The Max. Pressure -10% theory.

Every tyre has a maximum inflation pressure stamped on the side somewhere. This is the maximum pressure the tyre can safely achieve under load. It is not the pressure you should inflate them to.
Having said this, I've given up using the door pillar sticker as my starting point and instead use the max.pressure-10% theory. According to the wags on many internet forums you can get the best performance by inflating them to 10% less than their recommended maximum pressure (the tyres, not the wags - they already haves inflated egos). It's a vague rule of thumb, and given that every car is different in weight and handling, it's a bit of a sledgehammer approach. But from my experience it does seem to provide a better starting point for adjusting tyre pressures. So to go back to my Subaru Impreza example, the maximum pressure on my Yokohama tyres was 44psi. 10% of that is 4.4, so 44-4.4=39.6psi which is about where I ended up. On my Element, the maximum pressure is 40psi so the 10% rule started me out at 36psi. I added one more to see what happened and it got better. Going up to 38psi and it definitely went off the boil, so for my vehicle and my driving style, 37psi on the Element was the sweet spot.

Read more: http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible_pg3.ht...3#ixzz2BZI2VXBg

So fast v34 

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Added on November 8, 2012, 3:28 amPlanning to go for 20k service + brake knocking issue + headlamps leaking 

COE walk in start what time? 

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Added on November 8, 2012, 3:38 amSaw a few posts regarding ABS, I remembered my emergency brake + evasive maneuver event 

I was in the right lane driving <60km/h and a taxi in front of me gave a last minute signal to turn right and then brake to make a right turn. I immediately gave the full force of my right lake to the brake pedal and swerved to the left to avoid hitting the taxi. 

Just when I avoided the taxi and I'm now on the left lane, another car in front of me with no signal, brake to make a left turn    With my foot still pressing brake, I made another swerve to the right.

So basically:
1) Emergency Brake
2) Swerve Left + Emergency Brake
3) Swerve Right


The whole sequence was < 3 seconds

What a day. My friend on the passenger seat was like WTFuuuuuuuu!&#%%!##! 

I believe the one I kena was this one

Fixed AES E2 PLUS Before Exit Kajang from Bangi Zone B

wadafaq... good news is driver survived... lols...

u want insuflex ? i thinking of open another bulk cause got other member want...

mahihi no reply me...     

A friend, also a Saga FL owner, installed autolock to his car while still under warranty. And this autolock is not the OEM one, this is the cheaper one. So he asks me if his car can still get service at SC and free labour charge?

Would the autolock void the warranty?

New car bob, imporsibur to have any significant performance difference. I'm using the VS.

1) Throttle response and any other performance related myth, are bull crap. My vacuum gauge said so.
2) Headlights dim when aircon kicks in, I don't know whether placebo, but somehow the kick back seems reduced, and light dimmer reduced.
3) Subwoofer distortion was significantly reduced after installation, in fact its a total elimination!!!! I no longer hearing "prak prak" sound when wiper's on

Anyway, I didn't buy the bloody erictioh ground cable by any chance. A 3 year old knows ground cable is meant for car that almost wrecking off a part. So I bought a cheapskate HKS ground cable(thanks to SiuYi initiative), hook it up and found there's nothing happen to the BLM at all. So, you want me to believe because the cable too cheap, therefore no significant improvement? Sorry it doesn't work that way. A car needed a ground cable because the grounding does not channel back to the battery, and as long as there is any conducting material connect between the back of the car, cabin of the car and back to engine back, your car is as good as new. So, it doesn't really matter how expansive your cable, as long as there's enough thickness to pass back the (-) negative grounding back to battery, that's the effect of grounding cable.



So now the HKS grounding cable went to Gabby instead

I think they should spread this picture in FnF. Tell them "Rolled three times door still can open, Proton 1-star NCAP your mother."

200% total lost.

I guess should be total lost.
Unless he buy Kurnia, because they can fix this Inspila with RM12k:

Then your senior case wet wet water la   

If you're talking about DbW lag, it does not help at all. Depends you wanna believe it. Most of the mods people "claim" to have effect, are placebo. When you drop by KL, I let you try my Gabby, see whether you experience any lag or not Basically my Gabby doesn't have VS at all, but DbW almost instant! Throttle response none lag at all. On the other hand, even my BLM with erictioh VS, the DbW lag still remains the same, just like any other BLM/BLM SE/FL/FL SE/FLX/FLX SE. To overcum DbW lag, you'll need this:



Further detail, please PM salesman/worker kenjilew and or contact tauke/facilitator v12kompressor. Don't tell anyone I told you this

hahaha.. i feel u bro!
I got an iswara 2002 as welll...
now booking ady for saga flx..

but stll dilemma dunno what colur to choose...
either gold brown or blue.. 

Your shop install how much the OEM abl? Seksyen 15 Shah Alam quoted me RM90 for OEM abl. Mau simpan duit~~~

LC2K for seb petrol mia wor Lu mau pickup response ka? Or seb petrol? I'm conpius now

I only been to Terengganu twice in my life, but the road is damn empty and smooth surface lor! I've seen big rims, low profile tyres running everywhere

anyone know how long it will take after booking? and let say now is nov n dec, if i book now and get car on jan 13.. the vehicle registration card will record the Year Make in 2012 or 2013?

Below 400km & above 300km is very normal, especially when you say city drive, that is consider very good fuel efficiency liao . However, if you're talking about haiwei drib also unable to hit 400km, either you go refill petrol before warning indicator up? Or you did not fill up the brim . If you do a quick run from JB to Ipoh, that will be ngam² 500km 1 tank petrol with none stop 90km cruising.

Try 1 in KL, like myself every day going in and out of town, provided all my routes are super heavy traffic, some route I need to take during super peak hours I have trouble to struggle for 300km a tank
Normally a week or 2. Your registration card will always use the year make according to factory "birth cert" instead of registration date. When you see people advertise on used car saying 2010/2012, meaning the car was made on 2010, but registered 2012. It could be imported car, prior 2012 was registered in other country, and recently imported to local and registered locally. If you go Plotong buy a Sabby now, you'll also get a NEW Plotong Sabby with 5 years warranty, but registration card will be year make 2010, registration date 2012

Generally if you wanna sell your car to used car dealer, if you car make date is 2011/December, it will worth atleast RM2k less than 2012/January. But then, when you buy a year end car, you get so much of discount and free gift, and you get nothing on January car, probably after booking/downpayment you'll have to wait for a month before you get to collect the car It's a give and take situation lar. You don't try to ask me what would I do, because I figured all this out so in the end I decided I will not buy new car