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 Some questions about the stop cork in the bathroom

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TSsw.boutique
post Jun 30 2013, 11:39 PM, updated 13y ago

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I think nowadays every home owners need to conduct water commissioning for their new houses, hence the stop cock installed in every bathroom - is this the reason?

In my unit, every single bathroom has a main stop cork to control the water supply in a particular bathroom. I find it a bit redundant (and it looks ugly) and would like to remove it during my house reno. Is it recommended to do?

This post has been edited by sw.boutique: Jun 30 2013, 11:53 PM
HarDiE
post Jun 30 2013, 11:43 PM

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stop cork.

for maintenance purpose.

if 1 tap is leaking no need to turn off the whole system
TSsw.boutique
post Jun 30 2013, 11:53 PM

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QUOTE(HarDiE @ Jun 30 2013, 11:43 PM)
stop cork.

for maintenance purpose.

if 1 tap is leaking no need to turn off the whole system
*
realised the spelling mistake rclxms.gif

so it is perfectly ok to remove it?
weikee
post Jun 30 2013, 11:56 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jun 30 2013, 11:53 PM)
realised the spelling mistake  rclxms.gif

so it is perfectly ok to remove it?
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Imagine your washroom having pipe leaking, and only able to get repair in the next 1 week (Say long holiday). You have off the main tap for 1 week.

To remove you have to hack it out, if you can hack it out, why not replace with a better looking piece?

TSsw.boutique
post Jun 30 2013, 11:57 PM

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another reason is that although that the stated stop cork material being brass, the valve started to rust already. I took the locking nut off, rubbed it away sand paper and I saw metal core in it, not brass. The brand is VLR and I doubt its life span...
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 12:00 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jun 30 2013, 11:56 PM)
Imagine your washroom having pipe leaking, and only able to get repair in the next 1 week (Say long holiday). You have off the main tap for 1 week.

To remove you have to hack it out, if you can hack it out, why not replace with a better looking piece?
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I consider replacing it with another user-friendly in maintenance alternative before - so now it is whether to completely remove it or replace with a better one.

The original one's valve is fully concealed inside the wall, leaving only valve sticking out, making the replacement of valve tub completely not user-accessible...
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 12:03 AM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 12:00 AM)
I consider replacing it with another user-friendly in maintenance alternative before - so now it is whether to completely remove it or replace with a better one.

The original one's valve is fully concealed inside the wall, leaving only valve sticking out, making the replacement of valve tub completely not user-accessible...
*
All are complete conceal inside with the level for turning stick outside. Rubber can still be change. Maybe if you can post a picture is easier to see.
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 12:04 AM

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user posted image

This is the original valve currently installed, the bottom locking nut securing the valve is now completely hidden in the wall.


TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 12:06 AM

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I edited the walled part as attached... biggrin.gif


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weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 12:10 AM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 12:04 AM)
user posted image

This is the original valve currently installed, the bottom locking nut securing the valve is now completely hidden in the wall.
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That because the initial developer/contractor may have over plaster. Or the valve was installed too deep. So to bypass, you still have to hack it out. After bypass you have to switch off main incoming if anything wrong in the bathroom / the area. And like I say if you can't get it repair fast, the main got to off until it repair.

If this is from your water tank, you need to check if you have main. Some house water tank don't have main (only in the roof), each bath room is independent. And If your valve connect to the water tank, that mean you can't cut the water until your tank run dry.
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 12:11 AM

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weikee, is this the type you are referring to for replacement?




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TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 12:13 AM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 1 2013, 12:10 AM)
That because the initial developer/contractor may have over plaster. Or the valve was installed too deep. So to bypass, you still have to hack it out. After bypass you have to switch off main incoming if anything wrong in the bathroom / the area. And like I say if you can't get it repair fast, the main got to off until it repair.

If this is from your water tank, you need to check if you have main. Some house water tank don't have main (only in the roof), each bath room is independent. And If your valve connect to the water tank, that mean you can't cut the water until your tank run dry.
*
Oh ya! Yes, bathroom's water is from the water tank. Does it mean that the water need to be released from the tank? Or does the water tank has a control?

Axantas
post Jul 1 2013, 01:56 AM

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You can place it above the ceiling, mine was. There’s an exit hole with cover (plaster ceiling) beneath the valve.

This post has been edited by Axantas: Jul 1 2013, 01:57 AM
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 01:25 PM

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QUOTE(Axantas @ Jul 1 2013, 01:56 AM)
You can place it above the ceiling, mine was. There’s an exit hole with cover (plaster ceiling) beneath the valve.
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Hi, you place it above the ceiling but still attached to the wall? What kind of stop valve are you using?

TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 01:40 PM

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I wish to ask also, for these kind of stop cock, what kind of size should I be getting G 1/2" or G 3/4"?

user posted image

This post has been edited by sw.boutique: Jul 1 2013, 01:40 PM
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 12:13 AM)
Oh ya! Yes, bathroom's water is from the water tank. Does it mean that the water need to be released from the tank? Or does the water tank has a control?
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Than your valve could be for all the toilet. Older hosue have one main valve for water tank. If you need to service or fix leaking you got to drain all the water out before you can easly change it.
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 02:04 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 01:40 PM)
I wish to ask also, for these kind of stop cock, what kind of size should I be getting G 1/2" or G 3/4"?

user posted image
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See the pipe size.
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 1 2013, 02:04 PM)
See the pipe size.
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The pipe is concealed in the wall. What would be the best guess? G 1/2"?
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 02:49 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 1 2013, 02:04 PM)
Than your valve could be for all the toilet. Older hosue have one main valve for water tank. If you need to service or fix leaking you got to drain all the water out before you can easly change it.
*
So does the new water tank has this main valve thing?
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 03:25 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 02:40 PM)
The pipe is concealed in the wall. What would be the best guess? G 1/2"?
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I am only a DIY, not expert in this area. Think a profession will know once when he check. Another method I can think of is go up the roof check the pipe at the same location where your valve are place below that way you can check the pipe size going downward.
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 02:49 PM)
So does the new water tank has this main valve thing?
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Tank don't come with any valve. If the installer follow the common standard they will put it in between the tank and outflow.
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 03:28 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 1 2013, 03:25 PM)
I am only a DIY, not expert in this area. Think a profession will know once when he check. Another method I can think of is go up the roof check the pipe at the same location where your valve are place below that way you can check the pipe size going downward.
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I wish I could drool.gif but it is too high... I think worst case I just buy both sizes...

By the way, I am thinking if the original piping is 3/4" and I am using 1/2" stop cork, or vice versa, will it be ok?
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 03:29 PM

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QUOTE(weikee @ Jul 1 2013, 03:27 PM)
Tank don't come with any valve. If  the installer follow the common standard they will put it in between the tank and outflow.
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So the plumber / contractor will need to drain the water tank to do?
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 03:43 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 03:28 PM)
I wish I could  drool.gif  but it is too high... I think worst case I just buy both sizes...

By the way, I am thinking if the original piping is 3/4" and I am using 1/2" stop cork, or vice versa, will it be ok?
*
No you can't. You need to buy adaptor to convert from 1/2 to 3/4 or vice versa. If from 3/4 to 1/2, you are reducing the size and water pressure will suffer.
weikee
post Jul 1 2013, 03:44 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 03:29 PM)
So the plumber / contractor will need to drain the water tank to do?
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Don't know what you want to do. But I am sure a plumber will be able advice you.
TSsw.boutique
post Jul 1 2013, 04:20 PM

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Thanks anyway, I already asked a plumber to come down to advise me =)
Axantas
post Jul 1 2013, 07:59 PM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 01:25 PM)
Hi, you place it above the ceiling but still attached to the wall? What kind of stop valve are you using?
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Normal valve. All my water pipes are above plaster ceiling, then goes down (concealed) directly to all the exits so you will get a bathroom without the ugly look of valve, no future problem of leakage and I understand the location of all my water pipe concealed within walls.

Most plumber or contractor will not do so.
Mr. Unknown
post Jun 2 2014, 11:37 AM

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Hi Members,

Does any1 here know where to buy those cheaper stainless steel stop cock? need a dozen, so I dun plan to go for branded stop cocks..finding a range of lesser than RM30 each (brand is irrelevant)..
thanks
a.n.d.y
post Jun 4 2014, 10:38 AM

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QUOTE(sw.boutique @ Jul 1 2013, 03:28 PM)
I wish I could  drool.gif  but it is too high... I think worst case I just buy both sizes...

By the way, I am thinking if the original piping is 3/4" and I am using 1/2" stop cork, or vice versa, will it be ok?
*
Hi there,

Not sure if you have found the answer..

Stop valve nowadays comes in various attractive design..definitely not like the red handle one u posted tongue.gif

As for the size...usually for bathroom main pipes are 3/4"...i would not recommend converting to 1/2" as it will reduced the water volume for other outlets..

the 3/4" pipes will then be reduced to 1/2" at the outlet (example: shower area)..which will create better water volume from the pipe downsizing..

As for maintenance...u will just need to remove the handle & the cartridge for replacement without hacking the wall provided ur contractor did not over plaster it.

Do let me know if you have other queries...would love to help biggrin.gif

 

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