I also don't know.....minyak man lost track of all minyak liao. Anyway, I don't buy lube from spare part shops, lots of fake. Can't differentiate, even shop owners and mechanics also cannot differentiate. So I always buy lube from official channels, more expensive but lube garanteed original. The only lube buying from unofficial ones is the idemitsu FS, coz using a few years liao, FS should be original. Some more Idemitsu not available in spare part shops, go straight to workshop thus not much "re-sale" value, hopefully fakers don't bother faking it since there are way more famous brands everybody used outside....like shell, castrol, bardahl, etc.

ps. I also looking for spare part shops to buy ORIGINAL proton parts. Anyone know or not. If not have to go buy from SC, marked up.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 27 2012, 11:24 AM

Yes, primary suspect is battery tho with proton, anything else also can kong wan...

Battery very difficult to say wan, some lasted 3 years also can, some less than 1 year for the same kind of battery.

1 year warranty

Call insurance company come tow (most insurance have FOC on road service nowadays)......they also can fix or jumpstart if its really battery problem.

If you start got no sound.....and the immobilizer light is blink (the red blinking light in meter panels), then on the car alarm (lock the car using remote), then unlock the car again (using car remote).

Sometimes the immobilizer went kookoo.

Go for Polo Sedan...

Err...for a guy that say all paint workshop paint same quality ones......I don't think you should trust him too much on car in-depth knowledge, even if that guy is your dad. Probably he's just plain lucky the last 3 times.

I tot you've gone for RM2400 ones....so now did your father think saving the RM700 difference on paint workmanship and quality is worth it? Told you my story on RM1800 job heartache...may as well not paint rather than save the few hundred that makes the thousands that you spend on it worth the price.

Paint peeling is worst case of combination of lousy workmanship and probably lousy paint.....they've skimmed on something, ie....sealent, etc.

That depends on who is doing the mudguard job. My mudguard mech which I've known since my Iswara days, would FIX every single dents found before sending for repaint. Unfortunately he's not good at painting and sometimes the shops he send do is not doing a perfect job. Spoiled his excellent dent corrections.

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Added on December 28, 2012, 9:08 amGua not familiar with this semi syn lube, whats the pricing? For me, why use a SM lube now when you have good SN semi syn lubes available (ie. Caltex)..

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Added on December 28, 2012, 9:14 amQuestion is what is to treat WHEN you engine is still new. For me, its still a gimmick, may have some effect not worth the price, IMO.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 28 2012, 09:14 AM

Wah...explanation like that means you better buy coffin now since you also don't know when you gonna die..

In most cases, we won't know unless you keep a voltmeter in your car. There might sometimes be symptom like harder to start where it cranks slowly during cold starting, light dimming, RPM unstable (jumping a bit), etc.

If you're not sure, then at every service interval, you can ask mechanic to check the battery voltage. In general, if voltage is 14 volts running but the voltage is less than the 12 volts with the engine off, your battery is not holding a charge and should be replaced.


Otherwise drive until it fails or you begin to suspect something wrong...keep phone number of AAM or insurance tow call service at hand.

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Added on December 28, 2012, 9:28 amIt's best to let eric install for you when you buy from him. Each car got their own most effective spots for grounding, he knows it all. He also do cleaning of battery terminal for you as well....foc.

As for the affect, currently driving the civic since he installed both VS and GC last week, acceleration smoothen, cold start smoother and somehow lessen a bit on engine noise and vibration. VS might not have much affect on these but GC.....I recommend it esp for cars where stock GC has corroded....big difference.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 28 2012, 09:28 AM

I don't recommend flushing on anything. Just shorten the interval of your ATF change by half, change it early, 1 or 2 times, it will clear itself unless it has already sludge.

Engine wise, I do not recommend syn to "clean" the engine....coz chances are you're going to drag 10K to "cover" the price. Use semi syn, service at 5K interval on time, do that a few times to "clean" the engine properly. The 5K semi syn interval is better to "clean" the engine than 10K high efficient FS. You can go for Havoline semi syn 10W40 with its rating of SN that upgraded cleaning properties and anti-wear.

I got kena b4 in CoSE as well and luckily at that time I'm one of the first around. They let me service 1st. Since that time, I always recorded the DATE, TIME and the person I talked to, during reservation. So if they don't record in system, I can quote the date and time I call to reserved maybe weeks and months before AND identify the person I talked to...

Before 10K, its best to continue using semi to allow engine to "mold" in well. Slightly more friction in engine to allow blending the surface of parts against each other is preferable.

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Added on December 28, 2012, 1:20 pmProton officially allow 10K servicing schedule if using FS.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 28 2012, 01:20 PM

FS smoother lubrication while greatly appreciated for reduced engine friction and wear with better performance actually was detrimental for new engine where it requires some friction to "mold". Some high end cars comes with a vet engine (engine has been run in factory), thus recommended to use FS straight. Most mass produced cars did not go thru these pre-run in process as it requires time and money on manufacturers side. Only higher end cars are worth their time to do it pre-delivery.

Just drove PE today after a week in my house. I can't identify whether anything improve or not but I just service 30K mileage a couple of weeks ago. As of now, engine is even more muted but that happen since last change of 2nd time Havoline semi. Acceleration this morning is superb, pickup seems stronger. Light no difference....not too much difference compared with my 4 year old Civic. Note that PE is only 1.5 years old and original stock GC are better than Hondas (as mentioned by Eric). Anyhow no regret.....very easy to start in early morning.

50% tint is dark side tint liao at borderline.....70% windscreen is at borderline....+ the original windscreen thickness, all definitely falls below JPJ guideline liao. Anyway I'm using clear VKool 70 all around, front windscreen at 70~71%....sure failed liao with + the original windscreen thickness.

If go for original VKool Elite package, they will use VKool 70 at side but used lower quality for front to hike up the VLT to above 80% garanteeing JPJ compliancy....but heat rejection sharply down.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 31 2012, 10:04 AM

Price wise, its not expensive, ok. However at 30K, standard minor service INVOLVED only engine oil and oil filter.

ATF supposedly only change at 40K but some very jaga gearbox can change at 30K (optionally, I did not do that tho) but uses only 4liter not 6 liter. However PE manual indicated 5 liters used, so maybe.

Air filter also should only change at 40K (20K interval like ATF) but I changed every 10K too....big difference in performance, so air filter ok, its cheap but question is the air filter original. I know celup wan is cheaper but original also not expensive only RM20~30 ringgit.

Brake fluid should also change at 40K, why change it so early. It uses sucking out only, so at 40K, you should do full brake fluid drain at each tyre pump....need abt 4 liters.

Probably other parts like pads wear and tear is already thin liao, so if necessary change.

So conclusion, price is fair, not expensive BUT the 3 parts mentioned above are supposedly done at 40K major service, not 30K. I don't find it necessary to change brake fluid now and truly drained them only at 40K, air filter change was prefered, ATF truly optional but its good if you got the dough, can wait for 40K.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 31 2012, 09:57 AM

How should we know since PE maintenance sheet only indicate 5 liter at most. So what happen to the extra 1 liter and question is why 2 different type of ATF is listed, should not mix since both atf addictives are different.

No, do not go for the stock Bosch, as you know spew brake dust like you spew sp*rm all over...

If you want stock PE brake pad, go for FBK, also an OEM supplier for Proton same brake strength as Bosch but very little brake dust. I'm using FBK for front pads now, so far same braking distance as stock but since rear still using original Bosch, very big difference in rim coloring after usage some time...still silver for front but turned gunmetal color for rear.

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Added on January 2, 2013, 9:08 amYou can change the 3 air-cond button kah? My local SC checked cannot find anything, so cannot change (they can't change anyway, have to go CoSE to do it). Did not drive much PE since then, so cannot verify the frequency of the air-cond auto turn on/off with the first knob air-cond light blinking.

Have to go CoSE once before May warranty expire to check and hopefully can claim warranty IF they can replicate the issue....darn sien thinking of calling CoSE and go wait there for whole day for a single repair.

CoSE got no leng lui to see wan....if got also malay aunties......the bigger size wan...

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Added on January 2, 2013, 9:13 amI using Shell petrol ler....for all my cars since using wife petrol card. Frankly I don't find any problem with it. Esso also same power for me.....but somehow save a bit more petrol....maybe a bit more power thus less tekan.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Jan 2 2013, 09:13 AM

Actually wet battery also can kong without noticeable symptom. If Manlet problem is indeed the battery (one of my post earlier indicated harder crank start as one of major symptom of battery failure), the MF battery gave the same symptom as wet. Lots of wet battery also failed earlier. It really depends on luck. All my cars now running Panalite MF batteries and 1 lasted 3 years liao, still going strong (albeit I have a full set VS, GC and alternator direct PC Cable installed in that car tho)..

Only issue is whether the driver notice of the symptoms before total failure.

From what I know, the VS does not store the electricity for long especially for cold start. So harder cold crank start symptom will still appear when your battery is weak and drained, so will the VS.