Dear 4A lovers,

I was thinking on converting my 20V Silvertop to turbo. There are some stuff that i know but. Is it worth to rebuilt the engine from the 4AGZE's or to take a complete turbo kit? I heard from some peeps who owns a kononye 7AGTE hybrid engine kacukan 4AGE 20v + 4AGZE bottoms. Which would be less hastle?

Turbo Kit comes with:

I dont need the conrods as silvertop are using 4agze conrods compared to the newer version of its successor blacktop

While making a hybrid version, what i would need is:

4AGZE pistons i think its the small port version 8.9
AR50 turbo
4AGZE blocks
A mod on the 4age gasket
3sgte injectors
new fuel pumps
intercoolers
new headers

Is it worth it? is there anything i missed? has anyone done this?

how much price difference between using 4AGZE parts vs complete turbo kit btw? if difference not much and has the option of complete turbo kit, just take the turbo kit, no need headache.

if the turbo kit only provides basic parts and no engine internals to lower compression, u can opt for using both, using the turbo kit plus 4AGZE pistons so u can boost a bit higher.

This post has been edited by stormlcc: Mar 23 2013, 03:09 AM

Price difference between RM1.5k till RM2k. the turbo kit dosent come with the turbines intercoolers wastegates. just the bearings, gaskets, pistons, seals, rods which i dont need, other than that, i have to purchase it on my own. the turbokit is cheeper but lacks in parts while the hybrid match, im still concern on the valve / piston clearance. As for boosting. Im not keen on high boost. Something that can be used as daily and sometimes aggresive driving.

oh ya. the hybrid is definitly hafcut stuff.

then it's not really a turbo kit because to be a 'kit', those important parts like a turbo must be included in the package..........

You have already answered your own question, there's just one choice, the hybrid option because there's no point in getting the 'turbo kit'.

about higher boost i don't mean more than 1 bar, and that's perfectly acceptable for a daily drive. for valve and piston clearance, i'm not sure, aren't the 4agze the same as 4age in terms of cylinder and valve sizes? they are using the same engine right?

This post has been edited by stormlcc: Mar 23 2013, 03:42 AM

that was what i was thinking but being apart of its been used. ok. the AFM on the S/T has to be removed. Still means that i have to fork out cash to get a piggyback rite?

about higher boost i don't mean more than 1 bar, and that's perfectly acceptable for a daily drive. for valve and piston clearance, i'm not sure, aren't the 4agze the same as 4age in terms of cylinder and valve sizes? they are using the same engine right?

AFM is a bit tricky, u might need to use the 4agze AFM because your air fuel ratio is now totally different and needs more oxygen for the combustion. u WILL NEED the piggy back, it's non negotiable, or else how are u going to tune the air fuel? your engine will blow if u use stock ECU (if it works)

20v 4age and a 16v 4agze size are different in terms of the top part. pistons should fit even tho the gze's are only 16v. sizes of the valves im not quite sure YET. AFAIK, the 4agze and the S/T 20v share the same conrod. Regarding the AFM, thats my common fear. I ever did tried to remove the AFM when i got the engine and i had no idea about it. I thought its just some accessory thing. But i was stopped by a friend who was using the same engine and told me that the AFM must not be removed UNLESS i get the B/T wiring, ECU, and ITB's or getting the piggyback. But i did not research more about the AFM. The only thing that i know that its a MUST HAVE. seems like u know ur way thru on 4a-ge engines.

This post has been edited by HeLLonEarTH: Mar 23 2013, 03:52 AM

piggy back can't replace the AFM, it is only a device to trick the standard ECU about the AF ratio, it can't detect how much air is going into the engine, that's the job of the AFM. without AFM, the ECU will be confused because it doesn't know how much fuel to give the engine, that's what Air-fuel ratio is all about, the ECU compares the amount of air (detected by AFM) and then gives the engine the exact amount of petrol then engine needs to be burnt. without AFM, the engine will either fail to start or can't rev past a certain RPM (rev will be limited to maybe 2k rpm only).

to remove the AFM entirely, u will need to have a map sensor coupled with a standalone ECU which is super expensive.

i have a blacktop btw.

3K rpm max rev to be exact. I did try it. LOL. for my dumbness. So by using the piggyback, am i able to remove the AFM? or it should still be there? Or should i consider on converting the ITB's wirings and ecu to B/T?

like i said before, u can't remove the AFM if use only piggyback. to remove AFM u need a standalone ECU that usually comes with map sensor to replace the AFM.

i thought u want to turbocharge the engine, what's it gotta do with converting ITB wiring and ECU to BT?

bro your ST makan minyak or not ah ? my 4throttle drinks like no tmr...thinking of reverting it back to ori ..