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 Proton PrevĂ© V16, I'm proven. Et vous?

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sanadi
post Dec 14 2012, 07:06 AM

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QUOTE(benzourry @ Dec 14 2012, 01:02 AM)
From my experience with vios previously, yes, no doubt it is a good car...it is practical, u drive it just like u drive a car...decent performance, decent service cost.. The handling is just like a car, will turn left if u pull the steering left.. So, to say, it is a complete product as a car.

However, few myth of vios that you have to know:
1) Vios guarantee noo problem.
- False. From signal bulb to drive-shaft, will probably face problem over time.. my right rear lamp burn for few times. Find out it is caused by water that got inside. Open the boot floor just to find out i've got nice aquarium inside. Power window clipping oso sometimes detached from the glass (happen to me after do re-tinted). Drive-shalf, after 5 years (or maybe less) will got issue. Few month before change to preve, mine already got kruk, kruk sound. Original vios drive-shalf is quite expesive over thousand ringgit, end up change it to china-made which cost rm170 only. Another small but annoying issue is the belting.. This happen in most vios. After few years will make sound. Change the belting, the sound back after few month. Retighten, then few weeks the sound is back..
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This is what I don't get. I see this happen at idle on Honda Accords, BMW 3 Series and MB E-Class. After some time they seem to squeak at idle. Get moving however they are inaudible. I'm curious why this happens?

This post has been edited by sanadi: Dec 14 2012, 07:06 AM
sanadi
post Dec 14 2012, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(benzourry @ Dec 14 2012, 08:31 AM)
Last time my friend suggest me to change everything..including the pulley...end up i change the whole car.  laugh.gif
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I see this happens in too many cars on too many brands, especially those cars that are close to 10 years old. Is it our weather? Maybe rubber is not good enough?
sanadi
post Dec 14 2012, 06:20 PM

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QUOTE(gokarton @ Dec 14 2012, 04:24 PM)
my friend who work at proton says the hatchback preve will out on oct 2013. i believe him.. but preve sedan is my preference :-)
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Almost 1 year away. Better that they test it fully & properly before launching the car.
sanadi
post Dec 19 2012, 03:52 PM

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QUOTE(Mowgly @ Dec 19 2012, 03:19 PM)
Just got a call from Proton dealership that i ordered my preve from. Ordered 2 weeks ago, said if loan approved, can come within 4-5 days. Loan approved on 4th day, so expected arrival the next week only. Whole week past, no update or news on when the car will be available. only just now i got a call from the salesperson, red colour preve will only be produced next year, so expected arrival of the car will be 3rd week of Jan 2013. WTF.
i is sad.  cry.gif
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Do you *really* need the car right now? If not, you should wait.

1. Red Preve is *extremely* rare (at this moment). You car would be special.
2. You would get a car manufactured in 2013 and registered in 2013 (as opposed to 2012 car, or 2012 car registered in 2013).
sanadi
post Dec 26 2012, 05:46 PM

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QUOTE(Manlet @ Dec 26 2012, 05:45 PM)
Not fmhl... i go in car park finding place the lamp auto on... havent even stop the car
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You mean the engine was running? It's like, COME STEAL ME!!!
sanadi
post Dec 26 2012, 09:44 PM

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QUOTE(swk_sam @ Dec 26 2012, 09:16 PM)
Almera is more quiet compare to Preve. I heard Preve fc getting alot better when ur car hit 10k km drive. Is it true?
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Better, but no way is Preve going to challenge Almera, FC wise. It is a heavy car after all. For comparison, Preve CFE is 1340kg, Inspira 2.0P is 1350kg and Almera VL is 1045kg. But for long distance, Preve is AWESOME.
sanadi
post Dec 27 2012, 04:23 PM

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QUOTE(rognales @ Dec 27 2012, 04:20 PM)
do you guise polish/wax/coat your new preve?
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Nope, too lazy. That's why I chose elegant brown. Same colour as dust icon_idea.gif
sanadi
post Dec 28 2012, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(deity01 @ Dec 28 2012, 03:18 PM)
anyone would like to recommend any performance tyre where it is as good as GT Bax 2 but with lower noise level?
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Two tyres are usually recommended:

1. Michelin Enery XM2
2. Yokohama C.Drive 2

Yesterday when I did my alignment I enquired about those tyres (205/55 R16)

1. XM2: RM420/tyre
2. C.Drive 2: RM360/tyre
sanadi
post Dec 29 2012, 11:10 AM

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QUOTE(Gigabit @ Dec 29 2012, 09:57 AM)
I notice that the end of the oil engine dip stick is slightly twisted... mad.gif Not sure how, anyway i knock it back using a small hammer. Of course it will not be fully straight. (not gonna bother complaining too because it is just a oil engine dip stick and not broken...if broken sure claim for replacement)

Just to reinforce the point made by tineagle, wish the service staff handle the car better.
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That is normal. Mine is the same since new. I know as I do a check under the hood every week since new.

This post has been edited by sanadi: Dec 29 2012, 11:30 AM
sanadi
post Dec 29 2012, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(Gigabit @ Dec 29 2012, 11:52 AM)
Ok...thanks..but i thought the dip stick should be straight?
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Toyota has the twist in the middle of the dipstick. Honda has the twist at the top (near the handle). I don't know why they do that.
sanadi
post Jan 1 2013, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(Manlet @ Jan 1 2013, 09:08 PM)
i also got prob with braking i tot its normal...  car jerking when apply slight brake and not sure if gearbox or engine sound got 'wuuwuuwuuwuu' sound
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I'm quite sure that is the sound of the CVT or the turbo. That's normal.

About the brakes, does your brake pedal pulsate? If not I think it is merely the new pads rubbing the new disc, i.e new parts. They will go away the more you drive. Preferably city drive as you use the brakes more.
sanadi
post Jan 1 2013, 09:18 PM

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This is normal sound in the preve:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XqSdCxqMziM

sanadi
post Jan 3 2013, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(engtat @ Jan 3 2013, 06:19 PM)
Brown.

I tried a few straight roads along KESAS, it is obvious  yawn.gif
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Just out of the showroom?

First check all 4 tyre pressure. Sometimes it is set too high or not balanced. Then drive a few days, if still out of alignment, bring to SC to do alignment. Personally I prefer outside tyre shop.
sanadi
post Jan 3 2013, 10:15 PM

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When car is locked, first pull unlocks the door. Second pull opens the door. Appliies to all doors

This post has been edited by sanadi: Jan 3 2013, 10:16 PM
sanadi
post Jan 4 2013, 09:12 AM

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Sorry wrong thread tongue.gif

This post has been edited by sanadi: Jan 4 2013, 09:12 AM
sanadi
post Jan 4 2013, 09:20 AM

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QUOTE(chinonet @ Jan 4 2013, 09:16 AM)
finally i had my peace of mind after sending my car to EON SC Jln 227 to rectify the brake problem i've been having on my 3 weeks old preve
a bit unfortunate that i received my car with a warped disc  vmad.gif
the mechanic tested my car and they were shocked with the hard vibration felt on the brakes (imagine the feel when u take 2 rocks and rub it)  blink.gif
i had both the disc and pad replaced and now the car feel superb.
i also noticed that they had reflashed the ECU (as stated in their checklist) and the car performance seems different now  rclxm9.gif

the only prob that i had right now is the mis-alligned front left passenger door  shakehead.gif
the mechanic had booked a slot for me to have it done with their body & paint dept, as they need to completely remove the door and re-allign it back
so far i'm happy with the EON SC service, they are cooperative and willing to diagnose the prob together

other probs, just minor2. i had twice having the over crank symptom during my first few days with the car, which i guess because i start the car too fast (using the 3 step sequence). i later adjusted to press the start button twice, wait for the start button indicator on the meter to light, then i press start. never had the overcrank sound ever since (i hope  sweat.gif )

the other is the stop button indicator popping out after starting the car, this is still a mystery which i plan to get advise from the SC. but i would usually stop the car and start back after seeing the indicator, as my car performance would feel a bit sluggish when the indicator is still on

after the ecu reflash, i had the dashboard vibration symptom and some annoying rattling sound. i had removed some items from my glove box but the sound is still there. i finally detected that the culprit is my key chain. i had temporarily placed a small piece of felt material to act as buffer. so far no more sound. i plan to insulate my glove box, the compartment below the ignition button and maybe some below the HU area with felt material. at least i won't have some funny2 sound when i placed my items in these compartment

later will update my standard gaban ride pic in prevoc..  blush.gif
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Yeah noises in the car. I had this noise like wire hitting the body in the boot. I checked everywhere for a week to find the source. Then found out the noise came from the jumper cable I put in the spare wheel well. Sheesh rclxub.gif
sanadi
post Jan 4 2013, 03:41 PM

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QUOTE(lightmantan @ Jan 4 2013, 03:38 PM)
Does proton preve comes with jumper cable?
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Nope, unless you get free from your SA. I'm using one I got free gift buying Castrol oil, in 2005 I think.
sanadi
post Jan 8 2013, 06:53 PM

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Went to Puchong SC today. Did the power window and air bag harness bulletin. I told them NOT to reflash my ECU/TCU.

But they did it anyway, ....sigh.

Observations:

* clutch locks up much faster, less slippage thus more responsive off the line.
* in D: Light throttle it behaves like D pre-flash. Moderate to full throttle it behave like S mode pre-flash
* Once in high rev mode, when you maintain speed, it takes longer for the rev to come down i.e. like it is still in S mode before going back to D mode. Pre flash, when you release the throttle the RPM quickly resumes 2000rpm, not anymore
* Turbo blow off much more audible. I think it builds boost quicker. I'm not sure whether the boost is higher. I also observed that the fan runs much longer after you shut off the engine compared to before. I think this is due to the engine running in boost longer.

Conclusion:

Pro:
* Much better responsiveness of the throttle
* Much better acceleration, both off the line and in-gear (such as 60-100)

Cons:
* Noisier engine (it tends to live in higher rpm longer)
* FC is worse, much worse in my case. Previously it was easier to drive economically. Now I have to be more attentive to the throttle.

I believe that with this new ECU/TCU you can get better city FC as there is less clutch slippage. But you need to be careful with the throttle.

That is my experience 6 hours after reflash. Give a few days I might be able to get better FC.

This post has been edited by sanadi: Jan 8 2013, 06:54 PM
sanadi
post Jan 8 2013, 08:32 PM

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QUOTE(maverickng @ Jan 8 2013, 07:32 PM)
after that..ur fc will never at 8.8l/100km anymore brows.gif

will go service for 15k tomoro afternoon,will told them not to reflash ecu...hope they wouldt reflash it sweat.gif
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Yeah, quite sad. I hope I can at least maintain my current FC. Gimme a few days to acclimatise. Then we'll see if I can work some *magic* brows.gif
sanadi
post Jan 9 2013, 09:11 AM

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FC Update:
23 km home to office, 8.2 L/100km. Hmm that's surprisingly good.

Observations:
Too much turbo blow off sound. Even below 2000RPM, such as 60 - 70 kph. Every time the car infront slow and accelerate a bit, you have to release and press the accelerator quite often. Every time you release the accelerator you hear the blow off sound. That means there was boost, even at slow speeds.

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