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 Proton Prevé V17, steady as she goes

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swk_sam
post Mar 17 2013, 03:32 PM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 17 2013, 03:27 PM)
then u will notice at last bar, it goes empty quite fast...first bar is not accurate..cannot measure like that...
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I always use benchmark of average 55km/bar full tank pump at RM80 @ RM0.18/km.
swk_sam
post Mar 17 2013, 04:06 PM

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QUOTE(arthur88 @ Mar 17 2013, 03:45 PM)
mine is avg 50km/bar...using bhp and esso same only...but different car different behaviour...

ps: duno how many times talk about this ady...
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Should be different leg different fc haha... Actually me also manage to get 50/bar sometimes lower lol... 55/bar is my target haha
swk_sam
post Mar 21 2013, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(archiq @ Mar 21 2013, 12:17 PM)
thanks mat79 for ur advice.. will try to remember this on my daily driving as i always stuck in jam..  thumbup.gif
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QUOTE(Pace @ Mar 21 2013, 08:07 PM)
Mat, I always find your posting informative. Presumably you have some involvement with Proton.  Most of us based on experience with other cars. 3 or 4 version of lyn preve later, anybody who does not go throught the numerous versions and pages will miss out on your input. Prevoc or Prevec easier to find. I suspect the air intake route for the Preve and worst still for the Exora does affect the fuel consumption. (Will experiment with CAI later) Not that much better than an open pod in stop and go in traffic. Coupled with the long ratio  between 4 (after the super close 1234] and 567 where the tcu program goes quickly to 7, the cfe has torque but it ain't a turbo diesel and 20kg translating to 18kg on wheel isn't a heck of a lot torque to lug 1.4 tonnes around town or up a mountain. I can't expect good consumption from a 5 speed manual tranny if if I slot straight to 5 after the 2nd gear in moving traffic.
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I find out that do not press the pedal so hard when u wan to move, just press linearly (make sure u can handle the temp tongue.gif ) every time even in traffic jam. I manage to hit 7.1l/100km, RM0.13/km @ highway & 8.5-9l/100km, RM0.16-RM0.17/km in city drive. But most of the time i only can hit 10l/100km, RM0.19 because of the power temptation. laugh.gif
Actually, fuelly.com do have a lot of tips how to increase fc. Go check that out =D

QUOTE(JJTam @ Mar 21 2013, 02:02 PM)
What antenna did you change to? By the way what is the headlamp projector, high beam and fog light bulb type for preve?
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I changed to long Gen2 Antenna from day 1 i collect the car, I nv experience poor radio signal unless i am in poor signal area that i know, I felt the signal is as good as my old Waja. U can get 1 =D

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Mar 21 2013, 08:25 PM
swk_sam
post Mar 21 2013, 08:43 PM

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QUOTE(Darkcloudz @ Mar 21 2013, 08:40 PM)
u changed antenna cos the reception is not good?
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I change the antenna because of i am using it on my Waja. Yet i read some comment that Preve radio reception is bad tongue.gif
swk_sam
post Mar 23 2013, 10:03 AM

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QUOTE(Gigabit @ Mar 23 2013, 09:30 AM)
No magnetrap, no X1R treatment...not other optional stuffs...

Semi if you want to service every 5,000km and you want to save on cost

Fully if you want to service every 10,000km and you have lots of $$$

Try Sec 13 Service Centre...recommended
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No magnet trap is a very wrong decision, for new car it recommended to use it as it not exp. It will help to reduce friction in your engine. My first service with Magnet trap, semi synthetic, oil filter and few regular service just 190+.

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Mar 23 2013, 10:05 AM
swk_sam
post Mar 23 2013, 03:11 PM

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QUOTE(Gigabit @ Mar 23 2013, 11:03 AM)
Errr...magnetrap is optional...for me...it is not necessary..magnetrap is to trap metal particles. Pls note that our engine block is made of aluminium alloy, only the piston are made of steel, in any case, there is minimal metal particels and our oil filter is supposed to trap all this in the 1st place...save the RM69.

Of course, if you are the type who does not change the oil filter often, magnetrap may be useful.
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I am not sure what material is it, for my opinion, some other part inside the engine might be metal. Pls take note that newer engine is tighter between the parts. This is y ppl recommend to use lower viscosity motor oil compare to older engine. If we can pay 72k for a car, why cant we buy some sort of insurance just for RM69? Just my 2cent wink.gif

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Mar 23 2013, 03:27 PM
swk_sam
post Mar 23 2013, 03:24 PM

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QUOTE(maverickng @ Mar 23 2013, 03:14 PM)
engine block made of cast iron,crankshaft,conrod,liner,etc is steel
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I agree too, if can provide some link to those info might be great, i am a curious learner lol but lazy to search sometime haha whistling.gif
swk_sam
post Mar 23 2013, 03:33 PM

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QUOTE(dares @ Mar 23 2013, 03:25 PM)
The Magnetrap product is a sound concept, except the magnets on it are too weak to be off any useful effect. Imagine, some users have complained that the bloody thing just fell off the car and disappeared.

Try to find a wrecked harddisk, open it up and take out the magnet, then find a way to fasten it to the oil filter.
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It is not a concept, its proven. wink.gif

http://youtu.be/qvQvesH18nM
swk_sam
post Mar 25 2013, 08:16 AM

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QUOTE(jacobin1983 @ Mar 24 2013, 10:39 PM)
Hi, just got my CFE 3 days ago. Most of the time, when I start to move from standstill using D transmission (especially on the traffic light at hill slope), the car hardly can get to move and it started to jerks awhile, where I need to press the fuel pedal very hard to move the car. Is this normal?

Then I tried to use S mode. Car easier to pick up from stand still compare to D mode but the car still jerks. My chasis is around 31xxx, i think this is not the ECU remap problem ?
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Remap the ecu on your next service. Problem will be solve, just understand the new engine & gearbox characteristic, u will soon can handle it better. We Malaysians are too get use to Japanese engine characteristic. smile.gif
swk_sam
post Apr 1 2013, 05:57 PM

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QUOTE(iriahk89 @ Apr 1 2013, 10:05 AM)
gotmy baby blue lagoon in saturday..several issues

1.gluk gluk sound when bracking at high speed above 60km i think
2.wind noise..dont know come from where
3.sluggishness effect from ECU not remapped
4.alignment..little bit to the left...

But i have read this forum 2 month before i buy the car..so i know all this probs had been solved..so sebab tak bahaya i just wait for my 1k service to slove all this prob..another thing i feel like the suspension is not really good as at highway feel like goyang2 a bit..my wife also feel that..but of course better than my previuos kancil..btw love my preve cfe very much..tq LYN for all the information..wiil keep in touch to this forum for a long time now
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QUOTE(allenultra @ Apr 1 2013, 10:56 AM)
Get your wheel alignment/balancing done, and check the tyre pressure too (usually showroom unit pump up till 40psi).
Then report to us again about the stability.

GT Radial BAX2 is no good in dry high speed, on wet? It is bad.
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I suspect Preve suspension length is like as R3 waja sport spring. I mean it had same feeling like waja with r3 sport spring that will make some ppl say goyang and some say bumpy. But I have to agree that stock absorber is sucks. Waiting super touring abs come out 1 for Preve. smile.gif


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