

Cycling V5 aka 8888 CNY HUAT ah!, General talks on Racing/road bikes
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Mar 30 2013, 09:11 PM
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#141
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Help. I noticed some gaps between between the crank arm and bottom bracket, especially on the left crank arm. Is it normal? I already noticed the gap at the headset head cover but the mechanics told me it's is normal like that as it is fully sealed on the inside. But I just noticed the gaps on the left crank arm today. If bring to dubai confirm masuk pasir! Or is it normal like that? The gaps?
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Apr 1 2013, 11:08 AM
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#142
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(miaopurr @ Mar 30 2013, 09:20 PM) as long as no freeplay, no problem. not sure how the pressfit bb is normally set up. but for normal iso bb, it's normal to have a gap. if no gap at all that means the bearing preload is set too tight and will kill the bearings Maybe it's normal then so I consider it's ok QUOTE(sunghajung11 @ Mar 30 2013, 10:14 PM) Mr jgx I'm using merida ride lite which is alloy and I wan carbon for more comfort ride. Haha not at the moment . mana tau u terbalik wanna downgrade... so at will happen to ur scultura? willing to let go? hehe QUOTE(butthead @ Mar 31 2013, 12:11 AM) the headset top cover usually has some grooves and maybe even a rubber liner to stop dirt and moisture getting into the bearings... even if there is not, no big deal as the bearings themselves are usually sealed units nowadays.. Butthead, is it normal for a fork if we can slide it up and down once the bard and stem is removed from the steerer? Sliding up means showing the top headset and sliding down showing the bottom. It didn't happened before with my merida so I'm curious. I don't need a special tool right? Just slide both into place, put the stem and bars on and I'm good to go right? What else need to check? ![]() there is good and bad to this, good is it does stop the stuff from getting in...bad is that if something does get through via say strong jets of water... it is going to be hard to get out and in particular... moisture is not good for bearings... but in actual fact, the top cover does not rotate on the top bearings itself but it actually sits on a compression ring which in turn sits on the top bearing itself... so, the top cover turns the bearings via the compression ring rather than through direct bearing contact... usually, the gap is minimal but i guess they can't make it the same sort of gap tolerances for so many different frames... jus for ref http://www.danscomp.com/install/Integrated...set_Install.pdf same goes for the bb30 adapters...most adapters have 1 or maybe even more indentations... so, seeing a gap is not a big issue the smaller indentations you don't see from the bike externally will still keep your BB closed from contaminants.. QUOTE(butthead @ Mar 31 2013, 09:46 PM) Since no one interested to join me I do some bed repeats instead of hill repeats |
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Apr 1 2013, 11:27 AM
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#143
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 1 2013, 11:14 AM) there should be a compression ring above the top bearing. the compression ring can hold the steerer and all the bearings in place so there should be no freeplay. anyway, when u tighten the top cap screw, it will push the entire headset down. Pardon my bike technical know how..emm what is the compression thing? Hehe.did u remove the stem? Yes i removed the stem and bars so i can put it in my bike case. Just finish putting everything in place, it just that this steerer and fork sliding only happened today and ive no experience with headsets thingy. Now everything looks and feels normal but am just afraid something might not be at the right place and i moght damaged anything if i ride later. Nothing to be worried right? This post has been edited by mrjgx: Apr 1 2013, 11:29 AM |
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Apr 1 2013, 12:38 PM
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#144
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 1 2013, 11:36 AM) this is why a top cap is needed Can you clarify a bit where to put the rubber band? Why the design weird ah? No sealing for the fork join between the headtube and the fork (bottom one)? My merida has it.the compression ring that miao mention is quite easy to come loose...you just loose everything up and bump the steerer from the top a bit and it will come loose... just make sure the fork is slide all the way up and then wrap a couple rubber bands around the steerer where the headset top cap is to prevent it from loosening again.. QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 1 2013, 11:43 AM) Good tips but it gonna take a very long time to pack! I can pack my bike in 10 mins |
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Apr 1 2013, 01:16 PM
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#145
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
haha later i go back i post some pics about it. now in the office. i should increase my bike technical know-how..all the basic things I know la but when it going too technical im scared i'll do more damage than fixing
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Apr 1 2013, 02:07 PM
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#146
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
What actually happened is that my fork is sliding down, leaving my top headset sliding up the steerer tube. I just slide everything into place.
Question is, is it as simple as that? Then what is the headset tool is all about? |
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Apr 1 2013, 02:32 PM
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#147
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 1 2013, 02:26 PM) that is just to secure the top cap from coming loose...that actually can be solved by installing the stem cap back onto the steerer as that will not allow the HS top cover to come off the steerer... Fully understood now! Haha. Thx a lot. Hopes no sand coming through. My last experience after fully service my bikes (totally clean and soundless), i rode twice and the third ride there were creaking sounds already. Wind here is very dusty as for the rubber band.. it is just to prevent the fork from sliding down and dropping out of the frame.... that is how bike shops display bare frames... headset tools are just to press the cups and bearings into the frame... |
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Apr 1 2013, 11:59 PM
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#148
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59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Took my Allez for a spin around the neighborhood..first ride impression, it is good, like really really good. I'm not making it up but I rode my carbon Merida for 1 year and a half and I know this aluminum Allez surpass it anytime. Kinda like more responsive and perhaps it's the SRAM fever I'm having. The brick pavement didn't make the bike rattle at all
Shifting the front gears from the small to bigger chainring is almost instantaneous and so smooth I have to check with my eyes whether it really has went up to the bigger. Ring Only that I'm not really sure on the left shifter when moving back from the big to the smaller chainring, seems like moving the gear up and down for the left shifter is at the same tap position. I can hear double tap sound but I have to push to the 2nd furthest tap for both shifting up and down Lastly I can'tadjust the brake position like I did with the 105 when the brake pad is too close to the brake track. I have to adjust the tire angle to allow clearance between the padding. Niggling issues but I can survive it. Browsed thought net for info and found these. Damn confusing..got trim mode?? QUOTE First is it rival or force Shifters? Rival or force front Der.? With sram there should be a click from the shifter every time you change a gear. Are you getting those clicks during shifting? Trim is a halfway step for your front der. that lets you cross chain a little while in the big ring. The way it works is: When in the big ring all the way out: 1 click gets you to trim 2 clicks puts you in the little ring When in the trim step. (still big ring but der is a little more inboard) 1 click gets you the small ring 2 clicks puts you all the way out on the big ring What I think may be happening is you are in the trim step and pushing in 2 clicks and expecting the little ring and the Der. is going all the way back out. with the bike in a stand try shifting lightly till you get 1 click and watch the front der. then try 1 click again and watch the chain drop. also try pushing the shifter in 2 clicks from the trim step and from all the way out. It can be a little confusing if this is your first sram setup. This post has been edited by mrjgx: Apr 2 2013, 01:01 AM |
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Apr 2 2013, 10:45 AM
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#149
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Not feeling anything, unless I bought complete Red with sworks sl4 then I'll be fukced up. .luckily I settled at an aluminium frame and at Force level
The best thing is for those who waits..and I'm still waiting for my dream bike (not yet achieved) |
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Apr 2 2013, 09:30 PM
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#150
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(minizian @ Apr 2 2013, 08:15 PM) Actually what happens to my foot when i unclip from pedal my foot will cramp? What is the name of the pills/tablet that will prevent cramp from happening while riding? Is it magnesium somthing? Stay hydrated throughout your ride. Consume plenty of isotonic drinks as they contains salts, magnesium, sodium, and whatever to prevent cramping.My ride buddy in KL bought the oral dehydration salt (u get free from clinic if you had diarrhea, the famous ORS), pour it into your mouth, drink mineral and gulp them all. Cheap ways. |
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Apr 2 2013, 11:02 PM
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#151
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 2 2013, 04:33 PM) my love is only for this 2 bikes minus the groupset for the parlee The wheels gonna looks nice on my new bike ![]() |
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Apr 3 2013, 01:31 AM
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#152
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 2 2013, 11:52 PM) It's around rm6.7k here. I held one in shop and they weigh pretty light on my first impression. My friend later bought a Cosmic Carbone SLR because he want more aero but I'd choose the former anytime. But the weight difference is 135g only compare to my Fr0. |
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Apr 3 2013, 02:17 PM
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#153
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Time to look at some carbon lightweight seatpost. 27.2mm..any recommendation? I prefer one with a bit of setback..
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Apr 3 2013, 02:27 PM
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#154
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59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
16mm only..2 bolts is preferrable. Seems like the lightest one is always without the setback.
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Apr 3 2013, 03:11 PM
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#155
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59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Spoilt. Too many choices. My stem is the sworks sl 100mm, alloy. 16mm ok lah else my fiting all lari banyak. Just want the looks, set back looks nicer
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Apr 3 2013, 03:44 PM
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#156
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 3 2013, 03:22 PM) if current fit requires u to use 0 setback, won't it it affect ur fit if u use a seatpost with setback, even with 16mm. it makes a difference. That one looks smiliar with my current one, the specialized sport alloy seatpost. My logic is 16mm is not too much and can adjust the saddle position to compensate the setback, 16mm not too much anyway.mrjgx's logic? btw u can try fizik's cyrano. minimal setback. the prob is, their black is not really black. there's a brownish colour to it http://www.artscyclery.com/Fizik_Cyrano_Se...ge-FZCSP27.html QUOTE(butthead @ Apr 3 2013, 03:35 PM) Im trying to reduce some grams too la. Haha at the same time make it looks cun |
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Apr 4 2013, 04:06 AM
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#157
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 3 2013, 03:51 PM) when it comes to bikefit, every mm counts. for example, the top tube horizontal distance of tarmac size XS and S is 19mm difference. not a lot u think? that's a 1 size up. 16mm, u can consider that 3/4 size up. A Tarmac is one serious back breaking frame..I still left a 5mm spacers,can't and no need to slam..btw, saddle mounted on a setback seatpost but has to be pushed forward beyond the halfway point of the saddle rail, is FUGLY how about this one? http://www.eastoncycling.com/en-us/road/co.../race/ec90-zero matte carbon This I agree. A saddle will look fugly if it pushed beyond the halfway point. I'll avoid that for sure! The Easton one looks exactly the same as my current specialized alloy sport. 200grams..not weightweenie enough lor. |
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Apr 4 2013, 10:40 AM
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#158
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59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Haha. The geometry is almost similar la with Tarmac SL 4...go check the specs at Specialized website..very2 similar. It's like buying a downgraded version of the sworks sl4 (exaggerated a bit)
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Apr 4 2013, 10:43 AM
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#159
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Junior Member
59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
QUOTE(miaopurr @ Apr 4 2013, 08:55 AM) i suggested easton because it's matte carbon and minimal stickers. suits your frame. u really serious about shaving some grams? fine. u want weightweenie stuff, here I saw this brand and stuffs at the lbs and seems pretty expensive and out of my reach. Actually I kinda like the sworks one but they don't come in all black color so that's why I didn't buy during that time..http://ax-lightness.de/en/cycling/bike-com...atposts/europa/ |
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Apr 4 2013, 03:30 PM
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#160
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59 posts Joined: Mar 2007 |
Haha. Trolling day eh?
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