Good morning guys,
i quite amazed by the speed of this tread..my 1st question of my car already long gone..lol..
as maybe some of u can remember, i just got my new car that is standard auto flx,
the best suggestion to upgrade my car is from bro reapers that is strut bar, lcp, steel braided brake hose and better tyre..
so need some info about which brand of petrol the best for saga and need some help of choosing car tint..

p/s: my father bought me the car for me, he payed dp, left the car for me..im there just sign the paper and drive away..lol, im sux, never have time to ask much about the car with the car seller..

wow thats very good bro... how old you car? 

time to plan to change mirror...     

it's OK luke, non FLXers or BLMers can feel free to comment. Like the BLMer below

Review time.

Throttle response test method: at idle, step on throttle and see how fast the tacho reacts. My assessment? No improvement whatsoever. Which is actually fine because it doesn't mess with my heel and toe timing which I've practised over the past few months.

But yes, the car feels different. Not dramatically, but in a subtle way. In low gears it's smoother than before. No more jerk jerk jerk nonsense in slow traffic. At first I thought the air cond compressor jerk was eliminated, but after paying careful attention it's still there, but slightly reduced. The car is more enjoyable to drive in traffic. Previously, shifting from first to second requires perfect timing, otherwise there will be a jerk. But now I noticed it's much easier to shift without the jerk, I don't have to concentrate so hard any more.

There could be a reason that my throttle response hasn't improved. I remember the very first time YAB drove my car, he said my throttle response was one of the best of all the Gagas he's tried. So maybe mine can't be improved any further. But I've been reading that for best results the grounding cable should be paired with a voltage stabiliser. That's what YAB and I hope to test next week.

I filled my tank exactly a week ago and got 7.6L/100km, between then and now I've done about 230 km and I estimate my next fill will be similar, so don't hope for miracles there. I've been driving with a very light foot and high vacuum to see how much I can squeeze out of one tank in jam crazy Penang (remember, 70 km/h on the left lane) and so I haven't had the chance to test high end power delivery yet. Maybe after next week.

I noticed that the hole of the lug for the negative terminal is not much smaller than the nut that holds it, so I found a small washer to insert between the nut and the lug so that the nut doesn't shear through the soft copper lug. I would suggest the rest of you do the same too. I also sandpapered the contacts to make them cleaner.

For RM 20 and a bit more for shipping, this ground cable is a worthy purchase.

You sure anot, RealMan™? better than Super-ECT 4AT?

After repeatedly making general sweeping statements condemning all CVTs, why the exception now?

was promoted with a grounding cable during pedal lock installation today.
it costs rm130 for a piece of cable!!

could i interject with a quick question

I'm driving a 1.6se and at 25litres i can travel about 240kms

Is that normal?

- saja + tak berani. Lol. Btw + also dunno sambung where.

why u wan? lolz

btw, juz kao time, my alternator ular oren and double VS now....

Voltage -> car warming up 14.5-14.6, after warming up 14.3-14.4...

no time to further test as very de late and hungry...lolz

while tightening the battery nut accidently drop the nut and look at the engine bay cant find, later tolak car finally found it... it drop on the grass... :swt:

already ac on headlamp on...

radiator fan running, ac kick voltage 14.0-14.2..

but still the light will kelip whn ac kick in.... still cant solve tht...

I have the AC kick in voltage drop sometimes, and it's not because of voltage stabilizer nor grounding issues. It's the godem throttlebody shut too tight, alas RPM dipped below 700, whilst alternator unable to charge at 14.5V became 12.0 or less. At this point, voltage stabilizer only able to offset about 1/2 of alternator performance, which still trying to maintain voltage at about 13.5V. Despite the difference is only from 14.5 dropped to 13.5, but as a human with outstanding suspicious + placebo butt, headlight dim is utterly noticeable(despite compare with car not start with headlights on at 12v - it's actually much dimmer than 13.5V during aircon kicks in with engine running). I can almost confirm you, even change to whatever ranjiao alternator, as long RPM dipped below its optimal charging cycle, your headlights will still dim. Unless you have a backup battery running at the charging capacity 14.5V. That however will cause you another problem. If your backup battery is running at 14.5V, it will be quickly discharged to an radiative equilibrium 12V when the alternator is not charging. Follow up by having a 14.5V backup batter, your alternator should also be upgraded to 200amp in order to charge 2 batteries at the same time. Correct me if I'm wrong. It'll be great if coolkwc can come in and shed some lights

can show your car installation picture? where is the rocker?

dangerous putting GC in gaga. when overtake, just slight throttle only, RPM shoot up to 4K, feel smooth. hehe.
the best thing i like about GC in gaga is that throttle response is better for my FL. i think before this the most i felt about throttle lag in my FL is when going uphill stop go. with GC, i can be in control of the pedal. also my gaga feels like a race car. with GC also peper will not feel their gaga underpowered.

sg999

As I said earlier, I did not particularly mention why aircon kicks in that reduces current supply. Some may not notice the power drop when a/c kick, powah windoe kick, radiator fan kick, even turn steering also kick. Trust me, all these related to kinetic motors electrical appliance will jeopardize your electric current supply. The reason u have radiator fan kicks is solely bcoz when AC turn on, radiator fan will be simultaneously kick in. And however if radiator already heated up, fan was running then AC compressor kick is negligible bcoz the power has been drawn earlier by the fan already.

Therefore, if u install a 1 farad capacitor to the AC compressor, another 1 farad capacitor on the powersteering pump, another 1 farad to the cabin fuse box, another 1 farad on the battery, you have no light dim in the future. So u prolly ask me, aint that stupid? By having those few farads on the car, not only increase weight & burden the alternator, it can drain the battery when the car is not in use!

My point is, I've measure my charge reading on battery terminal, its dangerously stands at 14.8V. However, measurement in cabin is 14.0V only. Meaning to say, the capacitor(VS) effect is only limited to anything directly connected to the battery terminal(not BRANCH) and headlights is the branch of rear lamp The cheaper way to eleminate headlight dim would be adding a relay wiring to draw direct current from battery to your headlights Not enough charge also nevermind. Your headlights will not dim geh, only drain your battery jek

p2 car throttle response are far more worst compare to gaga... btw its my own opinion, the rest i not sure how they like it..
find a day we TT there lo..

p2 car throttle response are far more worst compare to gaga... btw its my own opinion, the rest i not sure how they like it..
find a day we TT there lo..