Hemm...ada tanda karat kat pintu passenger sebelah bawah .... Masuk ke warranti kalau karat2 ni....lum sampai 2 thn ni...

forgot to add, the current FC is very bad, but I think it's mostly due to i just travel short distance often, and yet do the 1st service

bro, mind to share some photos here

How much is your FC ?

Mates..wana ask your advice. ..the gps navigation comes by standard with exora premium right? I forgot to ask my sa bout this..since my deal with his dat I wont be getting any free gift but discount is rm4500..

Yup, it come together as a package.

bro... buat service kat mana... cos i also complaining engine jerking from my 15k service... until now still not solved... now almost 30k.... will again complaint on the same issues...

go to glenmarie shah alam.. same row with porsche showroom

Thanks bro..waiting for my car now how will get it by this week

Hello frens,

Seeking info on Exora Bold brake pad, i think mine already nipis coz can see the disc kena makan dy, a bit deep line in the middle disc.

Last CNY, already noticed got sound from the pad and disc, then pandai2 pegi beli exora brake pad and bring to kedai tyre to change it. Surprisingly, it doesn't fit coz exora bold caliper seems bigger than normal/cps exora.

At that time, no aftermarket yet for exora bold brake pad, Proton Baiduri Auto said oni got original RM350 sepasang... GULP!!

So, now critical dy.. really need to tukar.

I hope someone can share their experience replacing the brake pad, where to buy good 3rd party brand (coz i think proton ori oso sucks and mahal).

I've search around lowyat forum but really need big effort to read it all, so many post.

Appreciate your feedback mates

p/s: my disc sure kena skim one.. $$$$

whats your current mileage? If too low maybe can complain to proton.

Worth getting it
However minor probs might occured which means u needs to leave ur car at the SC thus u cant carry ur stoxk

Already 45k km bro , usia 1.5 years old

Any idea brake pad brand & price, or any trusted seller here in lowyat.net?

hi

got this from fb

" try Bendix Stealth..around RM 110-130 @ sparepart shop.good grip.."

you can view the full conversation here

https://www.facebook.com/protonexora/posts/10152824401050650

http://www.mudah.my/BENDIX+METAL+KING+TITA...2310.htm?last=1

Try this one bro. Get your original pad and see whether it the same or not...

dunno if got fot exora cfe brakes.. they only sell for cps version.. cfe brakes an cps brakes are totally different..

try here... Bendix Metal King - Airline... Ask him got EB CFE brake pad or not...

quite trusted seller... already deals few time either through post or COD...

This post has been edited by 2die4: Jul 4 2013, 05:16 PM

Is our brake same with preve? Can someone verify?

what hapen bro? you kaki cocokke? my one olso 1.5 yer old. stil ok ma.

just want to share this... I got pretty much info from it.. so since sharing is caring.. :

taken from: http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/pro...bold-turbo.html

i would like to invite all Exora Bold CFE Turbo owners to share or discuss their car problems here.....

my Exora CFE so far so good... been driving it daily to work. Good fuel economy with the CVT g/box, even better than my Waja, no problem overtaking other cars... sometimes overtake 2000cc cars... LOL... On weekends, my wife oso fight who gets to drive it... value for money and the build quality has improved a lot...



I also found some useful technical info from another forum....Pls read:


I have several question regarding CVT for exora bold(CVT3) and saga flx (CVT2):

1) I notice that exora bold still roll back on even slight /gradual slope(not-too-steep slope). Normal auto gear vehicle only will roll back when the slope is too steep, if it is not steep enough, it's will lock at there. Is there anyway to make CVT lock it when reach slight/gradual slope? It is kinda dangerous esp for new driver.
You are correct. This is a know "issue", but is a design feature actually. Two things contribute to this:
First thing is what we call idle neutral, unlike all regular older AT's that have a constantly dragging torque converter or clutch, we open our clutch (a wet clutch, more pressure = more drag, even more pressure closes it) almost completely when you are pressing the brake and standing still. this way fuel is saved. If you release the brake a little time is needed to apply pressure to our clutch again. that is when you roll back a little, rollback only occurs on hills steeper than 10%.
secondly the engine cannot deliver a lot of power idling, when aircon is on, heavy car, on a hill, we can start closing the clutch in order not to roll back, but that will cause the engine to stall. When you apply trottle you will notice first the clutch opens a little bit so engine revs up, than we start closing the clutch, during revving up, you can encounter rollback.

What to do? use handbrake in stead of brake, this way we not shift to neutral (we only read regular brake signal not handbrake), use enough trottle, this way the engine produces engough power to close the clutch in one move.

2) A lot bashes arguing CVT from proton will end up like honda city CVT, after few year, this cvt gb will fail and it's will cost a bomb for us to replace the CVT GB. Can you describe a bit on punch CVT and it's reliability issue?

We are looking into this, we do know income in malaysia is not like europe meaning people will choose repaired or reconditioned gearboxes above new ones. Possibility is that Punch will open a local brand to recondition gearboxes and sell at prices comparable to normal AT ones. As you know our gearboxes are tested till 250000km.

3) A lot people(those basher) condemning on rubberband effect for proton CVT compare to those conti CVT(multitronic and etc). Rubberband effect quite obvious for punch CVT.
Rubberband effect is from CVT's that existed 30 years ago, we use a steel belt so not applicable.

4) Overheat issue on CVT2. There is rumours saying that Saga FLX always break down due to CVT2 overheat. Is there any solution already?
We use a wet clutch, when you would move uphill at very low speeds it would slip almost constantly. We cool this clutch with CVT oil, this is pumped trough the clutch by our CVT pump, this pump is directly connected to the engine. So yes, when not driving as you should with a CVT (and you cannot know this as this is new) you can overheat it. Please compare to manual, if you would keep it on a hill only using the clutch you would burn it.

What to do? avoid long slipping clutches by applying enough throttle when moving uphill, the engine will produce enough power for us to close fast without long slipping period. Shift to N when you can, this will have a cooling effect on the CVT, if possible in N apply little throttle till lets say 1500rpm, this will rev up the pump and increase cooling.
these tips are only for extreme conditions! all other condition drive as you want!
Our CVT's are tested under extreme temperatures! Worst case scenario clutch will open, resulting in no drive as we measure temperature and in order not to break the CVT we will open clutch. You will have to wait a few moments, key on and off and there you go again, this is no breakdown!

5) [Tourist bro question] I sat in a Bold and notice when moving away from stationary (not very aggressive driving), there are lots of dull humming or booming noise coming from the dashboard or gear lever area. It goes away when car is up to speed. But I distantly remember sitting in another Bold before and don't recall hearing these noise in the other Bold. Are all Bold the same or some are simply quieter than the others?
It's different per Bold, it is dashboard assembly I am afraid. Primes seem to be even more sensitive than bold. Actually engine is loaded at that time and as RPM is low it will vibrate, as a result the dashboard will vibrate and that is what you hear. This should be an easy fix for a dealer in my opinion.


Questions related to Exora CFE:

1) You have mentioned that the clutch is almost completely open while standing still with D engaged, is this the prime reason of slight lagging when slowly pressing the gas to move?

yes, if you release the brake and immediately press the gas, this is the case. It is always better not to press the gas immediately unless you have to (uphill), you will notive less delay. That it isn't superagressive at launch (if you would mean this by lag) is calibration, it is to preserve both engine and CVT. it is called torque reduction, the engines power delivery is minimized, although full trottle.

2) Could you give some advices/tips in using CVT when going uphill (e.g. Genting Highland)? Also does it have engine-breaking effect when coming down?
yes it has an automatic engine braking, but only when trottle completly released. Even more engine braking can be applied by putting transmission in L mode. Also for uphill L mode comes in handy, lower ratio, more pulling power!Thanks.

Is there anyway to avoid CVT failure like honda city/jazz? Any special thing need to take care in order to longer the lifespan of punch CVT?
need your expertise how to take care on punch CVT GB.
Nothing really special, just drive and enjoy. If would have to say one thing it is to let it build up it's clutch pressure after releasing brake or putting in D before going on throttle, that will be better for clutch.

Need more specific info on the following:


1) Do we know when the cluth is fully open? is there an indication or behaviour that we can observe? i do not know what you mean, only open in N, almost open but small drag in D on brake, more drag (causing creep speed) in D off brake

2) as you said "when you would move uphill at very low speeds it would slip almost constantly", how slow is the slow (car speed and engine rev)? speeds under 10kph

3) The tips in the "what to do" is for extreme conditions. could you elaborate more on the conditions? Conditions where with manual car you would get in trouble, there is no real circumstances i can give you

4) When u said the CVT is tested under extreme temperature, how extreme is it? We do summer and wintertests, wintertests go up to -40degree, summer tests are extreme high temps and mountains.

5) If the car is in extreme condition, i believe the CVT oil might be degraded earlier than expected. Is there a way for us to check if the CVT oil is still at its functional condition to lub and cool the CVT? You cannot check but there is no need to. 60000km is fine as in service manual. (or 2 years)

I am currently driving a Honda City with CVT and it is working fine after 150k+ km. it has the idle neutral behaviour as you mentioned above. As we know, City CVT is not supplied by Punch. Thus, i want to make sure i drive like what Punch recommends in order to get the best out the CVT, yet with minimal wear and tear.

ok..i think i am getting clearer picture....
1) cluth fully open in N, minor drag when in D and accelerating, more drag when in D and brake applied (engine brake).
2) i think it is unlikely that we go uphill with the speed of <10kph

The CVT overheat issue, if i understand correctly from your replies, mainly touching on the cluth. In worst case, the cluth will open to avoid further damage. So, the CVT(belt, "gear") remains safe. Is that right?
Temperature build up in clutch is the problem, that is why it opens. Gears, belt, are not sensitive to these temperatures.

So, the cluth is a wear and tear stuff then? how frequent it needs to be replaced? It is designed to equal normal lifetime of a car.