this one? i've heard many good things from them, however they don't accept credit card so it's a pain to deal with them as they aren't cheap also.
-manifold crack shouldn't eat engine oil (unless you mean petrol) again, refer our previous replies, chances are exhaust shops just want to scam the shit out of you for business
- yes they just want your business
- no good to remove cat con.
please check your o2 sensors etc properly and/or bring to proper workshop check/diagnose.
yes it is jianhang sometimes i doubt the cat con is still working because it is 16 years old now nowadays hard to find new/halfcut manifold for my old city what to do with the o2 sensor?
yes it is jianhang sometimes i doubt the cat con is still working because it is 16 years old now nowadays hard to find new/halfcut manifold for my old city what to do with the o2 sensor?
big thanks
use an OBD device and see if there are error codes. perhaps clean the o2 sensor if required (google for methods)
personally i don't see your manifold crack being serious as reasons provided on previous posts.
Hi all sifus, i'm driving a honda city 5.5g now (2012) ...currently mod simota open pod + knn filter , JianHang Downpipe (2-1) , mugen twin loop ... should i go for s flow or straight flow muffler?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 14 2014, 12:57 AM)
Sorry if this has been posted, cai busted.
1.1849 vs 1.2260 rho temperature gradient (24 celsius vs 15) equates to a 3 percent boost based of air density alone in a perfect world where a car is well tuned.
To test for backpressure restriction, I don't think an R34 with a NEO6 is going to push the flow restriction limits of an open pod filter. You'd need something a lot beefier.
1.1849 vs 1.2260 rho temperature gradient (24 celsius vs 15) equates to a 3 percent boost based of air density alone in a perfect world where a car is well tuned.
To test for backpressure restriction, I don't think an R34 with a NEO6 is going to push the flow restriction limits of an open pod filter. You'd need something a lot beefier.
A lot beefier than that rb26 housing meaning I shouldn't be considering cai for my stock kv3e. It's pretty much debatable of how those guys in the video perform the test since there should be more air flow outside in relative to moving speed, more than that industrial grade fan can do, maybe.
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
QUOTE(PedangGila @ Nov 14 2014, 03:47 PM)
A lot beefier than that rb26 housing meaning I shouldn't be considering cai for my stock kv3e. It's pretty much debatable of how those guys in the video perform the test since there should be more air flow outside in relative to moving speed, more than that industrial grade fan can do, maybe.
Naw, that's an RB25DET with a NEO head and a small T25 flange turbo, not an RB26. It won't flow really hard. I still own one of these bastids haha!
Plus my experience from the RB25DET is that without a tunable ECU like an Apexi PowerFC and a decent turbo, it's pretty hard to max out airflow as the stock ceramic turbo is shit.
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recently i can feel car no powarrr and high fc
change to a new extractor or salvage from halfcuts. no point welding the iron as it's thick. When you have leaky extractor, o2 sensor won't get a good reading. results in high FC and low power. It thinks its reading lean, then the ECU will inject in more fuel but the engine in reality is rich.
Naw, that's an RB25DET with a NEO head and a small T25 flange turbo, not an RB26. It won't flow really hard. I still own one of these bastids haha!
Plus my experience from the RB25DET is that without a tunable ECU like an Apexi PowerFC and a decent turbo, it's pretty hard to max out airflow as the stock ceramic turbo is shit.
Speaking of being restricted, have you tried any of that high flow catcon like from hks, magnaflow or such?
wanted to know tat will exhaust setting cause gear(AT) shift earlier? bcos my gear shift weird/early at between rpm 1.5-2.2....n im stepping the pedal as usual.
these is wat done recently Honda City 1998 1.5 AT. replaced full exhaust system due to crack. 4-2-1 + 2 bullet + 1.6 piping +palsu mugen 2 loop (2inch).
then replace gbox seals. n move to penzoil atf from honda atf(costly)
This post has been edited by Bob-Marley: Jan 3 2015, 06:10 PM
wanted to know tat will exhaust setting cause gear(AT) shift earlier? bcos my gear shift weird/early at between rpm 1.5-2.2....n im stepping the pedal as usual.
these is wat done recently Honda City 1998 1.5 AT. replaced full exhaust system due to crack. 4-2-1 + 2 bullet + 1.6 piping +palsu mugen 2 loop (2inch).
then replace gbox seals. n move to penzoil atf from honda atf(costly)
no one can help this fella ? i also cant think any reason for that
Hi guys, just did decat(4-2-1) and s flow muffler on a campro iafm manual without touching the stock midbox and piping..
As a result I feel a loss of power and torque and a weird noise with CEL on even after reset.is this a result of lost back pressure due to the stock midbox?
This post has been edited by yOuNg$tEr: Jan 10 2015, 12:07 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Sepang - Putrajaya - Cyberjaya
QUOTE(yOuNg$tEr @ Jan 10 2015, 12:06 AM)
Hi guys, just did decat(4-2-1) and s flow muffler on a campro iafm manual without touching the stock midbox and piping..
As a result I feel a loss of power and torque and a weird noise with CEL on even after reset.is this a result of lost back pressure due to the stock midbox?
should be no problem changing to 4-2-1. o2 sensor put back at extractor? try go Proton PDT tuning/reset ecu.
My current ride is Mazda Lantis 323f ( with the 2.0 KF-ZE V6 engine) which came with a factory installed Mazdaspeed Yumex exhaust/muffler ( eg. http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/eng...3-1-8inch.html). ( not sure if its a Mazdaspeed Tabung only or exhaust system is from Mazdaspeed)
Any suggestions on some exhaust mods i can do? only add on so far is KNN Air filter (non open pod). Lookinf for decent fuel consumption with better power delivery. ni
I've changed my extractor to 4-2-1, de-cat, added 2x bullets. Followed by pipes until muffler still stock.
Problem is i get a very loud tinny sound when i do harder acceleration. I can only pinpoint that the noise is actually coming from either the front or below of the car. Any idea what's the problem? is there a way to get rid or reduce the tinny sound?
btw its a persona Iafm Auto
This post has been edited by StarburstMz: Mar 22 2015, 02:06 AM
Nov 10 2014, 06:03 PM
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