Guys,

I've learned so much reading here, from time to time I come back here to read the new posts.
My Sub died on me, time for the overhaul, going to mod the PSU like the (legendary) MichaelD did. Parts arriving next monday I hope.
My only question so far is, what is the recomended wattage to remove the snapins? I don't want to rip the lands or the tracks and do a bad job.

Thanks for all the teaching!!!

Relay clicking issue fix:

FG20X7R1H106KRT06 CAP CER 10UF 50V X7R RADIAL added another C63
FK26X7R2A104K CAP CER 0.1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN
FK26X7R2A105K CAP CER 1UF 100V X7R RADIAL added between TOP243Y's C and S PIN

I think my problem this..
But i didnt understand top243y c and s pin

Think the same problem with the stby section of PSU board, bad caps.

Hi, there is no recommended wattage, just powerfull enough with thick solder tip to heat all solder in a short while. I've used cheap 40W soldering pen with thick tip. The snapins are tight seated in the holes so i think there is always the risk to damage the tracks and holes, but are easy repairable. Good luck.

Here is the pin marking for TOP243Y



Or check my post in this topic find "Mar 13 2018, 10:20 PM"

This post has been edited by MichalD: May 7 2020, 02:47 PM

I used a 60w iron, the snapins are a pain to remove, but I did it. Unfortunately the glue damaged alot of tracks that I have to rebuild also caused some shorts, I have to replace D9 with a 1N4007 instead of a 1N4004. The tracks between C70 and C69 are gone. Is there any type of Lacquer you recomend to increase insulation?
On the mosfets on the primary side, can I use silicon insulation or do have to use the ceramic ones due to capacitance? They are too britle.

Thank you.

Relay doesn't click. On CN6 I have 5vdc on pin1, maybe C53 is pulling the voltage down or 7809 is not working properly (I have 12Vdc on the input).
Also missing +-24 on CN4 and 5
Some pointer would be great, I can't remember the last time I had to repair a circuit.

Thanks once again.

Just standard PCB lacquer is enough. For the mosfets i've used new Al2O3 aluminium oxide pads for TO220 package with heat conductive paste on both sides. Beware of crack, is need to be careful.

Can you check U4 outside the PSU board? The same with U3 and U6? If will be OK test the caps, resistors and diodes in the path from T3 to CN's.

Do you have red light on on the control pod?

I have a green light on the control pods

I have the proper voltage on the input of 3 voltage regulator, on U6 there is no input voltage, I checked R45, no voltage either, is possible I have a broken transformer?

When I get home with a soldering iron I measure them outside the circuit.

Thanks.

About broken transformer i never heard about it in this PSU, but everything is possible. For the broken T3 winding for U6 check the resistance or continuity between D19 cathode and CN6 pin 2, there should be very small resistance around 0,33 ohm incl. test leads. If there is no or large resistance there is a problem. Check for damaged track or bad solder joint on the PCB.

This post has been edited by MichalD: May 11 2020, 06:14 PM

Working again! My problem was a shorted D9 (replaced to 1N4007)
C53 was pulling 9vdc down, no voltage to drive the relay.
Also had a broken track before R45, reason why I had no -24vcd
U3 was dead, but I had a 24V Psu lying around, easily fixed.

This is a PSU from hell!!!
Ordered your part list and some other stuff I want to change, Do you recomend any silicone to hold the caps in place?
Now to take all of the glue from the remaining boards

Correct me If I'm wrong, long time I don't repair anything like I said, Looking at the schematic I would say these are 3 psu on a single pcb, correct? AUX psu controls the power up of PSU1 and PSU2, I could remove the control board and drive the amps directly. (my control board looks awful, full of brown glue)

Thank you!

Hi,

New problem, I hae voltage, relay clicks, power goes in the amps, but no sound, not even noise om any of the channels
Dead APB?.
Control pod looks to be working, leds go up and down, but no sound.
How can I troubleshoot this?

Thanks

For the silicone i've used MAMUT GLUE, but you can use non corrosive silicone suitable for contact with metals.

Yes, this is PSU from hell, but despite of it's complexity it is relative easy to repair.

This is one combined PSU containing 3 transformers. T1 and T2 powers the AMPs and T3 is for standby section/control pod/audio processing board power. Don't know if the T3 section is connected with T1 and T2 section in the schematics. Don't see any connection for some kind of feedback or control, i think it is independent section or it is connected somehow by the audio processing board (schematics missing). I am not enough skilled in this field.

I think you can remove the APB but you will loose all the control which is provided by control pod. You need to make your own pre-amplifier.

This post has been edited by MichalD: May 13 2020, 02:48 AM

Hi, check all cable connections if they are in proper positions, did you removed the old glue from the APB? If yes check for damages, poor contacts, broken traces. Have you tried audio input from the control pod?

This is hard to deep troubleshoot without an osciloscope. I want to make the schematics for it with all the pins description, but it need tons of time...

Hi,

Thanks for the quick reply.

I think I still have problems with the PSU, no noise, no hissing, on both Amp boards.

Can you tell me what are the proper voltages and pinout of CN5 and CN4? I don't have the complete shcematic of board.

Thanks.