Man, the club thread is so darn fast....

Just to share my experience with my FLX on last sunday's track day.

It was his virgin run in the track and it's been few years since the last time I've track and learning everything new about the car's behavior in the track is a lot of fun. Went in the track from 8 am onwards until 10:30am then rest the car in the pit and move out 11am to make way for the time attack session cars.

I did about 6 to 7 laps, the 1st few laps I took it easy at about 70% and the last few I tried 100% but traffic was heavy at that time and the track was packed with the likes of Type-R, Lotus Exige, R35s, Ferrari and Lambo gunning down here and there....and I can't fully use the track as I wanted to. I manage to clock 160 at the back straight before the final turn and about the same speed at the main straight. The car held up quite fine at turning just the lack of power coming out from a few sharp turn. Oil temp and water temp all was good even under such hard whacking. My car engine is quite stock and no heavy mod. I believe the car can do more and I need to practice more to get back the memories. Since I did not have a proper transponder for the car, I didn't keep track of the timing.

It was great experience once again to have the chance to track with something most people would regard as a daily point A to B car. I was sharing the same pit with the big boys and the white duckling just sat there alone resting from the heat after a few laps. People around was giving that "What is this doing here" look Hahahaha...quite priceless expression as duckling was the only Saga in the whole line up of cars which are much faster and powderful.

I believe there are other saga owner who track their cars just different timing so no chance to met up in track days.

I was running Parada Spec2...Wanted to swap in 595 RSR from another set of rims but that set was not balanced brought to shop but the shop closed early on SAT...sh*t. The Spec2 was performing not bad on track though...

Thank....it was a very enjoyable time. Although overtaken by those high performance car like standing still...

gogo.....tarck day in sepang is not cheap though 350 for track day and 450 for Time Attack.

Dato Sagor track sounds very far....I'm from N9 btw....anyone here from N9 ah?

Once the track is open, you can go out and lap as much as you want or until your brakes start to smoke (you get to see that a lot with some hardcore trackies you can even light your ciggies if you put it on the brakes), get tired, or a red flag come out (which means got accident on track) or the session is closed. Usually a session is about 2 hours and a lap around Sepang will be around sub 3 minute (those who are quite familiar with the track), those hardcore kaki will do a lap around 2min and 30sec below or around that time and above 3 minute range for fresh drivers.

It's ok...everyone has a start even those senior kaki used to be new too.

Since talking about extractor, 4-2-1 is better for street use 4-1 is for Mid to high rev usage but need to be reminded that not all will gain at high end with a 4-1 you need the valve to open higher during high revving. That's why you see VTec and Mivec they gain more at high end ith a 4-1 compare to those cars with valve lift system. For saga, it's better to just use a 4-2-1...I'm also running a SS 4-2-1 and find that my usagable rev range is wider now. Torque come in much earlier compare on stock. I have rev the engine just touching redline and the fuel cut kicks in. I'm still using my stock rear muffler as of now but the exhaust note has change after I change the extractor and the mid box. The note is still not loud and very quiet but has a bit more growl to it.

Just a info to share with al owners, if you change to a 4-2-1 the O2 sensor will be plug into 1 of the runners only. This is something I don't really like as the reading form the O2 will not be as accurate as reading from all the 4 runners. I've search around to change the O2 position myself to the down pipe after the 4 runners merge into a single one but got feedback that might caused the CEL to light up as longer the O2 wire, more resistance when the signal comes back to the ECU as the O2 sensor max volt is only 0.9V. Now the car is running a bit rich at higher RPM (it's a safety features from manufacturer to avoid pining and detonations) as I can clearly hear a popping sound in the car when I release the throttle and when I shift at high RPM. but it's safer to run rich than lean as you won't risk blowing the engine but running more lean give the car a bit more power because the engine will run hotter.

Information is meant to be shared. It's better have more well informed owners than less because some shops can detect a noob and charge extra for that.

For my exhaust setup, I didn't enlarge the piping at all, still with the stock piping, a lot of misconception is that the bigger the better, but not for exhaust, exhaust is about about flow, how fast you can let that exhaust out of the muffler is more important. My target of modding the car is to make it more fun to drive by making the engine more lively and more responsive. A more responsive engine is more fun to drive. I didn't add anything to the exhaust system, I just swap the extractor for a SS one, I remove the stock extractor together with the CAT as the CAT is mounted just after the primary runners on the stock system, I then replace the stock mid box with a aftermarket mid box (not bullet) and the rear muffler retain as stock.

On the piping side, our engine is not forced fed and it's a small CC engine and most of the guys here are on light tune only, so by enlarging the piping you are typically giving the exhaust gas more room to cool down before it exits the muffler, colder gas is denser and harder to push compare to a heated gas inside a small pipe. That's why Japanese tuners they make their exhaust system in a venturi step way. The extractor connected to the exhaust port is larger or same diameter of the exhaust port then down to the downpipe section it's smaller and then reduce a bit in diameter until the middle of the car all the way to the back. This helps the exhaust temp drop to be controlled and maintain it's flow rate.

Billy, it's better to invest in a good and proven extractor than a cap ayam one. They are some local made one which are priced quite good. Also when choosing an extractor make sure the inlet of the runners are smooth and does not have bumped up welding marks or have gaps between the mounting plate.

In conclusion, if you engine is not making more power don't enlarge the piping and some might say after install this the car feel more power..Actually you are just freeing up some of the lost power from the engine due to manufacturing tolerance. Therefore, if you take a bone stock saga for a dyno you will see the dyno result shows less than the advertised one.

On the O2 sensor, they are using normal cooper wires even from manufacturer, because the signal that transmit to the ECU is via voltage. I haven't measure myself how much is the voltage drop for each increasing length of a cooper wire but there's definitely a drop. Since the ECU read voltage from the O2 a slight drop might send the ECU a wrong reading as the voltage is only 0.9V to 0.1V.


Iska, my car very stock one always get bullied by Vios and City and MyVi....Hahahaha....now can't free myself for TT. I've miss so many of my home turf TTs also from the guy over at ZTH.....busy with my work and my almost fullmoon daughter now....but I will surely come to join you guys in the future and when I can since I have TTed with other clubs and friends in KL...

I posted a link to a video of my early morning track day and was not going all out yet at some turns. This is can roughly tell how is the exhaust sound on my car with such setup. Sorry for the wind noise as I kept a small opening on driver's side window.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10201229693689552

Thanks V12, makes me feel very old though...Hahahahaha.....

BIlly, HotBits, Turbo S, these brands are good local ones. trust worthy items as they are trial and tested. Sometimes the price seems expensive. Good things don't come cheap and cheap things don't come good. Here's a pic of mine 4-2-1. After it was installed, it turn gold after it gets heated up but now turn purple because got dirt and oil need to polish it back...Hahhaha


jsnkok, mostly removed because the CAT is attached just after the stock runner. Refer to pic below

Price for SS is around 500+ You can visit Super Circuit in Sunway...ermm there's nothing else to do when you change the extractor..I'm not very clear on what you trying to say...Hahahaha


You can choose to wrap the extractor personal preference..

PS I'm not promoting any brand, what brand to choose is up to owner's budget and own research....

My friend recently did a exhaust system for his Fiesta, the guys over at super circuit did the job and since it was a 1st and prototype they didn't ask my friend to pay. They just told my friend to test the prototype...

Super Circuit blog...
http://supercircuit.blogspot.com/search?up...4&by-date=false

Is the torque curve that is been changed or moved that's why you have lower RPM reading compare to before. In stock form the engine rev has to be at 3000RPM @80km/h now after changing the header, you have moved the torque curve broader and lower hence your engine can work less to achieve 80km/h therefore you RPM reads lower. The gear ratio is still the same. What has changed is the torque output or the engine.

Sorry.... guess I was not thinking straight when I post....sorry taikor..I just read back my post and I also found is my fault...

This post has been edited by TitanRev: May 27 2013, 01:25 PM

Just want to ask owners with Fog light, the fog light switch is separate from the signal stalk? or the fog light switch is built into the signal stalk?