QUOTE(sylar2000 @ Nov 20 2012, 01:58 PM)

ok dude, i will avoid go to machine car wash then..


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Added on November 20, 2012, 2:04 pm

so i must wash and wax.. avoid polish right?

so let put it this way..
I live in a apartment, and I park my car in building la.. My car will not be under hot sun most of time, so if i apply wax on my car.. it will last for 1 month or so?

I planning to wash and wax my self, but I dont know what to do and dont do..

sorry to say, I also dono how to use wax.. but im willing to learn..

maybe you could suggest me any good wax product?

If i share wax from a friend, can I apply it to my car? his car is brown/yellow colour, while mine was black..


If you lazy like me , then go sierra glow.....professional application of glass sealent, can last 5 years or something like that. RM500-Rm700. Expensive right....think again, if you go polish and wax outside every couple of months for next 4-5 years....end up more expensive and polish damage paint very slightly. Wax wears out fast, so how long max protection you got for each wax session, by a couple of weeks, wax might be thinned or gone, any scratch will hit paint straight. Permanent/Long term sealent will continue protect without fading at ALL TIME during a specific periods (years). Thats the advantage those long term sealent helped vs own self short term waxing.

Of course if you DIY, very cheap but takes time....you'll probably do it in the first year....after that...

You can polish, its the only way to shine a dull paint as wax do nothing to "brighten" the car.....just don't do it often. Once or twice a year at most.

Specific tootpaste remove watermark, imagine what it do to your teeth when it keeps removing layer and layer of whatever teeth protection you got. Those expensive toothpaste, ie for sensitive teeth might not do that as they are more gentle and less damaging for the teeth..

Back to topic, if toothpaste remove scratches, it means it REMOVED a layer of your windows liao....no it does not do that, coz if it does, habis all teeth if guna that toothpaste.

Go buy those glass scratch remover, had one at home, never use it tho....

How to pull out the drawer ah....takut patah...

Ya lor....when first time you sleep with a new girl.....very song, very fresh, very beautiful......keep wanting more but after sleeping for a hundred time....whatever beautiful thing also gone liao.....its time to upgrade...

Not really lar....all guys also ham sap wan....got change sure naik. However that is just pure lust.....has not factor in the love equation.....coz with love, song or boh song also very song......loves conquers all...

(Ini reply sounds right or not....)

This post has been edited by Cavino: Nov 26 2012, 01:27 PM

Changing our stock size 195/60/R15 to 195/55/R15 is a big no no. Main reason is the size difference exceeded 3% guideline of tyre diameter size difference that might cause failure to your braking system. Practically all tyre experts advise against it. But some still goes for it....if nothing happens, then all its goods but the risk of failure supposedly increased exponentially once exceeded this limit....unless they mod their braking system as well.

I assume you're satisfied with current size (for me it has the perfect balance of comfort and good non aggressive performance) on stock suspension. If yes, I would advise using back the same tyre size albeit having very limited choice in tyres. Also anything above 55 is considered non performance tyre, so my initial choice of PS3, V12, Neuton etc all can baling longkang liao. If want those good tyres....change the size....205/55/R15 will be a good bet at 1.4% difference if you want to stay on 15"...

Do note lowering the height 60 to 55 will decrease the comfort level, more bumpiness. Grip will be better due to wider tyres but more makan minyak since more road contact.

I'm leaning towards Yokohama C-Drive 2 for stock size although it has louder noise issue in its later life but wet and drive performance has no complain so far by the users. Michelin XM2 is ok but pricey tho. CC5......not so great nowadays compared with the other 2. So thats abt the only good choice you have if you stay with stock.

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Added on November 28, 2012, 4:10 pmActually that is not the best reason to give him on putting new tyres at back.

Have explained b4 thats its for safety reason. Front old tyres less grip, less feeling of new tyres BUT we can control thru steering if lose grip. Rear tyres if lose grip, can buang wan....unless you're an expert driver with split second drive skills response, then can recover.

Having new good grip in front will cause false "feeling" of better grip while IGNORING the fact that the old rear tyres does not have as good a grip as the front new tyres, you will tend to corner faster, run faster and end up tail will buang at times....

Do note front less grip also can buang but we can still control steering to readjust back, rear buang.....there is no control at all. So new tyres goest to rear, old tyres goes to front as recommended BY ALL reputable tyres manufacturer.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Nov 28 2012, 04:10 PM

Michelin XM2 higher sure got extra benefit......in that you're using an expensive Michelin

Its a balanced non performance tyres but C-Drive2 wet performance seems to have better review....do watch out for louder tyre noise at later life for C-Drive2 (it does comes with bigger drain, so the extra noise). Thats abt the only negative I've heard abt C-Drive 2. XM2 will be a safe bet tho....no complain whatsoever although performance wise seems to lose out a bit to C-Drive 2.

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Added on November 28, 2012, 4:21 pmCan change the size from 60 to 55 but you have to change the width as well to stay. Reducing the height but increase the width will remains within the 3% limit....ie 205/55/R15. So is increase the height and reducing the width but who wants to do that...

Others might say its ok, since nothing happens to them.....but as mentioned the braking failure RISK increased EXPONENTIALLY once exceeded, so might not have failure....in that I will say they're lucky.



This post has been edited by Cavino: Nov 28 2012, 04:21 PM

Sifu punya explanation makes me feel puny....

That means if upsize tyre and change lighter rim, then ok......but if upsize and use back stock rim...have to watch out for the diameter differences lor...

Somehow I like the original rim, heavy duty means less chances of rim bengkok if run thru potholes...where our darn KL road, even federal highways (esp on high speed lanes) got lots of holes. Just run into 3 minor potholes (including a huge one for half past size manhole filling at road behind Citibank. Luckily no damage....I think.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Nov 29 2012, 11:58 AM

What Zen mentioned on servicing is the correct way to remove any minor sludge builtup. Since we don't know if sludge has been formed, we can only assume so, since you exceeded the recommended change by 3x. Don't know what type of damage has been done to your engine, as your detergent, protection, anti-wear and whatever protective addictives your EO has was long gone.

Try to go for SN rate lube now coz SN rated usually has higher level of detergent addictives than SM rate ones. However that is subjective has some good brands rated at SM has exceeded SM requirement in one of more of the addictives. SN rated just makes sure the min. addictives is higher than that of SM.

Higher detergent addictives would be preferable to desludge your engine gradually, if any. Change to branded semi EO (preferable SN rated) and new oil filter, then check your EO every 1K-2K usage. Makes sure you check while engine is cold (b4 you start your car). Use the dipstick and drip it on a paper. Spread the oil, if its still watery, ok, continue using. Even if it is dark in color but still translucent (can see thru even if it's dark in color), can continue using.

If it started to turn honey (sticky) and/or so black that you cannot see thru it anymore. Then change EO AND OIL FILTER (yes, even if its only 1K-2K mileage), coz that is sludge forming or the contaminant leftover is so heavy, the current lube might exceeded its suspension capacity. It might be costly to change it so early but if the symptom is as mentioned, you have no choice, that's the price to pay for skipping lube change ON SEMI LUBE by 3 times its life capacity. If its fully syn, some more boleh tahan, but semi change schedule is the same as normal dino lube.

Continue using semi (NOT FS) for the next few services (35K, 40K, 45K) at the least and change accordingly at 5K service interval to continue cleaning the engine. A good lube will slowly desludge the engine if sludge has formed. DO NOT used any ENGINE FLUSH to desludge. Just on time engine oil change

FYI Havoline semi is rated SN at RM104.

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Added on December 3, 2012, 2:46 pmIMO, our fuel needle follows our driving pattern one. In another word, predictive rather than actual fuel level is displayed. So if we tekan kau kau, your fuel needle will go low and will finish fast. However if we change our driving pattern to light footed driving, it will then slowly rise coz it predict based on the CURRENT driving pattern, your fuel will last longer, so the earlier predicted fuel range is change from low to high, thus it goes up.

So far this is the only car I've seen that are doing that......maybe other proton also but definitely not wira.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 3 2012, 02:46 PM

That is WHAT other cars fuel gauge did but proton needle was screwed, on highway, do hard driving, the fuel gauge will drop like shit, then do light driving, after a while, it will goes up again....on a flat highway...I have seen no other car with this kind of gauging....

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Added on December 3, 2012, 3:18 pmThat is good news for him....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 3 2012, 03:24 PM

I think proton engineers is trying out its hidden function that double as ECO driving gauge.....drive economically, reward, tambah fuel.....drive like perut sakit rushing to toilet...deduct more fuel that you usually has...

Next breed of eco driving hybrid evolution to proton high tech coming...

Mmm....I serviced my 2006 City VTEC every 5K on FS and I'm not rich....so how ar...

There is a solution, use 6 months to hit 5K lor....by 6 months its time to change lube whether you use 10K or 3K mileage. Oxidisation that turn acidic risk if wait longer.

Now I already change my thinking on 5K max usage on FS. Lube tech has improved, engine tech has improved, so 7-10K service schedule should be ok. What I'm still in doubt is the oil filter. Can it filter efficiently up to 10K? Do note, our weather, heavy dust (look at your car after minor drizzle), humidity, etc do contribute to contaminate the lube greatly when compared to those living by countryside.

So FS can hold contaminant better but does is the filter up to par. More expensive car used good and expensive oil filter but our proton or even Honda ones, can tahan or not, I still greatly doubt so. It will still works up to 10K but efficiency down? clogging if happens means bypass mode might be activate that no filteration later.

Gua darn pessimistic......I think I'll keep to 5K schedule / 5-6 months service interval for my City.....maybe slightly since I want to maintain good performance and intend to keep my car (7 years liao, still optimum performance according the the mech)...haih, time to change the aging car but in reality, engine, chassis, transmission still performs almost as new, so a bit unwilling to let go.

Gua punya PE, 1.5 years, makes more noise than my City liao. Havoline Semi helps but build quality issue still a bit lacking tho have to admit much improved that before PE era.

Also do proton really cares abt long term durability of our engine. They can promote 10K mileage on FS with oil filter not up to par also never mind, coz these problems will SLOWLY accumulate....won't see immediate degraded performance or damage. Warranty only 2 years, engine problems comes after 3-5 years.....

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 5 2012, 03:03 PM

You asked if PE standard now good for your wife? My answer is no. The handling although superb, you wife might not "appreciate" it. Although driving kaki do.

Drum brake coupled with 1.3 brake pump, not so good for braking. Pickup too weak unless you mod LCP. The accs you mentioned before is all for H-Line, near 60K version. I would say, if Preve is not your cup of tea (makan minyak also), I would go for non-national car at 70K budget range, if its still within your budget, ie. lowest range for Almera, Polo Sedan, Vios J, etc. Either that or the next viable budget option....Myvi 1.5. All these cars are much more suitable for women drivers with comfort being the primary concern vs "handling" (besides Myvi), thus your wife will appreciate it more.

Never like Prius C, very small for a hybrid. Jazz Hybrid no butt...both are near 90K ~ 100K cars, a bit too expensive if you're talking abt purchasing PE in the first place. If macam ini, lets hike it up.....go buy Polo STi, very good car for women....but then again, if you want to buy ini punya car, chances are you will NOT give it to your wife liao.....drive sendiri...

While swift is a good handling car with feminine outlook....its downfall for me is the very compact space inside. Probably thicker cushion or something but I feel darn "tight" seating inside. I feel much more comfortable with the spaciousness of Myvi but don't really like the milo tin feel tho. My wife tot of Swift at one time but after just a look inside (she's used to City etc), backout of even thinking abt swift, not practical at long term when you have kids (IMO).

I'm using RainX since 7 years ago on all my cars. The wiper do seems to judder but then I rarely used wiper coz water beads just drop off and drip down straight. When running on higher speed, the drops will beads upwards, no need use wiper. Those drizzles where the droplets in tiny on city roads, I need to use wiper more often. It does not judder all the time tho...

My city using Aerotwin for years, surprisingly no judder at all using rainx. Applied rainx every 6 months or so. Wiper already 2 years old.

My PE also apply same interval. Stock wiper does not judder initially. Only starts juddering after 1 year. So I guess blade harden liao. I will keep using Rainx especially on rear and side windscreens where there is no wiper.

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Added on December 10, 2012, 12:34 pmPE service schedule printed from net mentioned stock plug change 10K but both COSE and Bukit Tinggi Klang SC say only change every 20K. So which one is correct?

My 30K service just past, prepare the Iridium Power plugs but since sc say change every 20K, will wait for 40K only change. Intend to use it for 30K period only. Now still wondering spark plug. My original stock plug DO change only at 20K service at COSE last time.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 10 2012, 12:34 PM

Which idiot will do sharp corner without slowing down? Even if not on auto-cruise, if corner at high speed without slowing, tyres might still lose grip.

The only difference between auto-cruise and non, is auto-cruise will NOT slow down as it will maintain the speed while non-cruise will slow down if we did not tekan accelerator.

When on auto-cruise, the moment you press brake or even accelerate to corner, even slightly, auto-cruise will be de-activated. So for me, its a mute point on sharp corners unless the driver did not realise a sharp corner is in front.....but then even without auto-cruise, when one did not realise sharp corner in front, same danger.

Get XP3 from either Petronas or SC. SP3 is no longer in use unless some SC still using old stock.

Both Cose and Bukit Tinggi SC using Petronas XP3 as stock now. IMO, if don't know where to buy, just buy direct from SC and change outside.

Actually flushing of engine and transmission IS NOT RECOMMENDED by most experts. It was used as last resort when everything else fails.....that means only if you develop problems and cannot be solved by any other means. Flushing has a risk of damaging your engine and transmission by clogging whatever pathways, etc.

Those that recommended flushing are mechanics who tends to earned much more from the service.

If you change your transmission fluid regularly, there is ABSOLUTELY NO NEED of flushing. If you really want to "flush", the best non damaging and clean way to do it is to fill your transmission, run it for a 1-2 km mileage, then change the fluid again. It will clean your transmission as well. If its clogged, that means you did not change tranny oil for long time, if cannot service and still clog.....then only last resort....flush coz got no other choice. If you flush even when your tranny got no issue, well....you might create the clogging yourself.

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Added on December 12, 2012, 8:47 amActually an interview with Chief Mechanic of SPOON in Japan.....the chief strongly suggest to CHANGE ATF at every EO change. Main reason, engine oil got cooling system to assist cooling it....gearbox does not. So its lube is running hot most of time....tends to oxidize faster. If you rev a lot...then shorten the interval of ATF change. For normal driver like me, will follow service schedule (severe category).

ps. I'm an advocate of early lube change....some call me overzealous....lol, I feel so as well sometimes but in a way, I'm just buying insurance for my car....changing lube ON schedule, 5K-6K service interval even for FS is a CHEAP insurance for a car that I will used for over 100K mileage. By the time it hit over 100K, the insurance is to still maintain optimum performance for my engine and tranny. I've done it zealously for my 2 City and confirmed by mechanic that even when hitting 100K, the performance, vibration, noise and cleanliness of engine is practically on par with a 10-20K mileage car.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 12 2012, 08:57 AM

Standby my *ss......Most likely lepak somewhere then go minum kopi, then go tandas, then go chit chat, then....time to balik. So the best time is where they are mostly likely at their place......when starting work and preparing to leave work.

Try calling near end of work ie. 4:30pm to 5:30pm or very early in the morning, 8am to 9:30am. More likely for them to pick up calls (based on my extremely hair tearing frustration in calling to reserve slot for last 1.5 years of servicing in COSE).

Have been servicing at Cose from 1K till 20K. Curse practically everytime I call......if lucky, 1-3 calls will do, usually takes me a whole day with 1 hour interval.....sometimes a couple of days. Its thats frustrating. The above stated hours is the most likely for them to pickup with reason as stated in my first paragraph.

I gave up on going Cose now liao. Service my car on 30K last friday at Bukit Tinggi Klang SC (near my house). Will continue to service there as long as no major warranty repair is needed. After that.....only major service go SC, minor outside mechanic.....(I curi curi service 25K outside).

The minor service at Klang at 8am reservation slot......45minute max. In COSE......7:30am wait till abt 11am to 12pm for a godd*mn lube change. 1 hour my *ss.

ps. 2nd lube change of Havoline Semi 10W40. Excellent and still muted engine noise with minimal vibration....easy on acceleration. When compared with Petronas semi, it REALLY MAKES A HUGE difference in comfort and performance.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Dec 13 2012, 04:01 PM