I have not install, but intended to buy from sg999 directly, since he's the f***er who poisoned me. I've done thorough survey and found welding cable price ranged from 80-150/meter @ 300amp. Sg999 have not confirmed me, but around RM200/1.5meter % 400amp. Sohigh oso can do the calculation, sg999 deal is worthy. Besides, letting our GaGa citizen earn some petrol wage sound really cool, just like supprting Marhaihai & pak SiuYi.

My current concern is, what happened if there's short circuit? Does the 400amp cable came with fuse box? Circuit breaker? 1 way diod to refrain electric flow from battery to alternator? Once all these being iron out, I will negotiate for bulk. Finger crossed
I dare not say how good sg999&eltonloo's GC are. The only thing I know is, those chiplak "HK5" cable doesn't work with my BLM. I feel no difference to the car AT ALL! However, those chiplak cable work like a charm in my then old iswaga & my current Gabby. Don't ask me, I don't know why. My next project is to source for 6 gauge power wire to customize grounding kit, also look for silver clip for best conduction. Another finger crossed for my BLM project.
Elton, people in forum love & hate me for the same reason. I komplen a lot, whine about FC, diao about performance, fcuk people selling expansive stuff that does nothing to performance. Love me for exploiting other weakness, hate me for finding alternative. People don't get to earn much from me. However, this time sg999 touched me. He kept on bugging me regarding VS+GC effect that I bad mouthed about, even come to TT just to correct my wrong perception. Since he managed to poisoned me, I promised if I were looking for any mods related, I will buy from him directly, no question ask.一言九鼎. I'm arrogant, but I'm reasonable. I was wrong about the no effect side, I wanted to explore more on this matter. Cheers.

Then if add on with fire storm, then it is the best???

I'm driving GaGa to work today. Ayam so poisoned by sg999's BLM. The engine response, acceleration, torque lifting, all gone south with the feeling of my stock BLM. I was down shifting when I hit Jinjang over a traffic light T junction, after heel & toe from 3rd gear to 2nd, as I step on my clutch pedal, RPM roaring up(delay lifting) despite I already released gas pedal. As I downshift to 2nd gear, I hit the gas pedal, RPM was lagged behind(delay acceleration), as & when I release my clutch pedal, suddenly RPM shoot up(delay lifting again) despite I already release gas pedal!!! As a result, the whole vehicle hesitaed in to an embarrassing jerk! I hate the throttle response!!!!! I hate stock setup!!!!!

he is one of the firestorm seller...

TROLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOLOL

must resist the poison   
yeah my car have jerking!
see my siggy 

last time i did complaint that engine gegar when the car is idle.

complaint to SC, then they said bla bla bla.
everything seems ok.
now i notice it coming back slowly

Juz2share...

4all Bros interested, Tesco now offering Shell Helix Ultra FS 5W40 EO 4L @only RM129!! 
My earlier purchase was @RM139!! 

Well, me bought 1 bottle...4future use lo...

TQ Z1 for the confirmation. However, I have more finding in 1 day, may be more than erictioh himself. Here we go for the detail:

Initially, after magician charged the VS from a static charger, we saw its already stable at 13.9V, so I disconnect it, bring it over to the car. As I walked towards my car, I figured the LED started to dim. Until I fully loosen the terminal, reconnect the VS, I figured it started to discharge drastically. Magician use a test meter to load the VS, left 11.8 volt. Magician was dulan, ripped off the VS & found inside lined up with rolls after rolls of capacitor. We found the voltage was 16V. So magician quickly came to a conclusion, reason for 16V is bcoz our car charging at 14.5V optimal, terefore a 12V capacitor could overheat very quickly, that's why eric ue 16V instead. However, the downside will be current quickly get discharged if not fully charged at 16V. That 1 hour when I was posting my previous post has gone down to drain, waste of time to dry run the capacitors.

2nd round, we disconnect the wires from the terminal, left the terminal attached at the battery, we took the entire battery + terminal hooked up with the VS,charge the entire battery+VS at the sametime for 2 hours! After that, we disconnect static charger. This time we tested reading stays at 13.2V for more than 10seconds togather with the battery!!! "Dry run in" success!!! We hook back up the whole battery + VS, everything is in order. We start the engine as usual.

Result was slightly better than my usual drive. I hit the pedal, there's significant improved on throttle lag response. I can see some different this time despite the VS was in the car for long time previously. Call it placebo, but it does show some difference. I do not have ECU "NUT" tunning in my car, so any improvement on engine response can be felt immediately. Pedal response is immediate. I hit the road for a long test drive whole afternoon until now, reach Kemuning, waiting for Nazri in the car typing this message. Overall, erictioh VS is very useable after a PROPER run in. Believe it or not, I've been using the VS since August, I have never felt the effect until today - get to fully charge the damn thing with a static charger!!! If compare it with the expansive VS my poison master sg999 is using, I believe its nothing to compare. Erictioh VS still lose half a kilometer. The initial acceleration has been improved, but the pedal lifting response still lag. I believe it improved a little bit, but when I drag from 1,2,3,4th gear, the lifting response still can be seen. For example, 1st gear WOT, the car went BEM.......6.5krpm,declutch,lift gas pedal,RPM suddenly jumped to 6.8krpm whilst I'm engaging 2nd gear.

Magician got a theory, but wasn't able to prove it. However, I'd like to share it here for speculation. The reason for my VS not fully functional despite its been running in my car for 3 months, its because our alternator voltage was not static. Before the medium/large capacitor being fully charged, aircon kicks in & draw power off from the small caps. Everytime we off engine, voltage drops back to 12V, and that is not running the VS afterall. Do remember we found out those capacitors was 16V. In order to have optimal charging, it needs 16V, so 14V charging could take much-much more longer time to "run in" the capacitors, may be years. So, we guess it could be the case that when the capacitors are fully charged, the driver already got used to it and forgotten the goodness of having VS assistance. We believe erictioh couldn't use anything lower than 16V otherwise the VS reliability will become questionable.

Lastly, we conclude that everytime we disconnect the VS, it needed another full run in before we can feel the effect of a fully functional voltage stabilizer.

can i say we charge the VS by starting the battery, but not the engine? i mean 1st click of the key, but not ignition.

and i'm very curious sg9999's vs is from which seller or brand?

sarawak where?

To be honest, i really thought before to buy those audio used cap and used as VS. That one is way better than i DIY a large capacitor bank. The reason why i still yet to DIY is becos i can't find a proper way to accomodate the capacitor bank.

Anyway, those grouding cable is just noticeable for old car, as the old cable conductivity is reduce and fatigue, for new car the effect might negligible. If you reach enough, change all the cables to huge ass welding cable will see the effect.

Thanks for the info. I have little knowledge in electronic engineering
I do not disagree with you as I have no prove to all that. The only thing I know is, this morning the engine response was not there despite its in my engine bay for 3 months. It happened AFTER the VS being charged for 2 hours with the battery itself. It could be the battery, not the VS. But so far I'm amazed and surprised by the performance I have, despite its incomparable with the f***er who poisoned me. Anyway, I see some lights now and will move forward. I'll be taking out the possibility of getting the RM860 VS. I'll move forward with a sound grounding kit and the huge ass welding cable as soon as I hold some solid info

Btw, thanks for spend time educating me. Learnt alot from your post. May be I should go and buy a 250V 1.5Farad cap and plonk it inside my boot

for u it might be just marketing gimmick, but i did consulted my DIY fren for my VS, he told me few stuff about that uF thing. so believe it or not, uF seriously will affect a VS's performance, let it be very high or very low. what we require is a balanced and optimized uF.

sg999
seriously speaking, the +ve technically is an upgrade as well? im quite curious with the GC ur friend produced. the 5 cables are evetually having the diameter, but after the connector, the single cable attached to the -ve seems to have the same diameter like the other 5...isnt that not relevant enough? it is like a 5 lane highway merging into a single lane lorong...the discharge might be reduced, no?

Getting my armrest for tomorrow, so happy

On a side note, am thinking of getting a pair of foglamp for Bebop. To anyone who added foglamps, where to put the switch for foglamp?

for GC, the photo is exactly having the same concept like the 1 u show me. 5 to a connector, then 1 to the -ve terminal. 5-1...

by right, not good. 5 lane merge to 1 lane.

i prefer plain black leather lor... kinda hate the red lining...

GC cable not nessasary need large diameter. Why nowadays all is called "multi-point grouding cable'?

Those GC cable main purpose is not carry high cuurent only, it actually connect the particular point and make it "fully grouded', AKA 0v. Ori car normally just have 1 or 2 grouding points from battery terminal to car body at the engine bay. Means our car body is actually in ground potential (0v) from +ve point of view. But does it really @ ground for whole chassis if the grouding point is at, let say th front of engine bay? The answer is NO.

Car body is constructed from joining all the panel. So from panel to panel, all are connected by bolt, and panel is not a perfect conductor. So when we connect, let say audio amp, normally shop will connect negative terminal to car body at cabin. However car body @ cabin is not nessasary equal to 0v, due to panel to panel resistance and resstance of the pnel itself. So when current flow from battery +ve to amp and loop back to battery -ve through car body, voltage drop exist across the panel, let say 1 volt voltage drop across the panel, means now from the point of view of amp +ve terminal refer to amp -ve terminal, the effective voltage across the amp is just 11v, as 1v is drop by panel, result? amp is not running at optimum level, therefore performance will drop. Imagine if all the electrical devices in car such as spark plug, lamp etc also use this kind of connection, what will happen is the performance will reduce.

Therefore this is where the GC play its role. By connect all those GC from battery -ve terminal directly to multi points such as engine block, firewall etc, is to make that point directly grounded same as battery -ve to ensure the ground current can loop back to -ve as short as possible, so that voltage drop across ground loop is eliminate and ensure electrical devices to run @ max performance.

So even our stock ground cable is huge ass cable also useless if the grouding point is just at one particular point.

In simple word, the correct way to connect in car electrical device is connect -ve to battery -ve directly by wire rather than connect to car body, this is what assesories shop refuse to do due to extra cable cost, let say if ur amp is located @ boot.

so from ur point of view, thickness if cable is negligible? the conductive level too? say some use copper, some say platinum coated, so gold plated and whatsoever, some say china steel, or cap ayam metal...consider ok la? janji it is pointing towards the -ve terminal? no matter is 5 - 1 - -ve or 5 - -ve? janji ada connected is ok jor?

; ;

I din say GC will not improve perfomance.

Just that i feel ur concept of GC is incorrect. especially you said stock grouding cable is thin.

The main point i would like to stress is "multi-point", not thickness. If just about thickness, wouldn't just connect 5 cables paralel to the ori cable will do?

sg999
seriously speaking, the +ve technically is an upgrade as well? im quite curious with the GC ur friend produced. the 5 cables are evetually having the diameter, but after the connector, the single cable attached to the -ve seems to have the same diameter like the other 5...isnt that not relevant enough? it is like a 5 lane highway merging into a single lane lorong...the discharge might be reduced, no?

ayam sadding..no one answer mah noob quesen.

I don't know I reach magician in the morning, as I told him about sg999 case, he started to explain the VS thingy, then suddenly the "training" program struck my mind. Therefore we train the VS and the result lasted until just now I got home

Anyway, if tomolo it become lag again, then my theory of training wouldn't work liao

LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL !