http://twitpic.com/d2t1x6 + http://twitpic.com/d2fwaw

audiophile/mid-fi gears

thanks, info/full lists in my signature as usual if you're interested

been a damn long while (many years) since i worn my wooden sandals and yukata.

bon odori the last time i've went has been a little stale and the friends i used to go with no longer go so oh wells!

engagement shock. you might as well pre-D and launch your car then

why people wait in their car? waste fuel.

i crank, put d/r and straight jalan. 0 wait. (unless you count the time i put on my sun glasses, press the ON button on my HU, wear seat belts. ok la, wait maybe 1-2 minute lorh, temperature naik sikit, lol!)

no shit weih when a 14 years old (coming 15 years old) iswara is doing "better" (in that regards anyways) than a MODERN FLX

i used to have that for my iswara, because my idle was damn low, in the 200-300 LOL!

now i just adjust it back to 800-900 to save a lot of hassle/vibration after few of my friends/howie advised, never had that issue anymore haha

LOL im using that to further seal some of my door seals for better sound proofing.

difference is minimal on speed excess 130km/h, however anything below quite apparent haha. and hey, it's ONLY RM5

LOL PROTON

eh lucky their part stockist network quite decent, and lack control compared to tan chong/perodua (just spent monday/tuesday full day at those SC repairing my sentra and recently bought Kancil 660 MT) so i just repair/service my iswara outside (buy original spare parts from stockist at jln ipoh/segambut area, i personally always visit ck wong lol)

aduih red line a bit con lan firm dah optimal temp within the minute LOL

i P/N/D pun boleh. lol no ECU mah

jokes aside, be prepared to deal with valve/rocker cover leaks like i am facing. LOL (my crank/cam oil seals all also leaking too)
pushed the engine hard all day erry day. driving habits = accelerator pedal to the metal or brake pedal LOL

typically yes, iswara ones can be "overhauled" (aka cuci) if the mech knows how to dissemble/re-assemble back, however most mechs would just want you to replace since less hassle, and better potential to chop you on pricing unless you bring own part/go original.

for my own car anyways it was removed since i never had problems reaching optimal temp nor my car has a cat-con to worry about emissions (the car never had one so i didn't remove it ya despite modded exhaust end to end lol) so 1 less part to worry about is always nice.

girl either too timid or just too obsessed with shitty mc d toys.

kancil is an absolute dickhead that needs to get his ncd voided by having his insurance claimed.

tldr: both also shit heads although more so the kancil, i wish his car burns or his d*** severed/injured when his gf go him.

actually yes and no situation, if your EO is of damn high Viscosity index and flash point, having thinner viscosity EO would not induce higher wear and tear so long you're doing it sensibly (eg: if original specification is xw40, max you consider max xw20 or maybe having xw20/30/40 all mixed so it'll end up in the xw30 or so range.)

VI is extremely important so that viscosity does not further thin out further than what was original specified (eg: xw20) so you'll know that your engine is at least getting that viscosity of oil protection film.

again, it comes back to the car/manufacturer's ORIGINAL specification, and then work from there

while i certainly believe LM is a better product, i also think it is not fair to compare xw 30 against xw 40

also, do take note that eneos high end range (sustina) seems to be very convincing and it is API SN energy conserving certified (while LM no longer renew its API license/certification)

the only thing keeping me from eneos sustina is the INSANE high price (300+ for 4 liters) which i might as well go for motul ester core series if im going to spend that much anyways LOL!

unless you're willing to for out HUNDREDS, best is to DIY

do take note, GOOD detailing services cost so much because detailing is an art itself and the more reputation you have, the easier it is you're able to charge a premium. that, and you're paying for the LONG man hours required to do the job

subjective.

shit/cheap coatings will cause more headache than protection, such as heavy water mark/dirt/traffic film build up
and you're stuck with the damn thing for years (if you can remove it easily, where is the supposedly advertised lasting forever/5 or 10 years warranty? LOL )

now for good coating, prepare minimum few thousand, lol.
or, pay few hundred for the product (assuming you can get them as most of these products are ONLY LIMITED to reputable detailers/shops) and pray you don't f*** up the coating process LOL

got, i'm using xw40 mixing xw30 (my original 4g15p engine specification requires xw50) Torco SR-1

first line, not exactly, that's just base oil and not taking consideration of additives or even base stocks of group 4/5.
because more expensive grade (eg SS vs FS, or even FS vs FS) engine oils have more additives, TBN, VI/flash points etc.

you can even look at motul's full synthetic line up, the cheapest are around 170-200 ish/4 liters.
the most expensive ones/flagship of motul are 400+/4 liters.
pricing around or more than double however they are all full synthetic from the same company

2nd line yes, you are absolutely correct. LM FS does not have their MOS2 (molybdenum) additive, which also have ceramic particles similar to ceratec.
hell, if you want to have the best base stock with MOS2, just get the FS + http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ocument&land=DE , and for added measure might as well get ceratec: http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produkt...ocument&land=DE (i've tried it, really good stuff hehe )