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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL, FLX CLUB v41, GaGa The Crap Car

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coolkwc
post Mar 24 2013, 11:48 AM

Fall in love with audio again.
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QUOTE(dares @ Mar 24 2013, 11:34 AM)
konklusinya, if wanna diagnose rattle sound, need to install boombox ph34r.gif
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To be honest, with sub we can find the rattle source more easily...one of the hidden function. laugh.gif
coolkwc
post Mar 29 2013, 05:19 PM

Fall in love with audio again.
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QUOTE(lhwj @ Mar 29 2013, 04:44 PM)
The study of how engine vacuum and RPM relates to fuel consumption is always interesting. These are my observations.

From my understanding (and YAB thinks so too), on the IAFM (non +) engine, the fuel regulator sprays fuel based solely on engine vacuum. 0 inhg? Spray rich 9 9. High vacuum? Lean burn. So by reading the vacuum gauge you can estimate how much fuel is fed to the engine. Plus, your engine vacuum is dependent on the throttle opening, if you step hard and keep the throttle wide open, vacuum drops and the injectors dump loads of fuel into the engine.

Throw RPM into the equation and it gets a bit more complicated. You're right in saying that low RPM doesn't necessarily mean low FC. Ever ridden a multi-speed bike? That should give you a very good idea on what the engine is going through. For example, if you try and ride in high gear at low speeds, it's difficult and tiring even though you are pedaling slowly. If your brain had a vacuum gauge it'll be pointing at 0 inhg. But at the same time, if the gear is too low, you waste too much energy pedaling quickly but the bike moves too slowly. So you should pick a gear that allows you to pedal at the optimum cadence (your pedaling RPM) for the road condition, be it fast or slow, uphill, flat or downhill. Same thing with driving. You may not be able to select your gears manually on an automatic or CVT gearbox but understanding the shifting behaviour of your gearbox will help.

So in the end I can say your RPM doesn't matter too much, as long as you're not excessively high near the redline. Your vacuum does matter however, as it directly affects how much fuel is sprayed into the engine.

I have been driving with a vacuum gauge for about seven months now. Personally, I don't think driving while reading the gauge has actually improved my consumption, but having that extra bit of info is very useful and has taught me loads on how the engine responds to the throttle and load conditions (eg, acceleration, going uphill). I think it should be standard in every car but then 99% of drivers won't know how to read it whistling.gif

Going by the above it seems that driving with a high vacuum all the time is good. There were times when my eyes were almost glued on the gauge, adamant not to let the vacuum drop below 10 inhg. However if I drive like that I wouldn't be going anywhere, as I can't accelerate and keep up in traffic. I found it was better to actually accelerate a bit harder initially, never mind that the vacuum went down to 5 or even 0 inhg, but if I did I'd quickly reach an optimum speed and RPM ratio where I could now move fast and at the same time have an efficient vacuum reading. What I'm saying here may not make much sense until you get your own vacuum gauge icon_idea.gif
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This is what i observe from OBD2 scanner reading, vacuum is not always related to fuel inject rate. Campro is EFI, it inject fuel based on user input.

Real case example i cruising @ 110km/h 3600rpm in 5th gear on flat road, fuel inject rate is 100cc/min, vacumm 15in/hg. When the road is started to incline, i stay @ constant pedal, the car slow down until 90km/h and vacumm drop until 10in/hg, but fuel inject rate doesn't change. What i get is i use same amount of fuel to travel shorter distance, means the outcome also same, FC increase, but what i want to say is vacumm not directly related the fuel inject rate.

How about i down shift to 4th gear? With the pedal input same as 5th gear, what will happen is ur car will further slow down <90km/h, why? Becos engine will run >3600rpm for 90km/h, the engine drag will slow ur car down. Means lagi worst FC.

Same as u, driving with vacuum meter did not improve my FC, but by observing % throttle, definitely FC improve, at least for me.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Mar 29 2013, 05:23 PM
coolkwc
post Mar 29 2013, 05:51 PM

Fall in love with audio again.
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QUOTE(jasonloh7906 @ Mar 29 2013, 05:44 PM)
lol~~sudah very old time. hahaha.
if poor workmanship what will happen?
hmm, this is another good information. so if vacuum reading can't really help then no point also.
maybe something that can adjust the fuel injection rate to suits driving style might be a good thing to consider.
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I do believe that throttle controller can help on that, if u can't control ur own right foot.
coolkwc
post Mar 29 2013, 09:16 PM

Fall in love with audio again.
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lhwjThe main reason for difficult to achieve <6L @ 110km/h is becos our highway is not totally flat road, but majority are incline slope, varies from 2% to 5% slope. Either we increase throttle during uphill or we maintain throttle to let the car slow down also will increase fuel usage per distance, end up difficult to achieve that.
coolkwc
post Apr 2 2013, 03:24 PM

Fall in love with audio again.
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Haiz, yesterday did engine soundproof, i noticed there was oil stain at the edge of front engine top and engine block. Does it mean my top gasket is start leaking? 87k now...
coolkwc
post Apr 4 2013, 02:58 PM

Fall in love with audio again.
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Is time to share what have been done on my car during last weekend.

Last Saturday i went back to Ipoh to tend a grand parent grave. From JB to KL, i turn OFF my radio and listen carefully actually whats wrong with my car, why I spent 3.5k for soundproof yet i can't get what i want. Yes, if I compare to stock Saga, of course there is huge different, but if I compare to Grand Livina? Latio? i have no answer for that. Even without comparison, still i'm not satisfy with that.

Whether i'm hand itchy or i'm bored with my car, I finally decided to give my car another chance. I stopped @ Cheras to find for someone (erictioh's 'enermy') for some opinion on my car SP setup. We went for test run @ Cheras area. His opinion same as me, for city drive, my current setup is more than enough, but for some coarse road where u can clearly see the particle texture, the low frequency roar is very obvious, this is the only thing that i feel very tire during long drive journey. He define the roar is some sort of echo due to our hollow chassis. He also point out that my engine noise actually cover my road roar on city drive. I agree with him but i told him my priority is road roar now.

After i went back to his shop, he open up my floor carpet to look for my setup, he said that my floor lack insulation where my deadening and absorbtion actually doing quite nice. So his solution for me is foaming door sills and add 3M thinsulation on floor.

I actually quite doubt that time that door sill foaming really helps or not. I know that the door sill is freaking hollow (u can knock on it to feel it, and those sand hiiting noise, actually is not come from fender, but hollow door sill), but no way we can soundproof that area except foaming.

After some long discussion with him, i decided to deal with his package.

Foaming job start at 1:30pm and finished on 5:30pm, yes, 4 hours, becos they need to prepare the mixture of foam. The foam in liquid form is pour inside the door sill through the hole (u will see after remove the plastic door step)

Result:
I don't have any measurement equipment to measure noise level, what i can judge is based on my radio volume level. Before and after different is i can lower down my radio 2 step below, yet i hear it clearly. The midbass from the front midrange reaapear again. Paired with my sub i can hear the bass is blended to my front speaker now rather than fade bass coming from behind last time. Trust me, from KL to Ipoh, my tears nearly drop out as i never got such enjoyment in my car's since i bought. Anyway, road roar for certain badly coarse stretch still exist, but now the roar is not somewhat 'mid bass echo' surrounded me, instead the roar is coming from the floor, and can be easily cover by ICE. Anyway, I start to agree that now the engine noise is the main noise source for me already.

So Sunday i left my car at home and i back to JB on Monday.
On Monday, this time i listen carefully to the noise of my car, the road noise reduction is even better now after the foam cure. Handling wise i can feel the car suspension is more firm, but not stiff. For those thin yellow speed line, i never heard any sound at all (before that can hear 'cek cek cek' sound, which i can confirm enter cabin through door sill). 2 hours from ipoh to KL, i can conclude that engine noise is my next thing to solve.

Guess what, i'm like someone addicted to drug, i can't resist my hand to steer my car to Cheras again. Yes, this time i seek for engine noise reduction.

This time we never test drive, i just drive in the shop and told him solve my engine noise problem. Solution for that is Stealth deadening + StP hood solution on bonnet lid, upper firewall (at engine bay) with 1 layer Stealth deadening + StP hood solution, and lower firewall (inside cabin) StP AK10. Whole process took around 3.5 hours.

Result:
He also can't wait to jump into my car for test run. Fire up engine, i though i'm in Camry or those Japs in idle. Campro with such engine noise level is totally 'unacceptable'. We went out for city drive, rev under 3k rpm is awesome, especially 2k-3k, the noise reduction is >50% (previously door, fender and floor SP already 50% reduction, so u imagine now). 3k onwards is less improvement compare 2k-3k range, but the drone sound is still acceptable and can be cover by ICE easily. Road roar wise, further reduce due to lower firewall soundproof. So for engine noise solution, FLX CVT is quite suitable due to low RPM nature.

Anyway, after few days drive, i think further door soundproof and A,B,C pillar + undercarriage foaming will be my next step. I'm addicted now.

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