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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V46, thread orang gaji ciput

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coolkwc
post Jun 20 2013, 02:35 PM

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My car now clutch tak tak tak during press, engine tok tok tok during rev up, tik tik tik during idle, steering wheel shaft tok tok tok during bump, cornering. laugh.gif No wonder my housemate who study PHD now buy 1st hand Forte la, i bet he saw me pop up the engine hood almost every week mess with this and that, sure loss confident to Proton adi... laugh.gif
coolkwc
post Jun 20 2013, 05:18 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 20 2013, 04:38 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

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This SV purpose is to
1. Clear stock for BLM odometer panel.
2. Clear stock for BLM rear bumper foam.
3. Clear excessive stock for Saga's support bar.
4. Clear stock for BLM N-line boot handle.
5. Clear stock for airbag.

Mean while some parts are out of stock.
1. ABS etc...
2. High quality Proton's made coil mat
3. Door visor.

Anyway, it still better than my 2009 RM36.5k manual B-line BLM in terms of:
1. Safety - airbag 2 vs nil.
2. Better than none rear seat V-bar.
3. 4 power windows.
4. LED combination lamp + LED side mirror turn signal lamp.
5. IAFM+ engine.
6. Getrag GB vs achipokai GB
7. New air filter.
8. 3k cheaper than my car with 1-7 additional items pawns all.

The only thing i hope now is the market value for my car pls drop drastically so i can enjoy lower premium when i renew insurance this September. yawn.gif



coolkwc
post Jun 20 2013, 05:32 PM

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QUOTE(Noobdao @ Jun 20 2013, 05:22 PM)
SV is really super value...I feel that it make the car "empty" and "empty" again....so u can imagine that u driving a car that is naked but in front of ur chest got 2 big air bag~~~haha.... thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
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Why is naked?

1. Airbag, BLM nil vs SV 2? How much i need to fork out for aftermarket one? Even affordable also useless, who dare to add on aftermarket?
2. Again for power windows, no aftermarket work is nicer than ori stock.
3. Unpainted boot handle? Just a <RM100 job if done outside?
4. Coil mat? how much to change for whole car? i dun think is expensive.
5. Door visor?? cheap at outside too.

Depends on how u compare with, if compare to FLX standard and exec you might think not acceptable. But if compare to my car, as i said, no handling, performance and safety are compromise compare to my BLM, just the cosmetic part, so i will say this is real SV.
coolkwc
post Jun 20 2013, 05:38 PM

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QUOTE(garybenjamin @ Jun 20 2013, 05:32 PM)
Get rage vs Archi Pokai

Get rage fuel savvy than archi pokkai, but when change gear will sudden loss powar and chok har chok har~
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Invalid. yawn.gif
coolkwc
post Jun 20 2013, 05:44 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 20 2013, 05:41 PM)
Can someone post the gear ratios of the achipokai GB and the Getrag GB? together with the final drive?
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for 1.3 iafm+ FLX
1=3.545
2=2.045
3=1.414
4=1.108
5=0.878
final drive=3.80

for 1.3 iafm BLM
1=3.333
2=1.954
3=1.285
4=0.926
5=0.755

final drive=4.70

Actually Getrag ratio is longer, however shorter final drive compensate it, thats why in terms of pickup and top gear RPM, both GB only 300rpm difference.
coolkwc
post Jun 21 2013, 09:56 AM

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QUOTE(drfeelgood @ Jun 21 2013, 09:39 AM)
As i promised......

Toyota Vios non Dugong model!
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This remind me of Proton Saga...1st gen Saga until LMST all using same engine. Saga is cheap (<30k) i not mind, but pay premium for a car with same engine for 3 consecutive gen is a big no for me.
coolkwc
post Jun 24 2013, 05:19 PM

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Jun 24 2013, 01:15 PM)
Yes, is this point. Just below the fuse box and behind the battery. If you take off the ring connector you can see the contact surface is painted and not bare metal. For any factory fitted earth they just bolt on the connector without stripping small part of the paints off on the contact. (more work) Plus all the wiring are fitted after the whole chassis is painted. Paint is not a conductive material.

You can see my gearbox mount is painted black form stock.
user posted image
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Just for your information, your car electrical devices won't work if they just bolted the grouding to the painted surface. You forgot that the bolt actually is bare metal, and the bolt thread inside the car body is unpainted as well. So no need to over worry about that. Sand off the paint too much will just make the contact rusted soon.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jun 24 2013, 05:19 PM
coolkwc
post Jun 26 2013, 09:02 PM

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Last time i done by throttle body cleansing (Using 3bond) during 89k service, strange thing is no white smoke emitted when press throttle after spray the 3bond...wonder whether the engine is clean or what... unsure.gif

Anyway, last time they din unplug the battery (if not you are unable to open the throttle to spray inside, unless u push by using finger), after cleaned, they reset my ECU and let the throttle body to relearn the position. After that it solved my cold start RPM hair-wire issue.
coolkwc
post Jun 27 2013, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(GP mad man @ Jun 27 2013, 02:02 PM)
cant, we must go there remind them every 1 week until our wedding day  whistling.gif
he tot still is 50 years ago sleep.gif
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When is ur wedding? Mine Dec this year... brows.gif Still dun know what car to rent for wedding... blush.gif
coolkwc
post Jun 29 2013, 11:34 PM

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QUOTE(ruby1288 @ Jun 29 2013, 10:13 AM)
Hi all, nice to meet all you guys yesterday nite though only for short time. . . need to rush to dinner after bee do bee do which was very nice . .
Not sure who is who either except dares  biggrin.gif

Saw some of you guys did the 3bond thingy as well . .
However, when I saw the FLX did the 3bond thingy, I have some concern on it. . saw the persona (I believe mengsuan's) did it and you need to rev the engine while 3bond is being sprayed into TB. .
As our CVT cuts the rpm at 3k+ rpm, not sure this will have any negative effect due to lack of revving ?

some updates on my COSE trip in the morning. .
1) Vibration sound during slow acceleration from rest / crawl
my vibration sound (I believe it is from what I heard) is still there when slow accelerating from rest / crawl especially during traffic jams. .Acc. to them, they've only tighten the undercarriage, removed my tire and check the brakes part or something like that. . but that bloody sound is still there damn . . . .

Someone in yesterday TT recomended me to ask them check the exhaust '"pineapple pot" as per previous dares experience. . will do that as a last resort, if it still fails, I am not gonna fcking care that sound. . took a day's leave yesterday but still not fixed. .

BTW, does it take long for them to remove, check / change the "pineapple pot" and fit it back ?
can be done in <1 day ?

Noise is everywhere in Saga. If you can heard in cabin, it probably come out from somewhere in the cabin. Mind you, due to cabin is an enclosure, what you heard might not true. Last time i heard my rear left door vibrate, dismantle alot of times myself and fix any possible that causing the rattle, but can't solve. End up is the cabin light cover rattle, solved by just simply tighten it. Then follow by dashboard rattle, end up the source is rear view mirror rattle. Go to SC to solve rattle sound is just waste of time, mostly.

2) Steering turning got spring sound
They said they have removed the steering out, checked it and refit it. . when I first took the car, it was ok, no sound at all. . IINM upon reaching home, when I reverse park, thought I heard it again . .need to 2x confirm . . any possible reason that this is due to the PS oil ? gonna have it changed at 30k and see any improvements. . .

3) Timing belt noise
seems to have timing belt chit chit chit noises (I believe it is and its the same kind of sound that emits from those old Iswara) when I am driving. . it does not happen all the time (but usually when I step gas when cruising) and it only sounds for a while then it will be off. . COSE said they've lubricated the timing belt. . but still got sound when I get back the car. .  doh.gif

This one is mostly caused by belt tensioner. You can change it for around RM300+, but won't guaranteed it can long lasting. Mine already start to have those mice sound during cold start since 20k, until now 92k still yet to change it. This is what foreman told me, don't waste the hard earn money to change something which is bad quality in 1st place. I believe timing belt doesn't need any lubrication, else it will slip, bring more harm than benefit.

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This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jun 29 2013, 11:35 PM
coolkwc
post Jun 30 2013, 03:00 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Jun 30 2013, 02:55 PM)
I think more to block the direct route into the intake so large debris cannot enter (dust will still enter, but not leaves or pebbles)  hmm.gif

jz my 2 kupang  sweat.gif

EDIT: we're talking about this one right??

user posted image
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Not to block rain water from entering when heavy splash meh? unsure.gif
coolkwc
post Jun 30 2013, 04:57 PM

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I noticed when our car radiator fan is spinning while the car is stationary, the hot air is actually reflected inside the engine bay and come out from the gap between the bonnet and grille. I think if we probably seal the intake, then performance should improve abit during traffic jam. unsure.gif

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