Xin, I know who's silver city is that. If i'm thinking of the same owner, he no longer has it. haha.
Btw, I'm running on Yokohama A Drive R1. no issues.

Vuilun, two possibilities.
1) surface rust/wet brakes. usually after wash car or in the mornings. sound or surface rust will go away after some light stopping at a junction or two. usually no issues.
2) your brake discs are warped. This happens when the brake pad material sticks to the brake discs especially after hard braking and not letting them cool down before you park your car. So it causes the brake disc surface to be uneven. The cause of this is actually Honda OEM brake pads. If you wanna solve this problem, change new aftermarket pads and discs at the same time. Usually you can bring your own pads to SC and they will help u install. Or, install new discs at SC, and bring your car to workshop to change pads.

FYI SC procedure is to skim twice before allowing u to claim warranty. If you close to your SA, ask him straight help u claim warranty and change brake pads also.

My car had the same problem. without fail it will occur cause the temperature rating on the OEM pads are crap. So i resolved the whole matter by swapping out the OEM discs and pads. Replaced them with Brembo Max discs, and project U bestop pads. Total damage around RM700. But from that day till now, no issues at all. But I have this habit when I park my car, especially after driving fast, to touch my rims before i walk away so i know how hot my brakes are. usually it's warm to touch as in i can hold my finger there for a while.

If it is the same car I'm guessing then yes. There were a few of us using this tyre.

Bro, i guarantee u, will not hit fender. even fully loaded balik kampung, 5 people in the car on highway, rear fender also won't kena.
45 series will be too thin. speedo will be under.

So far, drove to SG a few times with 5 people in the car. ok la. cause overall, it's almost stock. If you change rim and put 205 then it will depend on the offset. if you still use +45 shouldn't hit. maybe +43 and below might.

Skylinegtr34
bro, if rusted, means damn deep. I know honda clear coat is thin. Depending how bad, might be able to touch up. I think some stockist sell the touch up paint. but, it won't look good to the finish. plus, not to scare u, but the rust can spread if untreated. depending on how the scratch is.

one radio louder only la. lol

depends le. sometimes u suay get wrong batch, sometimes the fella dunno how to install correctly (touch the glass with his fingers)

I'm on philips crystalvision. one bulb fused once. so had to buy another set. about RM180.
Change my fogs to the same lights, RM190-210. see nego skills. haha

Good thing about philips, come with matching T10s.

H11. Yes a bit, cause need to remove the front banana leaf. lol
i was doing some stuff to my car, and my bumper was already removed. so i just added the fog lamp.
I find the projection ok. very good if on dark roads la. normal lit roads can't really see the beam.

1.5k a bit hard. 2k maybe can. Caska lor

You can, but I wouldn't advise you to.
#1, you'll need the fog lights to begin with. Original honda part for that not cheap. Last i remember, almost 1k
#2, you need the bumper with the cut out.
#3, wiring harness
#4, you'll need the switch. For old City and Jazz no problem cause fog light switch used to be on the dashboard panel the 3 empty switch holes there. for new city/jazz, it's on the lights/indicator stalk.

So unless you are willing to spend this much on getting foglights and with proper installation, it's just not worth it. Personally, i wouldn't waste my time and money with those shops that just cut out a space and put on any button at the dashboard switch board.

And also, original foglight shines to the corners. it doesn't shine straight. you wouldn't miss it. better u invest in DRL than to retrofit fog lamps.


Btw, I think i owe someone some pictures of my NHC with crystalvision on both lowbeam and fogs right? hHAHA
post later tonight. tomorrow labour day. got more time on my hands tonight.

forgot where i heard, but it's not good to flush your transmission.
a simple drain, and refill will do. when u drain the ATF, whatever loose bits of metal will follow it. now, imagine after draining, you flush the transmission. whatever sediments leftover, will just be washed around the entire transmission.
unless you really have a transmission problem, tell them don't need to flush. just drain and replace the ATF will do.
same goes for the engine flush nonsense. You have a oil filter and u change oil regularly for a reason. there should be no need to flush an engine.

Service center gimmick to make more money from u. they can say longer labour, and use more ATF. labour itself you should know the SC don't charge cheap. imagine they plug that machine for 30 mins, they will charge u. and is the guy even there working on your car? no. just the machine running.

anyone running on eibach prokit springs?
I don't want to put on a GAB SS or any other fully adjustables cause i don't see myself using it much. will set at one setting then never touch again.

Considering Eibach but then when absorber kong, headache dunno which to get also. lol. my car already 3 years anniversary. can do whatever i want with it now

I had two sounds from behind.
one was third brake light, the other was the whole rear board.
no solution yet.

just go HT. haha.

i think she up-ed the price a bit. i think got RM350. cause after shreddy did it, apparently the work was more than expected cause of the actuator placement. if not right, it won't release the lock. and also wiring.

give karen a call lo. then while waiting for your car, ask her belanja u teh o ais.

oh i kena before. attempted break in.
and HM charge too much so I just sealed it with number plate.
so now to open boot, a bit troublesome la. HAHA. sometimes i think about this po-40, maybe a good thing also. but between me walking to my driver door and pulling a handle and RM350, i think twice again. haha.

dude, be more specific la. every car also got sound la like that.
are you driving S or E spec?
if E spec, try replicate this by putting in S, and manual shift to 3rd gear.

the key thing is are you able to replicate this issue every single time on the same conditions so you can shoot your SA with proof.
if not, Honda's brilliant SA will just tell u checked but no fault.

one shot go HT, seal it with carbon fiber plate and do Po-40 la. haha
ask for discount

think that time honda charge 280 for replacement together with keys.
HT charge me 70 for new number plates front and back. HAHA. soooo. yea i sealed it instead of fixing the hole

This post has been edited by MoNnY: May 16 2013, 11:08 AM

wrong liao then. dunno which funny technician write for u.
go and scold them.
Service interval is always 5k or 3 months whichever come first.
In your case, the 3 months will come before each 5k. nothing wrong.

The 3 months is actually their SOP for mineral oil. if you're on semi synth, it should go further than that.

whichever first bro. if at 3 months your car is 4k milleage but already 3 months, then follow the timing not milleage.

as for your first service, it should be 3 months or +5k at the date of service. not when u bought the car.

and IMHO, honda's full synth not worth it. If you want balance between performance and FC and must use honda oil for warranty purpose, their semi synth is good enough.

exactly. which is why i would recommend the semi synth. the mineral and fully synth not worth it

Philips Crystalvision. H11 bulb. RM190-220 depending where u go.
I got mine from HT Auto in PJ.

btw, my headlights and fog matches.