please check whether urs is wind noise or cvt whining. If u release throttle n immediate the noise become lesser, its cvt whining. But if the noise slowly disappear, then its the wind noise then.

Some shop said steering rack, but actually what they recommend is steering bush, not rack. Oem steering bush is softer n give more free play(it can be adjusted actually, to get normal free play, to less n too much isnt good), not only bcoz its cheaper, but for safety reason. A good high grade steering bush is stiffer, less free play(less adjustment can be madez),more accurate, but with slight movement, the car easier to sway away. Dangerous at high speed when u may loose concentration when feeling sleepy. Good in tackling sweeping corner n winding road.

Changing the bush will void the warranty of course for those related to the parts.

About steer to the left, first what u can do is try checking the tyre pressure whether its the tyre pressure is uneven for left n right. Then, if same, check the tyre whether the tyre has problem. U can just rotate it to confirm. Secondly, go to any reputable alignment shop, they will adjust the toe, right n left, toe zero, total toe zero. No need chamber adjustment which they shudnt do at all.

And if ur car is under 1k km, u can go to any prtn or eon svc cntre that provide alignment service, do the alignment for free.

u shud complain to we.care coz if i not mistaken, cvt supply by punch only need to change the oil n filter for every 60k km. N please check also the type of fluid they using, hopefully the correct one.
i dunno whether thay had change the policy coz as far as i remember, its 60k as stated by punch.

10w 30 is almost all major co recommended for modern engine. U still can use 5w 30@ even 0w 30 coz both are sae 30 rating. The 1st is normally refer to winter rating@ at common known as how thick@thin the oil during cold start. The upper number on the other hand how thick@thin the oil can be when it heated up to normal operating temperature or even under extreme condition. Unless u r kaki pecut, sae 30 rating is suffice enough, unless u always red line kind of guy, then sae 40, 50 or even 60 is better. For normal engine n kaki pecut, sae 40 is enough. Unles high power engine like vw gti, evo,imprezza, ferrari n etc need beyond that, that is if its driven hard every day. If using higher sae, the bad things is that it is thicker, which means heavier. For cfe@iafm+, isnt recommended coz it will effect fc n performance.

But the first number@winter rating shud be atleast 10w. If using lower than that, its ok, but higher than that, isnt recommended coz thicker oil during cold start will cause hard to start, engine need to work hard, n for vvt equip engine, the oil takes time to bath the vvt component, which can lead to unwanted sound coming from vvt during cold start. The lower number cons is that its expansive than 10w, n for older engine that already eat the engine oil, u need regular top up.

So, its up to you, but since u can use cheaper 10w 30, why need to spend more? But if u need to use fully syn oil, make sure its around 10w 30, 5w 30@even 0w30 which is really expensive. For petronas, that is syntium 5000. U can get 5w30 from petronas in form of syntium 3000, n its also has 5w40 for the same range. 0w 40 also available for syntuum 5000.

For me, personally, i used 5w30 fs oil for one of my car, n 10w30 semi for another one.

u mean secondary blower? Yup, they have, inside c pillar,on the left side iinm. Primary, under ur glovebox.

i think u r cnfius with exora bold premium with exora prime premium. both are diff model.

exora bold premium is below exora prime premier, n prime also equip with 3 lcd screen(cetre dash n 2 headrests,n blue lit meter inm.

for me,why not try the exora bold cfe standard,cheaper than exora bold premium and exora prime of course. and other things u can add up later according to your need n budget.

yup,it a bit hassle to add up on ur own. but ice normally ad on @ plug n play thing unless changing the speaker n etc. the head unit just find the suitable one,double din if not mistaken. y i ask u 2 look up on standard cfe. rear sensor also almost plug n play unless camera equip one. sport rim,cheapest to used 2nd hand oem exora bold 16 inch,i think many tyre shops have it.

however its ur choice. for me,the standard is a better bargain,by usimg plug n play headunit,nothing will be void,just ur orginal hu,n can sell it.

yup,it a bit hassle to add up on ur own. but ice normally ad on @ plug n play thing unless changing the speaker n etc. the head unit just find the suitable one,double din if not mistaken. y i ask u 2 look up on standard cfe. rear sensor also almost plug n play unless camera equip one. sport rim,cheapest to used 2nd hand oem exora bold 16 inch,i think many tyre shops have it.

however its ur choice. for me,the standard is a better bargain,by usimg plug n play headunit,nothing will be void,just ur orginal hu,n can sell it.

iinm,normal lifetime 4 a car is between 8 to 10 years,approx 250k km. according to honda is 8 years. but 4 prtn is 10 years.

how long u used the car isnt the lifetime. manufacturers agree on general lifetime or life cycle is around 8 to 10 years.

thats why many come out new replacement model around that time. some earlier,around 7 years. some even 5 years. some even 20 years :-).

but it doesnt mean a car isnt usable after 8 or 10 years.

em,they shud readjust the headlight after replacing it. next time,remind them to realign it after replace the bulb. it is more accurate using the tools at sc coz the driver's side beam shud be lower than the left side on passanger to reduce glare. there are rules on light projection,cant remember.

haiya,those foreman,always like that,lazy to do a small job.

just got info,driver's side, 45meter,pass side 100meters. so that,u will get long range visibility of 100meters, and wide sweep visibility at near distance range of 45 meters.

hi all, just sharing a bit,just realise last year, proton bandung jawa had uploaded a few of crashtest done for exora,n which some of them not even being tested by any ancap. its only a part of crashtests being done showed in the video,n that is how prtn done their testing. its actually internal video,but since uploaded by the dealer,its ok i guest. just hope u guys can learn a bit on part of making cars,not as simple one might think. sorry for offtopic,the video is in youtube.

if u r interested on what other crashtest being done to exora beside what ancap tested,pay a visit.

ps, exora initially pass the side impact test without side airbags. only last year they send it to idiada back to test on fitting the side airbags. n off course,it is better,but not that big margin.

it doesnt have strut bar,but it does have anti roll bar,front n rear. i wont recommend it for certain reason. but its up to you.

it has. commonly known as stabilizer bar,which part of the design of front mcpherson strut. and for the rear torsion beam axle setup, the axle itself is the stablizer bar or anti-roll bar or anti sway bar.

dont be confuse between strut bar with anti roll bar. even saga has it.

This post has been edited by mat79: Sep 22 2013, 11:54 PM

factory tint is eco tint. u can call ecotint to know the grade of tint eb used. its not super good,but its a good one,not cap ayam or itik.

since evp already equip in cfe,of course all product used cfe will get it,same as vt3 .

its not that the earlier eb a test run. remember,when prtn keep idling,people said they lazy,dont do anywork, when they doing improvement,people said earlier batch a trial run. so what to do proton,hard to satisfy everyone.

later gsc will using zf eps,nfe, start stop idle n etc,people will start angry again :-).

yup,the current prtn n upcoming prtn will be the same as export version atleast the premium,but the sv version(the low line) will be unique to malaysian due to low price demand. but it wont be as terlalu kosong as b4,still the same homogolation across the line,but of course,the low line wont get maximum airbags,minimum 2.

but they r trying to put others passive safety across the board,at the same time cntroling the price to make it affordable.

no 1,r u using d,or L mode?if d mode,at d mode,when u reach a constant speed,110kmh shud be around 2300 rpm.
but if u r talking about pressing the pedal,it can be as high 5k rpm at 90kmh cuz its cvt,rpm according to how hard u slam the pedal,but of coz,speed will cntinue to rise,rpm,stagnant.

if not,then u shud go for checking.

no 2, shud be the same as no 1,there wont be rev match as fix gear since it cvt,if full throttle for a long period,still 120kmh,then send it to sc.

no 3, its due to clutch action,not the same as normal at or torque converter cvt. more or less the same as manual trans,amt n dual clutch trans.

no 4, gearlock.

maybe its typo. cfe cvt with 6 speed sat.

cps, 4 at n 5 mt.

the fc i suspected the air filter clogged up,n for cfe,iinm, 40k service is the time 4 u change the filter,oppose to non tcharge charge campro at 20k km. n ask them to retune/reset ecu ur next service. iinm,the was ecu update last year. if not updated,maybe its time to update/reflash.

the rattle,if u put pressure on the abags cover then the sound gone,then maybe ur next service,ask them to refit or change it if it is defect for free.

rattle inside dashboard is quite hard to guess. maybe some wiring loose from its fitting, coins or things accidently drop inside the dash,or maybe the dash triangular cover near a pillar loosen,or the odb port under ur steering column not refit properly during ur previous service n etc. better u check the source 1st,then tell them,if can lah.

same as saga pwrwindow rattling,when they doing trouble shooting to check,finally its the fender fitting,not pwrwindow mechanism.

nyek nyek maybe from seat or suspension or fender. if suspension,maybe it a bit misalign. ask them to refit. sometimes greasing the top mount of the suspension also can solve the prob.

by the way,its just my opinion. not a total solution. sory for not being too much help here.

if i not mistaken,u can order a unit of rim from prtn branch sc or proton parts.

about abs sensor,albeit bosch supplying the sensor previosly,make a habit,when start ur car,turn it on 1st,let all the light of abs,airbags n battery turn off 1st,then u start to crank.let it finish it diagnostic 1st.