- FC dont feel is good, 370km - 380km driving at 3k rpm with 90kmh . Wonder how to improved FC?
New car, give it at least 5000km for the FC to normalize.

- Felt the gear ratio is very closed, any idea or info about 1st-5th gear ratio used?
Under 1.3 IAFM+ model 5MTT200A

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- Done 1st service and did asked the Potong Dealer SC about warranty void for suspension, driveshaft, tranny, crankshaft and etc if we change the besi rims.
Yes. that's why if wanna swap out the rims, keep your rim besi at home just in case so that you can swap back when claim warranty.

- IF we add on ICE and tempted the OEM wiring and void wiring warranty as well. True?
Yes

- Seen any 1.3 saga model upgrade to 1.6 crank or block? perhaps BOT with Haltech as well?
There are 1.6 stroker kit for sale for the Campro.

- Saw the sticky note for spare part list- price shown is from Potong SC,Dealer or normal spare part shop?
Proton SC and authorized SC as well as stockist.

- Btw, What's the purpose of that "Ular Oren" that can improved Throttle Response? Do I need too?
It can reduce throttle lag due to drive-by-wire delay. You don't need it, but it is nice to have.

lol that fc better than mine 20k km flx..am thinking swapping back 13inch steel rim with 175 for fc purpose..but thinking yab blm using 15inch rim oso can achieved good fc make me think twice..lol

u dribe the sv no feel throttle response delay eh? ular really good gc by yab...i see a lot of people in saga fb club bought it...rip off price from other seller...lucky bought from yab..hehe

actually yes and no situation, if your EO is of damn high Viscosity index and flash point, having thinner viscosity EO would not induce higher wear and tear so long you're doing it sensibly (eg: if original specification is xw40, max you consider max xw20 or maybe having xw20/30/40 all mixed so it'll end up in the xw30 or so range.)

VI is extremely important so that viscosity does not further thin out further than what was original specified (eg: xw20) so you'll know that your engine is at least getting that viscosity of oil protection film.

again, it comes back to the car/manufacturer's ORIGINAL specification, and then work from there

while i certainly believe LM is a better product, i also think it is not fair to compare xw 30 against xw 40

also, do take note that eneos high end range (sustina) seems to be very convincing and it is API SN energy conserving certified (while LM no longer renew its API license/certification)

the only thing keeping me from eneos sustina is the INSANE high price (300+ for 4 liters) which i might as well go for motul ester core series if im going to spend that much anyways LOL!

unless you're willing to for out HUNDREDS, best is to DIY

do take note, GOOD detailing services cost so much because detailing is an art itself and the more reputation you have, the easier it is you're able to charge a premium. that, and you're paying for the LONG man hours required to do the job

subjective.

shit/cheap coatings will cause more headache than protection, such as heavy water mark/dirt/traffic film build up
and you're stuck with the damn thing for years (if you can remove it easily, where is the supposedly advertised lasting forever/5 or 10 years warranty? LOL )

now for good coating, prepare minimum few thousand, lol.
or, pay few hundred for the product (assuming you can get them as most of these products are ONLY LIMITED to reputable detailers/shops) and pray you don't f*** up the coating process LOL

Mahihi

Yesterday 149.2km kena reset due to diskonek bat3

Now already 250km+ still got 2 bars left wor

I didn't feel significant improvement on power/torque, aircon become slightly colder nia Voltage has been dropped to 14.1~14.4 from 14.6v. Wondering the effect is from previous 3 tank straight detox exercise or this thing kacaued the FC Or after installed the fuel float koyaked Means my car anytime gonna break down due to stave for fuel

Meanwhile, I think I found where the sound came from, think its my fire extinguisher Detached from the mounting, think that day install side bars, skirting then went wash car at Merz kena detached by the banggalah

Reduce injector response time
Restore voltage lost in chassis
Improve throttle response(not all car have the same effect, but majority does)

lol...sabar....need to run in 100 hours remember???

Urghhhh... not the fire extinguisher Troubleshoot restarted Just dropped 1 bar on the way out

Other than the car, have you take the thing ady? Already past 8pm. Later will email you the full list

Thought that's a MK-II ? How come the windscreen shade printed as JDM geh Probably it's an SR20DET inside

I dont have ar. Lolx


Haha, thts wat i thought.

I'm a heavy footer . usually my drive style is at 120/130kmh @3.5-4k rpm. Meaning to say figure will increase to 400km at 30/L?

Eh.. I did try test on revving the engine without gear in and is LAG! wt.. Also the rpm is higher 100-200 during gear shift. I try release the throttle early before the clutch then don't have this problem. Is it from the clutch spring or cover plate whatever it called.

Should I void the warranty to install all those accessories ? Advise pls.

plausible, but no promise.

How he did that? Any mods or add on?

Sometimes I occur power lost after toll on 2nd gear or 3rd gear below 2.5k rpm. Power only kick in around 2.8k above.

Consider throttle delay? Or is the campro cam profile design to have mid range power?

Usually it does?

taxi spring...

http://www.mudah.my/Spring+NGV+utk+semua+m...GV-17879447.htm