This is typical electronic problem. Plug in the key, step on the brake(do not release until the car starts), turn key to ACC(2 tick from OFF, 1 tick before kick start) wait for few seconds, move gear lever from P to D, from D back to P, then crank start. Few of my company FL got this problem when reverse parking forgot to put back P then off engine

When engine got cranking sound, meaning NOT starter problem. Its probably fuel cut off. I try to imitate the sound, you see whether you hear what I hear:

Wuekekeke vroom = start normally
Wuekekekekekekekekeke = no fuel supply
Wuekekekekekekekkekek.... kekeke(faster).... kekekekek(slower) = petrol over flow
Weeeeeeeeeeeeee = Timing belt putus(engine already gone, so as your wallet)
Tik tak tik tak = Starter relay sound, normally starter KO
Wuek... Bin Bin Bin Bin(car horn alarm) = Bateri weak
...............................(no sound no light no nothing) = Bateri kong, you probably left the headlamp on overnight

You can even start a car without engine oil Keep cranking lar tomorrow, good things will happen. Try not to step on the gas pedal yo. Remember to fiddle with the gear lever. Or you can wait until Plotong iDunCare cum and do the same thing for you geh. As long not timing belt putus, you're safe to crank until the bateri drain

This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 29 2012, 11:56 PM

Starter retraction timing not sync with flywheel will have this sound. Gabby almost koyak starter will have this sound. My Iswaga before change starter also got this sound. The starter main function was to turn the flywheel, therefore the solenoid will push the gear to the flywheel and turn the flywheel. Once started, by right the solenoid will retract the gear head. However, certain condition such as weaken solenoid unable to fully retract/push out will result in KREEEEK sound as and when the car started the very 1st moment. Other condition, I leave other to speculate. Dun wan later lite a fire of Perve owner

Phew!!! Finally finish packing Will send out within this week. Sorry to keep you guys waiting

If off headlights hor, the fog lamp will auto disengage geh korek ar?

Iska,

When u turn key it goes Wuekekekkekekekkekekeke vroom got few scenario

1) Does not happen when engine was cold. It happened when engine hot/after long distance/serius traffic jam, normally injector noozle jammed will have balance fuel dakung in combustian chamber. When trying to ignite, overflowed fuel will wet the spark plug. Normally the cranking freuqncy is fast. This is normal for all cars. However, if getting serius should clean injector. Need to send for high frequency vibration injector cleaning, not buy a can of rubbish fuel additive.

2) Weaken sparkplug can also cause hard crank start. Ignition core distance too far from contact point, as a result less spark created insufficient to ignite air/fuel mixture. Experience mechanics able to calibrate ignition core to most efficient setup.

3) Independant ignition coil problem. The voltage transformer unable to generate enough electricity to the sparkplug. Need to send SC to check/replace. Kenjilew used to have this problem, but suddenly his GaGa self healed.

Last but not least: Face problem. Go for plastic surgery.

This post has been edited by davidke20: Oct 30 2012, 11:28 AM

Iska,

Koreksen on #1, does not happen on cold start. Only happen on hot engine. Sorry for confusion.

And yes, when air filter was dirty will also result in long cranking due to wrong air-fuel mixture. When fuel > air, will result in wet sparkplug also.

Blue Gabby at the background

No



Iska's avatar very the thriller... can see something yellow floating at the back of those hot chicks

Why so late? Payment and order closed on 23rd October liao. Pls press "show post by this user only" to find my previous post, quickly bank in before tomorrow. don't forget to email me the full name, address, mobile number & lyn ID and screenshot of payment detail.I'm on mobile, not convenient to find previous posts for u. I'm currently ordering some loose stock for turtle & dugong gang, so I can tumpang your order in if you're still keen. My order close by tomorrow. Please act fast Other senior, can please help Mr. arr9ow regarding this matter?

By the way dares, my supplier say can get filter for FoFi at around similar price geh, won't hai until can buy semi syn oil The thing is he dun hab stock, so unable to go & beat the competitors lor

Just went EA Autoworks to tighten my rear lower ULAR bar. Much appreciate the free after sales service. Thak you Howie, thank you drexchan

I did not mod exhaust

Add TRD spoiler, convert GaGa BLM to Vios

Anyway, regarding exhaust mod.

Decat(remove catalytic converter)
can release a 0~a few horse power which is not quite noticeable, but the engine response will gain substantial advantage by having better exhaust flow. Anyway, for your information inside the catalytic converter looks like this:

now you have a better idea of why is it blocking exhaust flow, as a result limiting exhaust being expel at full speed, thus combustion cycle slowed down. Meanwhile, removing catalytic converter will release more carbon monoxide and other toxic fume to the atmosphere that contribute to pollution. I'm not being a tree hugger, but I have to be fair to mention both pros and cons for you to justify your action.

Exhaust manifold, difference between 4-2-1 and 4-1
Stock setup is always all cylinder flow into 1 outlet for cost effectiveness and also convenient to join it to the catcon.
According to theory, 4-1 setup will allow better low end speed acceleration due to similar length. However on high speed acceleration, exhaust will bum into each other from different cylinder and causes blockage, as a result top end acceleration is jeopardized. On the other hand 4-2-1 has different length, but each cylinder's exhaust get to expel out at different timing due to unequal length. Theoretically, low end speed jeopardized due to exhaust expelled too quickly, but on high end speed will be better. Some experience modder said otherwise. If you ask me, I'm on 4-2-1, just because you're paying the same amount of money, but you get more besi on the 4-2-1

Anyway, different position of midbox setup will also affect low/top end acceleration. This 1 I leave to other experts to answer. Again I would like to clarify, both my Gabby and GaGa unmod on exhaust system for personal reason

Vios 109ps - BLM 94ps = 15ps up

Perdana Fuelly

Saga FLX Fuelly

For example, you pour RM30 petrol in both car

1) In a GaGa, you've only been driving around 180km then fuel indicator lite up, you start to curse saying the car consume petrol like pouring into the drain

2) In a Perdana, you've drove around slightly less than 100km then fuel indicator lite up. You don't feel anything because, it's a V6.

It's really up to you man. If I take over the V6, I'll plonk a 2.5litre 4cam 24valve twin turbo inside, convert it to full time 4wheel drive then sneeze like a boss. If I sell off the V6 for 25k and get a 2011 FLX CVT used car, I only need to top up bank loan 13k. Monthly installment RM200. Petrol save atleast 30% compare to V6. Roadtax save few hundred. Drive a much newer car compare to an 8 year old car(insurance probably need to pay extra 15% loading out of nothing).

Don't forget V6 meaning got 2 separated engine heads, also remember V6 well known auto gearbox issue, super high fuel consumption. I'm not saying the executive car no good, but lack of maintenance will cause a lot of problem. Last but not least, do you know your mother/father bring the V6 go service that time need to prepare 2 bottle of engine oil If you can afford all that, seriously dude, V6 FTW

fai 7 tit

fai 7 tit

add oil

Was reaching home, found the pretty neighbour parked & still inside the car As a pahlawan darah oktana, I quickly rev up behind her car, did a quick wheel spun reverse L parking masuk parking beside her car... Then...

Ended up TERclimb up the curb due to speed too fast Anyway, I didn't bother to back down the car, just leave it there & quickly run away Later after she go in the house/go out only go and repark the car la