Honda engine must use Honda oil.

I said the shop sell spring buffer RM13 tipu, didn't say the tayar shop I dunno the tayar shop tipu or not.

The rim looks good, the thing is the tayar came together is 55 series. If the rim offset dalam with 55 tayar, you wouldn't get sagat, but kena wheel arch when full toe(full turn). However, if your rim offset luar with 55 tayar, you kena sangkut makat. If you so happen use offset ngam² fender(FLX SE mia rim) with 55 tayar, you wouldn't kena wheel arch, you wouldnt' kena makat, but kena fender kaber.

Ini GaGA pakcik mia offset dalam, hodoh giler. Lagi steering berat macam kampang. Tapi lower arm + bushing + steering link semua tahan lasak sebab kurang sporting


Ini ke20 mia offset luar, nampak gagah. Steering ringan(kalau banding ngan sama size tayar offset dalam). Tapi lower arm + bushing + steering link semua cipat rosak.


So, regardless, 15inch tayar kalau gabung ngan 55 series tayar untuk GaGa kitaoang, sure kena something in the end...

UNLESS
1) tukar spring keras
2) tukar esoba keras
3) tambah spring buffer
4) tambah spring bush tebal

Last, kalau pakei 55series mia tayar, sure lagi kuat minum. Wa nampak hang mia fuelly sudah giler barbie, macam pakei F1, nanti kasi masok 15" 55 tayar konpirm tiap² ari full tank

Attn Pak Z1, finally found another FC king that can match you. FL 4AT also.

Used sensatrac once with Iswaga, pretty comfy. Sporty ride and handling??? Neh..... So so nia. Sold off 2nd hen at cost price after 1 week. Then change to GAP standard gas abs slightly bouncy if drive alone. With passenger no different, like stock handling improve, but going over speed bump is pain in the butt

You think I'm kidding you I use VTEC oil ar

Eih! you guys watch this video anot ar! God bad words geh, so watch with your own discretion. Dun say I didn't warn you.

This guy



Mineral oil

I personally believe engine oil did very little effect to FC, partly because the engine compartment friction is so great that minor viscosity different is negligible after all. Unless your engine already posses these problems:

1) Loosen valve seat - engine oil leak into combustion chamber from engine head, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
2) Loosen pistong ring - engine oil being channeled into combustion chamber from crankshaft, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
3) PCV breather blocked - excess engine oil being stored on rocker head will leak into intake vale, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning
4) PCV breather valve loosen - unable to block engine oil from staying on rocker head, excess engine oil being suck by intake manifold, that mixed up with A/F result in bad burning.

If your car's performance affected by engine oil, you need to get your car fixed because your car may be suffering from 1 of the above. I've been driving for many years, many kinds of cheap/expansive/racing grade/taxi grade engine oil I've used. The significant of an engine oil existed when you're in these conditions:
a) During engine cold, whether the oil has been freezed. Whether its sticky enough to stick on the metal surface to prevent your engine part from hard friction.
b) When you're driving in the afternoon + high heat. If you go 9000rpm, is your engine oil capable to sustain such heat without boiling. The hotter it gets, the watery it goes.
So, what kind of temperature you're driving on? Too cold? Or too hot?

There's also myth in the market saying some highly precised molecule engine oil can provide extreme lubrication that smoothen engine movement, the reduced friction will result in restore power output and increase fuel efficiency. I have absolutely no proof to say that's wrong. But then, what was the working temperature again? -20w50? You want high heat resistance, its going to freeze earlier. You want low freeze molecule, it wouldn't stand high heat. Simple as that.

Here's a video regarding independent engine oil test:


Basically, if my opinion was the difference of engine output is totally negligible. If you read it correctly, the 1st test of Mobil 1 was the most weak engine oil, but I guess many of us also realize as the engine run hotter the performance started to increase. If the shop owner willing to do the whole test again with the reverse sequence of the engine oil, started with Nulon, then Purple follow by Motul, Castrol and finally end it with Mobil, I would take a safe bet the Mobil is going to generate 180kw instead of the Nulon.

I personal preference was this:

Too bad, I couldn't find this type of oil in Malaysia anymore. Reason for selecting this is because it's very affordable, and placebo effect pretty good. It used to be NASCAR official engine oil, so I felt the car more powerful after knowing that I'm sure it has nothing to do with the actual performance, it just I felt better You may still find some detail here

If the car already have problem, such as loosen piston ring, this is my preference:

Affordable price, very hard to burn. If your car is a white smoker, this is just the thing you looking for before you get to repair your engine.

LOVE MY GAGA BLM

Was hiding under the tree, having good time


I'm so proud with my height Mirror mirror on the wall, who is the tallest among them all




Mirror mirror on the wall, whose the.... aih nevermind lar


Seen this pretty thing on the road, but was taking care of my FC, so didn't managed to go infront and say hi

Ofcourse it is Taller than libina, taller than most car

Got this from a FB friend

En.Iska,

Bat3 maintenance phree basah tiada beza nagn bat3 biasa. Ia digolongkan dalam kategori mentenen phree sebab papan nikel dalam bat3 boley lasak walaupon kurang air(bukan tanpa air). Waranti sehingga 15 bulan sebab R&D tunjuk bat3 demikian akan menjadi lemah akibat air suling dalam bat3 semakin kurang. Jadi, mentenen phree mia bat3 basah mmg dibuat untuk tahan setahun suku aje.

Lay man like us, especially more kiam siap knowing how to save money, peel off the sticker, open the cap & refill distill water to further extend bat3 life. So, as long as bat3 water level doesn't go lesap drastically, it may still survive for a very long period. Reason behind the wet maintenance free bat3 was bcoz the bat3 water inside will not boil easily, whereas normal bat3 can see a breather hole above the bat3 cap. So, ofcoz la normal wet bat3 the water level faster vaporized than maintenance free.

I check bat3 water once a month during service/oil change. My Gabby use normal wet bat3. GaGa use dry maintenance free bat3, so there's nothing for me to check.

Let me drift away your question abit. A Honda NSX was made with alumminium body. It can easily lasted 30 years. But then the company still offer only 1 year warranty back in the mid 90s.

Warranty is a confident level a company can promise on their product. The actual lifespan can sometimes far exceed its expiry date. "BEST MOTORING" once tested Honda Integra DC2, EK9, NSX at the age of 5. Believe it or not, their after 100k mileaged engine performance surpass factory rating!

Those were the old Hondas I'm talking about. Let's hope this applicable to GaGa' powah windoe

Rare breed. If 1.5I 4G15P, dai dai no powar. If 2.0 4G63, dunno Tun M trash where ady. Also heard got 1.6 turbo 4G61T, but I haven't seen 1 before. Reminds me a customer demand my ex-magician to plonk in EBO2 engine 4G63T, the car broke into half during test drive Faster welding balik & sold off

Plotong make it boley, then our magician make the boley even more boley

Correct. 160bhp. But can't mod, weak piston. Good thing about old Plotong is, the whole engine bay tapak sama ngan semua Mitshi model lama I've seen Satra masuk V6, tapi pakei balik gear bok 1.6, sampai 5th gear masih lagi wheelspin

Kalau GaGa... Tapaknya boley muat waja campro, Gen2, persona, exora, satria neo... Dan... Dan... Tu saje lah eh... Kan sama aje

No wor. I want got LCD display geh, dun wan blutoot

Use iPet then

Best VS, erictioh. Never try, never know. Berkesan & affordable

YAB is surname. Was going for YAP, but the sohigh JPN registra listened as YAB, so... Yang amat bodoh terjadi

Just like erictioh. Some is Teo, some is Teoh. This 1 Tioh

Try google "torque pro obd"

penetration in the rain

I rike

Had a lunch chat with my colleague, his Persoga is doing phenomenon 6.7litre/100km or 14.9km/litre. Had a wonderful conversation & understand a little bit more on how driving habit significantly affect FC.

1) Changing petrol every tank. He uses 1 tank BhP, follow by another tank of any other brand. His preference is BhP, but the next tank he will choose some other petrol. He doesn't know why, but if he uses BhP continuously, he can only achive between 13-14km/l. I took a wild guess, to confuse the ECU, do not let it adapt to similar firing sequence/ignition timing. 1 tank 14km/l, another tank 16km/l. Everytime RM38/20litre. Sometimes 320km lite up, sometimes 280 lite up.

2) Never fill up full tank. He doesn't know why, he guessed if full tank the car carry more weight, result in bad FC. I was query on the reliability since its not full tank, but he denied saying consistently doing between 280-320km. If not reliable, there will be often seeing 1 time fuel up drop below 280km, coz petrol being over utilized by previous tank. So, I think the arguement is legit.

3) At red lights, N gear. When turn green, engage D, release brake, let the car roll before step on gas pedal. Maintain gentle pedal work, let 4AT gradually upshift around 2krpm.

4) Empty boot. Clean air filter. Minimal electrical usage besides of aircon+radio. Clean interior as well. He said sand & dust also got weight. He only weighted 45kg

So, I guess its about time to lose weight. I hope this benefit some 4AT poor soul. The pesoga is standard M line 2010 model. Gradually travel between cheras - jalan ipoh - selayang. Mixture of IRR and city traffic. Just these few tips I got from him