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PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX CLUB V44, Satay, Satay everywhere
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Gekko
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May 23 2013, 12:13 PM
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Getting Started

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My ride is a Saga FL manual and I am considering to change the extractor. Reason is becos at low RPM, the car is underpower, This is evident especially climbing slopes, exiting junctions etc. I really have to step on the gas pedal in such situations. Any advise as I don't want to spend too much in modding a lot of things, Just need a little extra hp for the low RPMs. On highway cruising etc, I am very satisfied with the performance. Any impact on the FC with such mods?
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Gekko
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May 23 2013, 04:42 PM
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Getting Started

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QUOTE(Mahihi @ May 23 2013, 12:14 PM) QUOTE(TitanRev @ May 23 2013, 01:17 PM) It's ok...everyone has a start even those senior kaki used to be new too. Since talking about extractor, 4-2-1 is better for street use 4-1 is for Mid to high rev usage but need to be reminded that not all will gain at high end with a 4-1 you need the valve to open higher during high revving. That's why you see VTec and Mivec they gain more at high end ith a 4-1 compare to those cars with valve lift system. For saga, it's better to just use a 4-2-1...I'm also running a SS 4-2-1 and find that my usagable rev range is wider now. Torque come in much earlier compare on stock. I have rev the engine just touching redline and the fuel cut kicks in. I'm still using my stock rear muffler as of now but the exhaust note has change after I change the extractor and the mid box. The note is still not loud and very quiet but has a bit more growl to it. Just a info to share with al owners, if you change to a 4-2-1 the O2 sensor will be plug into 1 of the runners only. This is something I don't really like as the reading form the O2 will not be as accurate as reading from all the 4 runners. I've search around to change the O2 position myself to the down pipe after the 4 runners merge into a single one but got feedback that might caused the CEL to light up as longer the O2 wire, more resistance when the signal comes back to the ECU as the O2 sensor max volt is only 0.9V. Now the car is running a bit rich at higher RPM (it's a safety features from manufacturer to avoid pining and detonations) as I can clearly hear a popping sound in the car when I release the throttle and when I shift at high RPM. but it's safer to run rich than lean as you won't risk blowing the engine but running more lean give the car a bit more power because the engine will run hotter. Thanks guys for the input. Will now definitely consider this alternative. As I have limited budget, this would be good alternative as our cars lower revs is quite underpowered but not sure on those FLX models. As TitanRev shared, its still not loud and still quiet, this would be nice as I dun wan to wake up my neighbours becos most of the time I get home quite late after work. Any impact on the FC? I am getting contradicting advise, my SC says dun mod as FC is affected,another mechanic says just change the extractor only and FC is affected becos once mod, you tend to 'tekan' more on the paddle, just drive normally it will be ok. Thanks again guys...
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Gekko
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May 23 2013, 05:55 PM
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Getting Started

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QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ May 23 2013, 04:57 PM) when you change extractor, automatically your engine fuel consumption will be altered also, along with tons of other things such as exhaust gas velocity, pressure, etc etc. I can't comment on FLX with 4-1 as I am using 4-2-1 all these while. My town driving economy actually improved. However, when I am cruising at highway at 140kph, fuel vanish faster compared to stock extractor. Modification is all about trade off something to gain another. For my case, I trade off my high speed cruising economy for more city driving economy. if you want to mod and puts low rev power as your main priority, then plonk in a 4-2-1 and you're all good to go. Thanks V12Kompressor. Noted. 4-2-1 is the way to go. Mostly town driving so that would be my choice. Thanks again everyone for the input.
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Gekko
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May 24 2013, 10:35 PM
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Getting Started

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QUOTE(Gekko @ May 23 2013, 05:55 PM) Thanks V12Kompressor. Noted. 4-2-1 is the way to go. Mostly town driving so that would be my choice. Thanks again everyone for the input. Hi guys, just to update, today I took the plunge and got my exhaust system modded. Changed to 4-2-1 extractor (did not see brand but whole thing is chrome plated, quite heavy, maybe cap ayam  ), changed the centre bullet which is slightly smaller and slightly heavier than the stock. Muffler maintain at stock. After changing, just like TitanRev said, there is a difference in power delivery in the low revs and even on the mid to high revs I noticed at 80KM/h my rpm was only touching abt 2600 - 2700rpm. Previously b4 modding was at least 2800-3000rpm. The sound was good, can hear some engine growl around 3000rpm and above but overall its ok. Power wise can feel the difference. Now is to monitor the FC. Thanks again for all the input and advise. This post has been edited by Gekko: May 24 2013, 10:36 PM
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Gekko
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May 25 2013, 09:54 PM
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Getting Started

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QUOTE(TitanRev @ May 25 2013, 02:51 PM) Is the torque curve that is been changed or moved that's why you have lower RPM reading compare to before. In stock form the engine rev has to be at 3000RPM @80km/h now after changing the header, you have moved the torque curve broader and lower hence your engine can work less to achieve 80km/h therefore you RPM reads lower. The gear ratio is still the same. What has changed is the torque output or the engine. Yes, there is more torque compared before modding. Now exit junction can feel more power. The damage was about RM800 for everything, dunno thats reasonable or not. Maybe 'kena ketuk' but definitely more satisfied with the power output now. Now have to control my right foot a bit, if not my petrol bill is gonna shoot up...
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