Sorry, just want to know is 10k service didn't cover tyre balancing and alignment? Will send mine for 10k services soon...

Quite nice FC there. Could everyone else share their FC? I am thinking of getting Cerato but FC is quite a concern for me since I am driving a lot (around 100 km round trip daily). Review from CarBase.my shows a lot of people getting around 10km/L; which in my opinion is not very good.

My driving usually comprise of 50% highway and 50% city, with jam most of the time (due to working in KL) ...

city drive 100% i got 8.6l/100km

Asking on behalf for my relative that bought K3. Can the 1.6 HU upgrade to better one? The bundled one looks ....

any good cny package for Cerato K3? pls pm. thanks.

So I got my car from BuyDirect, he was the only one with the highly discounter 2014 model for the Kia Cerato left. Good service and I was happy with the time taken to explain to me everything once I got the car. Fast and efficient as well. Highly recommended sales agent for Kia.

A question though, I am finding it difficult to stream music to my player via bluetooth. I can pair it fine and I can call and receive calls all great. Just the music is not playing through the speakers. I cant seem to find any switch button as well and nothing in the manual. Anyone managed to get it working? Is there a video or something on this as well. Would be great

Klang guy?

Cerato usual stuff would be the sound proofing . Especially ther rear Boot. Super noisy try sitting behind hehe

Other minor acc including changing the air filter for better pick up or chassis foaming . For handling

Got my car yesterday from Mr. Loh (buydirect)! Thanks for his patient on my flooding text over whatsapp! He really helpful and explain every single features assuring you know about it before hand the car over to you. He gave a good offer too!

Useful information here

Hi, those who are still searching for high discount 2014 New Cerato. Welcome to PM me.

Seriously?? i starting to think cerato is a funny car on FC. No matter how i drive, my best FC on a full tank is 9.1L/100km but that is the readings. From actual, i get 10- 11L/100km, as one full tank i only manage 470KM. So far i've drived 2 tanks full, both are 470 & 480km. 3rd tank is otw but not much improvement, and for the record, i don't hard press the sccelerator / race the car. At times i am even slower than a myvi otr.

I am doing 50% highway and 50% city, i seldom stuck in jams, only 10-15min max.(Subang - NKVE - out sungai buloh toll - SD to work)

To get a reading of 6-7L i think is impossible for me unless i do 85% highway and 15% city. So i think for those getting 8L/100km or below is either the "lucky" group who has the lady of "fuel" smiling at them or they are doing 80% highway.

Anyway i really hope after 1000km service might improve a bit to 8.5L will be happy for me.
If there's a way to know why the FC on cerato car is so diff, is it the break-in period? or is pure kia cerato unstability of the FC, with lucky owners having low FC?

I am not sure if the warranty will void if u change it. But i agree that the HU are a bit out dated compare to those you could buy on the market and replace now. Major set back is the HU don't even comes with a remote and less responsive with finger press (need to use the pen or fingernail), finger press you'll need few times to get it pressed.

Well, expect the more average users/owner statistic which is 9L - 11L/100km or average 10L/100km. Unless you are one of the lucky ones that falls on the category of unexplained low FC group (6-8L/100km ). Especially city drives. No doubt the driving experience in the cerato fells nice

Who here sprayed their stock rim matte black, please share.. tq..

cath got give discount?

FC is dependant on how leg heavy u are. this car can glide on its own quite far, so like if u are reaching the toll plaza say 300m, just let go ur pedal and glide to the toll. majority of us getting low fc is 75% above on highway, that also no jam on highway and the speed averagingly 100kph with cruise control on. even then traffic anticipation must be high so u'll see us go left or right on the highway just to maintain the cruise on. other wise in city u'll average 8to 10L per 100 km. and make sure u reset everytime u pump petrol so u'll get the latest estimates. our car is heavy so stop and go will kill ur fc. try to keep the cover moving as much as possible eventhough slow rather than fast and stop. try driving like lorries hahaha

Hmmm, good points . As I begin to think the fc might have to be the weight, and if doing highways, definitely can get low fc as heavy cars are more easy to glide/cruise. Just be aware of the braking distances as the weight will 'pull' the car forward(had drive a unser b4 and when it cruise 110kmh, fc is more efficient).

Hopefully owners with low fc could share on the driving experience for reference , I think to me getting 8.0L also consider quite good fc already , any fc below 8L I am call him/her sifu , please teach me (besides asking me to purposely run on highway )

For me, my fuel consumption was around 7.8 - 8.2 L/100 KM after break in and till 20K KM service.

At 20K KM service, I changed my ATF, tranny, BMS and ECU reset and it dropped to around 7.4 - 7.5 L/100 KM.

My driving pattern is typically 50/50 highway/city.

After dumping in a bottle of Techron FC cleaner, with a small tank of V-power to clean the fuel system, it went down to 6.9 L/100 KM on my usual route daily. It's now hovering between 6.9 - 7.3 L/100 KM.


Basically for our cars, they are relatively heavy. The biggest consumer of fuel is when you start off, basically when you leave a tol plaza, or traffic signal. The fact that it's so heavy, hard revving doesn't actually contribute much into getting the car moving. You're just spinning the engine flywheel, but the torque converter turbine can't catch up. So the easiest way to save some amount of fuel is, start off gradually from a stop as it's pointless to rev so high anyway.

Other aspects well, just make sure your tyre pressure is right. I normally over inflate mine somewhat. But don't do this unless you know what you are doing.

Fuels, play a role as well. There are some fuels based on my combined testing with others yielded better mileage or trade off mileage for better smoothness. BHP being quite good quality fuels are very smooth but yield somewhat poorer mileage. Caltex being somewhat rougher, yields slightly improved mileage.

Oils play a role. Go for 5W-30 oils rather than 5W-40. Or if you dare can try 0W-20 with some really good additive package i.e Moly in it. And use proper synthetics not cheapo synthetics, they make a difference especially in terms of protection as the oil ages.

If you have not swapped out your ATF after break in, no harm doing so as I noticed slightly improved mileage after doing that. Likely the abrasives material from the break in material was reduced after the change. If you can afford it, go for the original KIA ATF-SP IV. Some places offer Petronas Tutella...compatible to SP IV, but I wouldn't chance it.

Beyond that, know your driving. Our car has a torque converter lock up clutch that links your engine physically to the gearbox under certain conditions, minimizing losses due to inefficiencies of the transmission's torque converter. Under some situations, it is preferable to have it lock up as much as possible, whilst at other times, lock up may not be desired. I'm still trying to best balance this bit. But basically if lock up occurs, you will find you can't glide too far, but if it does not lock up, you can glide slightly further, but at the expense of a small amount of fuel.

How do you tell you torque converter has locked up? Don't quote me on this, but this is what I noticed. Just drive along, say around 80...let go of your throttle. If:

1) you still see your current fuel consumption has a small bar indicating some petrol being used, it means it has not locked up

2) if after letting go the throttle, the RPM drops to a very odd number that's not representative of the speed you are at. I.e if you are going at 90, the RPM should be around 2.3-2.5K RPM. If the torque converter did not lock up, it can drop to 1.xK RPM.

If you can manipulate the lock up to your desired behavior, I'm guessing it can help save some fuel, depending on situation. I.e, if I am on a long stretch, i'd rather have it lock up rather than not as there would be no power loss from the engine to the wheels. It's directly linked.

Hope this helps

Very2 good point bro. The way u elaborate it, i strongly believe u surely a technical man..engineer perhaps

I also prefer it locked up when gliding as it saves fuel (Current FC - no bar). Sometime people still believe that gliding in free gear (Neutral mode) is a fuel saving act, but infact..it's the other way round...

Please pm the the deals. Thank you