I'm currently in a process of repainting my radiator. I've repaint one of my radiators with red ( original color was flat black ). I've gone through the process or sanding off original paint and clean everything. Few question will be ask;

What are the factors that lead to paint chipping after painting? Is it the choice of primer or paint coat or the clear coat. Owh, and its chipped right down to the bare metal.

Or it has to be perfectly cured for several days before handling it?

I've decided that the main probable cause is the primer or the clear coat. My idea is to use normal primer and normal paint coat, but instead of using normal clear coat, I'm planning to use high quality clear coat. My question is, by doing this, does it will prevent from paint chipping afterwards?

More question to come , I can't think of any right now.

Thank you.

This post has been edited by nohal: Jun 8 2013, 02:49 PM

I'm surprised that no one would help.

hye bro.. try to read THIS GUIDE. maybe it will give u some ideas..
.. just trying to help..

Thank you sir for that delightful guide.

Why u go tru the trouble of sanding. Just brush on some paint remover. 2 minutes later just flush with plain water n u get a completely clean rad. Easier n faster than cooking Maggie mee.

This post has been edited by ianho: Jun 12 2013, 11:59 PM

Wow, people do that for rads? For using paint remover on a rad frame that can be removed such as AX series radiator, is simpler than using on a RX radiator.

Thanks, need to read more regarding paint remover.

The fastest way is to soak the whole thing into paint remover. It will dissolve everything depending on how long you leave it in there.

If you want the paint to stick perfectly, priming it would be best. However, we've painted rads with no primer and it will stick just fine. It depends on what paint you use.

What paint brand best to use?

This post has been edited by nohal: Jun 14 2013, 06:24 AM

Off the shelf - Bosco

Tq. What if primer? Same brand?

I've painted two of my radiators. Still need some input for improvements, that's the reason for this thread.







This post has been edited by nohal: Jun 14 2013, 09:06 PM

nice work bro

Thank you. Still need improvements tho.

I'm hoping to do better job on my next radiator. Still need to wait for the stock to arrive before I can paint it.

No primer needed. From the picture your paint job looks fine. Some paint are very heavy and dry very slowly. Which in turns become runny very quickly if you overspray. Those Bosco paint are really good, more impressive than Krylon. The best is still going with HVLP

HVLP? High Velocity Low Pressure?

Bosco can be found at ace hardware? Usually local HW store sells local brand spray paint, which is cheap btw.

Yes, HVLP.

Bosco can be found at certain hardware shop, don't remember where was the last shop found. This is by far one of the best fast drying low pressure off the shelf paint we have used. You can use anchor/ ABC, or whatever brand. Anchor is actually not bad.

I've used anchor for that paint job. Only the primer wont stick perfectly to brass. 2nd radiator I've decided to use nippon clear coat. The finish was so thick, its impressive.

Should I spray this sucka?

hehe go for it dont forget to wax it after spraying, gives it more resistance and a nicer touch

I've been reading and watching videos, after the final clear coat, you can sand it with fine grit paper, I'm talking 2000 fine. Then you can polish the surface, giving it a great finish.

yep . thats what i did last time with my rads. that gloss black look lasted for almost a year and very durable too

Yeah? I'll try that. Luckily you can paint only the shroud for AX radiator. Not messing with the brass part of the radiator. In my experience painting brass was paint will easily chipped afterwards. It must be something that paint and brass not going along well together.

ah rad nowadays seems easier . I had to cover the fins and g1/4 threads with tape before i painted mine last time.

I painted my feser360 gloss black (didn't like the matte color); it was strong as a buck, I remember strapping it with 3m clear double sided tape for mounting at the bottom of the case and the paint was still intact after I pulled it out with brute force

That's an impressive paint job. My RX rad which the shroud can't be remove is a pain in the axe to paint. Stripped the original paint using a sand paper/paint scrapper. LOL. Need to do the same thing as you've done, cover the fins, port hole.



IDK when I can start the process.

This post has been edited by nohal: Jun 27 2013, 01:37 PM