correct.

AH HAH! so you're not the first owner. that explains it.

you DO NOT NEED a bad accident to change the damn roof/rear bonnet. nor is it detectable unless your eyes damn cun (or you sand down to the bare metal/removed the cabin/interior roof trimmings) or the person who replaced/resprayed the roof did a damn horrible job.
ask ANYONE who owned the early generation saga/iswara/wira, everyone will tell you that their roof will eventually bubble (yes, my car is 14 years serving my family, from my mom passed on to me 1st hand until this very day never sold)

again, nothing to do with how one uses the car, or how the paint is being taken care of. the PROBLEM is due to shitty glue/sealant used to seal the chassis support beams to the roof metal plate (as with the rear bonnet) and THAT is what caused the rust. and once the rust builds up, it has to release iron oxide/carbonic acid which will cause the paint to bubble and eventually puncture just so it can release said chemicals.
you can SAND DOWN/AWAY the rusts however if you do not solve the root cause of the problem (shitty glue), you will eventually have to deal with the problem again in a few months(especially if it occurred before already)/years time.

can refer to this damn old ZTH thread i googled up la:
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/car...-roof-rust.html

i personally can't remember if hardened bitumen was the original glue (i haven't done mine so my roof is STILL bubbling as we speak) however if your car is not having bubble, something has been done. (which may include but not limited in the glue removal, or even the roof replaced that you have probably missed)

what you're referring to could be chamois, however wouldn't those cloths be used for drying purposes?
i could be wrong on what organic cloths that is however from my detailing knowledge, only organic cloths would be chamois, be it natural leather (much better, although expensive lol) or synthetic ones.

not that i'm calling you a liar or anything, chances are you're probably unaware of the situation (or your problem has been fixed before you got the car or even after you got it as you've done repairs) as EVERY earlier batch of proton users (bear in mind your car is 1996 while mine is even later which is 1999) faced rust/bubbling issue on their car, NO EXCEPTIONS. heck your door panel rusted, no? those don't even have those dreaded glue on them btw

btw, i don't start out with expensive waxes too (not that i'm exactly using very expensive waxes considering i do detailing as a hobby, true enthusiasts can spend WAY MORE than i do)
the turtle wax i start out is probably even cheaper than your soft99 and i STILL HAVE YET TO FINISH IT LOL (about 40% to go)
costed me less than rm20 that i've bought few years ago, go figure lol.

btw you forgot to censor the number plate for the wira

as for FC, well, i reap what i sow la, wanting performance even for a 3 speeder auto carburetor. so yeah red lining is pretty much an every deal for me and anything above 3-4k rpm with your accelerator pedal at 100% to the floor is not something anyone is mindful of FC would do

ad08r dah masuk, got sizes for fofi, jom install and pedal to the metal naik cameron. dual clutch POWER ma

ini dia pretend pig eat tiger statements