for 40l of tank, effective tank is 37l. Same goes as other prtns. Minus 3l. Bye.

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Added on October 16, 2012, 6:14 amand its a bottom-fill design with one way shutoff valve to prevent fuel spills in case off vehicle rollovers

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Added on October 16, 2012, 7:14 amby the way, congats dares for the new ride. Any car, if u choose space n luggage capacity, then sedan form wolud suit u, but if u prefer dynamic, hatch design is better coz generally, even for same car like fiesta hatch versus fiesta sedan, hatch has better structural bending n torsional rigidity due to its design, thus contribute to its handling attributes.

Good upgrades dares. Test drive hatch n sedan fiesta, then u get what i mean.

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 16 2012, 07:14 AM

overall, yes, but not much since use of htss only, not combination of uhtss but if talking about reinforcement, the same rigidity. 1st original saga blm has the same fine tuning as savvy, but savvy did feel better in roadholding department, thats why in new flx, some changes has being made on suspension setup, but at the compromise of a bit on ride.

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Added on October 16, 2012, 9:09 amand yes, additional boot add some weight did contribute to lesser dynamic. And a point, since boot has crumple zone, so, dont use htss, then when talking on overal, the whole body in white chasis, of course diff rigidity, same as convertable versus non convertable for the same model. Hope u understand what i mean.'

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 16 2012, 09:09 AM

just sharing a bit of little knowledge, chasis of the car using many materials, so, overall rigidity, involve on all materials used. Materials used also using diff method such cold forming, rolling n hot forming. for low carbon, hsla@high strength low alloy, trip@transformed induced plasticity(uhtss),dp@dualphase(uhtss) using cold forming method, for cp@complex phase n ms@martensitic using rolling method n boron steel using hot press forming method.

For saga, of course u can discard the boron steel n uhtss, but for the replacement, original plans to optimise new hpf machine which used to produced preve which new and 1st in asean, quite new in asia(normally high end n sport model used it), but common for most contis(even low end model). The hpf machine is quite expensive, so, they need to fully utilise it for future model. If not, it will be wasted.

Ha, by the way, cant remember the exact figure, but not much diff with polo hatch since both are class leader n favourite for other automakers as benchmark models, same as focus n golf hatch:-).

the fc is tested at speed 90kmh. Even same engine, preve iafm cvt rev around 1.8k rpm +- at 90kmh, while saga flx se shud be around 2.1k+-. Preve iafm cvt rev 2k rpm+ achieving speed 100kmh, while flx se around 2.3k rpm+ at the same speed due to lower constant ratio.

Scndly, the aero dynamic playing parts when speed more than 80kmh, preve being 0.30 cd, while saga if i still remember around 0.35 cd.

Why flx dont use same fd as preve. Herm, firstly, flx using standard cr supply by punch as perstated in v2 trans, so,ready on shelf n it suit flx pretty well,but preve, by demand a bit of changes, hence, increase a bit of cost coz prtn rnd had been playing with the ratios during testing n development,later absorb in the car cost. Since preve is heavy, using same cr causing the fc will be higher on highways than flx. town driving,more or less the same cause that is advantage of infinite gearing.

But in real world, its not much different in fc. But for spiritual driving, flx se has advantages over preve iafm even at high speed due to lighter weight n higher ratio in cr.

While flx se rarely need to use L mode for spiritual driving, but for preve, u need to use s mode to help it by taking advantage of high ratio/low gear.

After 140kmh, preve iafm+ will start to loose its puff, while flx se, only upon reaching 160kmh, it become slower to reach higher speed.

So, preve iafm+ cvt is meant to be a cruiser, focus on comfortable drive(not handling,but how the engine response), but flx se, more on sportier drive to suit it looks.

From static to move, preve iafm+ already lost 0.5 scnd compare to flx se, but if u really do the timing, flx se can reach sub 11 scnd 0-100kmh n even lower using L mode, but since so many factor can contribute to the timing, so, it humblely stated 12 scnd which achieveble by most people.

Not only timing is doing in controlled manner n environment, but they did it by not letting the the clutch open(closed). Maybe some user can try out.

Dont used footbrake when static, used handbrake instead, dont do any throttling,let trhe rpm rise by itself at 1.1krpm(the cluth is nearly fully closed), let the handbrake go, pedal to metal.
Bye

ah, had another thing to share. Full Cvt vs sat. In crusing below 80kmh whether in hways or town, if u know how to control ur right foot@ being a light footer, it can help improve ur fc. For example, if ur speed is a round 70kmh+- on 5th gear, u can let go the throttle a bit so that it will shift 6th gear n u r cruising around 1.6 to 1.7k rpm+- (can remember exactly)around that speed. while in full cvt, it constantly change the speed accordingly, even u r maintaining 2k rpm. Good things in full cvt, the rpm is maintain, but of course u have pros n cons, while the fuel is spray at contant rate in cvt, but its still spray the same rate even if u r driving at 40kmh for example at 2k rpm before reaching desired speed, while sat, the rpm will drop down, when the gear shifting coz it wont be constant at 2k rpm. If u know how to control ur right foot. If not, better stick to full cvt, easier.

For higher speed cruising, sat dont offer od gear, since its final gear ratio is higher than full cvt od ratio. Thats why full cvt is better when u cruise at speed let say 100kmh on highways. u can check the diff in ratio inside ur manual book, between cvt od minimum ratio n sat 6th gear ratio. Bye.

for wifu,just stick to full cvt, easier. Using sat, u need to control ur right foot, need to learn at which low rpm did it shift to the higher gear for each gear(normally the same each gear). Mind u, 1.3 n 1.6 has diff torque at low speed, using sat really fully used the torque based ecu to calculate how much torque needed. U can feel a bit bog down of power which make u want to push more. When u push more it will shift to lower gear. So, need to be patient. Just take advantage on 6th gear which u could lower the engine rpm, by stepping of gas. when reaching speed around 70@maybe 65kmh if u gentle enough.
For 1.3, remember, if its not generate enough torque, it will downshift@stay at the same gear. Need to learn the pattern for each gear. Then u will get a better result. Note:if u learn the shifting pattern, then u know how much constant pressure to the throttle point need for it to shift gear, but of course from stagnant need to press gently b4 reaching the contant pressure point. This actually applied to any at@even dct economic driving.

As mentioned earlier, for wifu, full cvt easier coz this need practice.

no la,if u just want to squeeze a bit more mileage than ur normal fc. Thats all.If not patience n prudent enough, it can be worse. On highways, d mode is the best unless u want to drive 70kmh all the way :-). For common driver, just use d mode.

By the way, a bit trick to go futher more, during stop n go situation, everytime when depress the foot brake, let the rpm raise by itself to 1.1k rpm(the will roll@move by itself), then apply throttle. Not only it gives better acceleration, but also help a bit on fc coz clutch already fully close, so, not causing revving. This doesnt matter in full cvt@sat, it did help a bit. But dont hope that it will change to hybrid fuel efficiency :-). Ha...ha...

before u go adjusting castor or chamber, i would suggest for u to adjust the toe first. Ask the shop to adjust both toe to zero. I believe they will say cannot, the road is uneven n etc, but insist to do so. And make sure they put the steering retention, n let the steering at straight position. Of course, using correct module software to specific car would help, example, saga blm/fl/flx, not iswara@wira@common car. If they have lah ofcourse.

Read more on toe, then u understand why. Generally, common cars only need a correct toe adjustment, rarely chamber n castor(normally fix).
Normally race prepared car will be adjusted this three components, toe, chamber n castor, according to race track laps n condition. Unless ur car involves in accident or any severe circumtances that needed to adjust chamber n castor coz severely damaged.

Mean no harm,just trying to help.

wow, a respect u. Rarely common driver know about this. No wonder they call u uncle david. Sorry if i offended u by calling u uncle david. Now i understand why this thread really active. U all really enthusiast. Thumb up. If all common car users' like this, less will be con by irresponsible parties.

dont compare me with those contribute much to this forum. I'm nobody n nothing, just a small fries in a burger set, not the main course which is burger. Talking about burger, its already long times not bring my family for outing n feed ourselves with delicious burger. Need to go for burger hunting. Bye guys :-).

that is an honest compliment from me, i really do,never meant to be sacarsm.

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Added on October 21, 2012, 8:18 amif u want technical answer, yup like dares said earlier, email kristoff personally. For general answer from my friends, yup, tcu in cvt has adaptive function. Same as ecu. Thats while they call it tcu adaptation process.

By the way dares, iinm, ur fiesta use duratec engine, n it has siemens 16 bit ecu. Its good actually, but it has its own limitation in calibrations n functions compare to 32bit ecu n its cheaper than 32bit one. But 32bit is common nowadays, so, so 32bit ecu not that high tech as some may perceive. In order to cut a bit of cost, 16 bit ecu is much use by manufacturers today where not much functions of 32 bit are needed.The engine is using belt rite, same as rubbish car :-), or maybe im just wrong on the later part coz people just like to point out belt in campro is outdated compared to advance high tech chain in other makes.
As u know, campro iafm+ is not state of the art engine, so, by using 32 bit ecu did help much in total calibration to give better response n functions.

There are many reasons why prtn resort to cvt,punch cvt to be specific. One of its becoz its using clutch, means less power lost than torque converter cvt hence better pwr delivery, the weight,its light, and since preve using the same engine+tranny combo, using normal at such in persona elegance will cause catastrophy in term of fc n power,if fit in preve which much heavier than flx se. People may hate cvt character, engine sound drone, feel the speed raise slow, no feeling of urgency as normal at, but the longer u run with cvt, the better u understand it, its not really bad as what people perceive, n some may appreciate it more than other tranny. Sorry for merepek in the morning :-).

This post has been edited by mat79: Oct 21 2012, 08:18 AM

ha..ha..dont be confius,read carefully. Thanks yab david to clarify it in easy way to understand. Sorry for my bad on writing, not really good in explaining i think :-).
Ur blm using siemens 16 bit ems 700 which is load base, while siemens 16 bit ems2101 in fiesta is torque based if not mistaken. While flx conti/siemen 32bit easyu ecu torque based.

Prtn try to gauge how much performance of 32bit ecu by using same hardware differ in persona elegance(iafm 4 at combo,previous persona still the same combo but 16bit ecu). Yup, it has differences, but not much to be appreciated by users. But by changing hardware incomplement with new ems, it thus give diff outcome interm of drivebility(performance).

Try to compare with persona elegance and persona 4at, monitor how the gear change and power delivery. if not, blm 4at with flx 1.3 in sat mode. Any donor? :-).

ha..ha..for me, i prefer supercharge than turbo charge. But cfe its diff, a rework engine to accommodate low inertia turbo. On standard engine, not really recommend coz if wrongly set it up, it can blow the heart of ur car. Same as na modification or any modification. Take r3 for example, they can tune cps engine to be more powerful than the current r3 cps, but the objective is to retain original most major parts for warranty validity. So, the increament of hp n torque is on the safe side. If go beyond that, as for reliability concerned, need to strengthen moct major parts. Wrongly tuned modify engine also can cause catastrophy.
Yup, some manage to tune it to be powerful n still running ok, but on general reliability it shud run 100k km without any problem. For iafm engine, r3 does have the recipes for na tuning, since old iafm inherited original campro design n parts, so, almost the same on na tuning. Get a trusty workshop@tuner to change the camshaft, complimentary with air intake n tuned full exhaust system from extractor to end mufler. However, dont expect a big jump in performance though :-), just from 1.3 to 1.6 performance,unless reliability n drivability not ur concern, u can do what ever u want. Hey, the easiest way is to transplant the engine. If no need so powerful, i think cps engine is available in some half cut shop if not mistaken, but u need more power, u have a bundle of japs engines available.

So in the end, its up to you. Im not really interested in modification since growing old nowadays. A simple one that i think will cost less but gives more is to decat@used tuned extractor for campro. Get it from reputable tuner. R3 has it but it cost more. Hotbits design is not far than r3 one, reason why design is similar, u have to search it on ur own :-)...ha...ha...but mind u, u r polluting the environment though.

sorry for late reply, bz a bit, well, actually u already answer the question ur self. The ecu is still learning like brand new engine. Give it more mileage to adapt with original air filter before it can adapt with newer one which i aasume hflow drop in. Atleast run for 1k km b4 change back to h flow. But the new hflow need sometimes to recognise it since it just been reset. Thats why some cars need to run until 10k km, not only due to engine constructions material, but how the engine adapt itself using ecu n tcu(for auto related gbox) before settle down for the best balance between fc n power.
And ofcourse it has has safe mode calibration for protect the engine, if its cannot do it, worse case scenario,engine light will lit up to give u warning. For Open pod still need diff calibration coz default calibration is not suitable for the change in air, so af ratio need to calibrate manually. For drop in, no problemo.
Just wondering, i know some diagnostics tool can reads campro ecu reading, but can they altering it?bcoz its being lock by default, n the code@password only accessable by r3 and prtn pwrtrain dept. Maybe there is some leaks internally :-). Nothing can do now. But of course piggy back can bypass them n by total reflashing.

Not really good in technical details. My friends also in silent mode nowadays :-).