voltage increased ad respond faster,keta ganas ni,dun play2.....

http://www.mudah.my/Campro+Turbo+Kit-21723993.htm

any taker???  

I think i need some of that then...     

Why not?

Assuming you're getting the CVT variant, interst at 2.8%, RM15k d/p

2 years - around RM920 / month

3 years - around RM630 / month

i tot by reducing rear end flex will stabilize the car? no? 

what i mean pointier coz saga hv good handling but tail happy.. right?

Item(s):3max SAGA BLM/FL/FLX FRONT AND REAR STRUT BAR

Package includes:One 4 points Front Strut Bar and one 3 points Rear strut bar that wont makan ur boot space

Price:4 Points Front Strut Bar is RM 150,3 Points Rear Strut Bar is RM 130,if take both at the same time then RM 270(Both Free Installation)

Warranty:1 year warranty on manufacturing defect

Dealing method:COD in 3max factory itself in USJ1 Subang Jaya,Meeting point nearby will be the Esso after mydin,or by postage,Pls do call me earlier for stock availability,tq.....

Front strut Bar Postage fee is RM 10 for Peninsular Malaysia,Rm 50 for sabah Sarawak
Rear Strut Bar postage fee is RM 10 for Peninsular Malaysia,Rm 50 for Sabah Sarawak

Bulking for car clubs is entertained as well as i have done few bulking in the Proton Saga Club thread itself

Location of seller:Klang Valley

Contact method/details:012-3001933(Kelvin)

Age of item:Brand new

---

Item(s) conditions:Perfect

Picture:
                     

Review and pictures from davidke20,after 1 year of usage




Stretch marks everywhere on the 3MAX rear seat brace. Take note that I'm not complaining, but I'm revealing the truth of reinforcement bar's functionality. If you did the reading, you'll know this bar makes my car oversteer. If you know front wheel drive car oversteer can simply mean rear rigidity increased(consider suspension remain the same as before installing bars). I have reduced rear tyre pressure to gain more traction from the rear wheels, and directly imply that my overall traction has been upgraded. These stretch marks are the proof of functionality. The bar does not show any sign of weakness yet, but the painting crack is inevitable as there are still flex on the bar itself. I've heard people said the rear seat panel is so thin and impossible to transfer chassis flex via the bars, and these stretch mark is a lively proof of force transmission.

I have no new review on driving experience, the car is as good as the 1st day I installed the rear seat brace, it's still annoying as the rear part will jump went over speed breaker.There are still the same pros and cons nothing can be hide. You want stock and soft, there you have stock setup kinda cornering feeling. When you have these bars, part of the comfort and your wallet is jeopardized. Peace icon_rolleyes.gif

Review from dares,
I felt the opposite when I installed the bars on my FLX (well except the wallet part). I believe after installing the FSB and RSB, going thru bumps was actually MORE comfortable. Comfortable may not be the right word....the feeling is that you don't feel the rear end bouncing and twisting over the bump, instead it moves as one solid body. The nett effect is that the passengers don't get thrown left and right when going over bumps.

Or maybe the FLX chassis+suspension was not very comfortable like the BLM to begin with unsure.gif

Anyway for all new and old Gaga owners, if you haven't still, I'd consider strut bars to be one of the most essential mod for your car.

more reviews here,

Some photo walkthrough
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry52815637

More sohigh action on the 2nd day, more discovery
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry52824465

Truth of why bars are important
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry53002875

Now with the new Saga Sv,the same design rear strut bar is fitted in as OEM Bar!!!!!so is proven useful!!!!Proton engineers cant be wrong on this!!

Reason for sale:$$

On the side note, rear lower bar is to ensure both travelling arm are keeping their distance. Hence, UR called it MEMBER BRACE, which is a correct term. You may crawl underneath your car and have a good look at the torsion beam, it's an L angle.



The L angle is extended by 2 travelling arm, and the mounting point for that 2 travelling arm was attached to the chassis. UR member brace will be making sure these mounting point keeping their distance. In short, cabin flex will be drastically reduced to minimal, or none. UR rear member brace is highly recommended. 1 thing to take note, there's breather holes on the member brace. For unknown reason, they made 2 holes there. You can choose to seal it off before installation, but it will void your UR warranty. If not, the bar will get rusted over time. If you can find a solution to permanently waterproof the bar, whereas can remove the seal when need to claim warranty/resell it back to UR, then you solved all the problem already. Refer picture below:

at first looking at the receipt,Rm 25,man allignment oni also so exp ah,but then told my fren,they said y so cheap,then they explain to me,they will check ur tyre,bushing,rack bushing...then forgot wat method they use ad,can make ur car straight without touching the chamber,so its cheap ad,coz adjust chamber is Rm 30,and allignment is Rm 15,total Rm 45,lols...

YAB, can u enlightened me how u wire the vacuum metre to the fuse there. TQ.

wish penang has it. ei davidke20 u know any shop in penang got do the on wheel balancing? i went a few CAP AYAM shop, they don have it and then stare at me like WTFBBQ ayam talking about    my problem is steering vibrator upon hitting 120km/h above. sometimes vibrate sometimes not but upon 140 confirm will.

david YAB, can you tell me where to ground the Ular Oren and what size the head for the cable to use for locking onto the car body and negative terminal? thank you what location is best to attached the Ular. can PM me

... Beides of kenjilew, any of u guys added ground cable without NUT? How does it feel by the way? I'm not asking this for fun or spam post, but somehow a DIY accident made me think otherwise

Last year, I added HKS purple GC on Iswaga, the effect was great reduction of harsh idling. The old 4G13 was tuned to 750rpm on idling, therefore its super harsh in the morning. However, after added purple, engine vibration gone! Magically, the "jet" sound on radio has gone!subwoofer used to "burb" when aircon kicks in, all that has gone after installed purple GC. My dashboard used to turned into disco light when turn signal indicator is on, its worst when hazard lights is switched on. All that has gone as GC installed. I was amazed by such tiny affordable mod that gave my old Iswaga new life.

So I bought another few packages of HKS blue GC(purple ran out of stock). I installed it on my Wigra 1.3, no significant improvement, neither on ICE nor engine performance. Another set went to BiBa 850, according to my brother the low end RPM became smoother, but I couldn't feel it coz I'm not quite familiar with that car. Last set went to GaGa BLM. I was hoping some magic will happen since our throttle lag is pain in the butt. It was a great disappointment, there was NO improvement at all. My woofer continue to "burb" as aircon kicks in, light still dim when aircon kicks in. Throttle as lag as usual, WOT took 1 full second before RPM slowly raise. I didn't think much after 2 days using GC on BLM, I took them off and test the car again, NOT suprise there aren't any changes at all with/without GC. I had the GC transfered to Shawie, I "think" the RPM craw faster than usual, could be placebo.

Today, I accidentally left an open ended power cable connected to battery negative pole ON the rocker cover after some DIY project(luckily I always practice pull positive cable first after DIY). I totally forgot it was there and shut the hood. I went out for short drive, buying bread, going out with the kids for a weekend day out. Was driving happily, never reminds me of the jerk when aircon kicks in, never complain the woofer came with annoying "burb" sound. The whole day ride was smooth and I've totally forgotten GaGa has such annoying problem.

Until just now when I was shitting in toilet, nothing to do. Been thinking of something weird happened today, something I SHOULD be complaining but I didn't. Suddenly reminds me I did not notice throttle lag! No airplane sound! No woofer "burping"! No felt aircon compressor kicks in! So I went and check what have I TERmod my GaGa, as I poped the hood to found my negative wire left hanging on the rocker cover with the other end connected to negative pole!!! (Luckily not positive, or the car burnt ady)

ayam seriusly considering izit the blue cable not as efficient as any other power cable? May be the purple better? Izit bcoz previously I don't have erictioh in the engine bay?? Whereas this time so happened the "accidentally" ground cable TERconnected the right place? I have disconnected the "accidental GC" for the time being, wanted to test but home minister won't allowed as todays quota full ady. So tomorrow will pay attention WITHOUT "accidenta GC", whether something wrong with my butt today

"BEM" "BEM"!!!! Wohoo!!!! 300a Power Well 32mm * 5ft made in Thailand. Copper lug * 2. Crimping tool... ... Hammer. Cost

RM18.50

Prototype only. Haven't get the shrink wrap yet. Couldn't find the size yet

Butt dyno:
Smooth throttle response
Low end torque increase
Horse power +10hp

Actual effect:
Throttle response are subjective. My father rev until 3000rpm baru release clutch, according to him there isn't throttle lag at all even the car is stock

Low end torque dun think got increase, but the smoothen electrical distribution could yield a smooth power output, as a result placebo become obvious. Felt the car have more sprint

Instead of power up, its actually felt more like power down. Reason being, stock felt strong force as RPM reaches 3krpm, by 4krpm felt turbo kicks in; however, now the horse power has been smoothen. Refer below:

Stock output
1k : 20hp
2k : 30hp
3k : 40hp
4k : 80hp
5k : 90hp
6k : 94hp
7k : 70hp

Power Well
1k : 20hp
2k : 40hp
3k : 60hp
4k : 80hp
5k : 90hp
6k : 94hp
7k : 70hp

At one point, I thought there's power loss, but as I release gas pedal at around 4krpm, the car gradually slow down by engine brake, I went WOT. The car were not hesitated, continue to sprint, screaming all the way to 7krpm to hit the high C.

Butt dyno conclusion, a proper grounding will lead to better power distribution. Be it old car or new car, the size of conductivity on our alloy engine is way below par. Should any of us in doubt, very easy just grab your jump start cable, hook the black cable on the (-) negative pole, the other end clamp it on engine hook. You will feel the difference instantaneously. This was an accidental discovery, but my butt likes it. I hope this minor sharing would benefit those budget modder + placebo effect worshiper

haiz old town ah...haiz....david,the secret weapon is rdy ah?lol...

Or we can each dabao our own food and picnic at the car park

spiral bullet? 

btw, my issue with vibrator steering...went to a young chap shop. he observer my tyre and said my tyre going to kong. he showed me my tyre wear was not even hence only at high speed it is vibrating. he told me do on-wheel or high speed balancing also will not help.    then i told him if swap rear tyre to front he said since i like going fast if rear vibrating n i did not notice suddenly corner i will go into longkang 
his advice was pakai sampai botak n change front 2 tyre... should i trust him?    i mean he have some points there. but...

actually just need a jack will do...no need all these advance stuff....need 4 jack.....i know the method of on wheel balancing,my fren teach me b4....but i duno how to to analyze the vibration..