So far I only have black panel line pen because no time go buy other colours and no time to build as well. But my opinion is,
-grey panel line for white plastic surface or any place you don't want the panel line look too thick or obvious
-black can use on any colour surface but not suitable for dark colour surface(because you can barely see it) or white surface(thick feel)
-brown is for dark surface so you can see the panel line clearer than using black panel line, and it is a good colour for camouflage build or weathering kit.
It is worth to try and see whether it suit your taste or not.

This post has been edited by TheGreatBahamut: Dec 26 2013, 05:47 PM

As long as it suit your taste, no harm to change.

Hi, hope these little tips from a noob like me can help you

1. Lazy people don't remove sprues, but I insist to remove because after painting and you remove them from the runner, you will see unpainted part on sprues, what lazy people do is hand paint it afterward which make the result not good because of uneven colour texture. What you need to do is cut the part from runner and clean the sprues by sanding with fine grit sandpaper, then wash the part and let it dry before paint.

2. Primer use adhesive and also cover the original colour so you can get even colour texture over the model. Parts that too small you may skip if you do hand painting.

3. Buy a paint tray and pour your paint and mix with enamel hobby thinner, just do like what you learnt from drawing class.

4. Depends you want handbrush or airbrush, hand brush use enamel is the best, acrylic and lacquer are more suitable for airbrush. Lacquer is the strongest paint, strongest smell and also most harmful so usually people use acrylic paint for airbrush.

Cheers

Well I don't have car models so I don't know the actual size. But I think you no need to prime small part with tiny details on it because they might be cover up after priming and few layers of paint.


Yea, you are correct. I long time no touch model kits forgot those tiny parts really not easy to handle during painting.
Lacquer can be use for handpaint but dry too fast even with retarder and really thick which require more thinner in the end the plastic become brittle due long contact with thinner. I have ruined a kit with lacquer handbrush, now not dare do that again for pro modeler I think no problem la. But since enamel paint is quite good for handbrush and the texture was great, I think use enamel paint is a better choice.

Not sure about this. But logically, if the paint still hard like rock after you mix with thinner and stir it, I don't think the paint still can use. Maybe there is a way but I don't know.