Guys,
I know we don't use it because of our weather but has anyone set the air cond temperature to above 26 and yet the air is not warm/hot?

FYI, if this has not already been posted.

Chassis range 488-2193?

what is the latest chasis number?

FYI, my machine once in awhile become like yours, but after meter clocked >3k, the problem was disappear. in my opinion: maybe some new car need more running mileage for the engine to be stabilised.

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Added on September 21, 2012, 4:22 pmafter 4 month, my car is getting better and better except for weird engine sound when idle, anyone experienced the same?   

Overall satisfied

for cfe, not iafm+. I did mentioned before turbine spooling :-). For iafm+ manual preve, i think around 120nm++ shud be ok, it shud be around 2.5k rpm to 3k rpm max for town driving. While cvt iafm+ 2k rpm to 2.5k rpm shud be enough. Unless need more pulling power. Bye.

Yes, hydrogen gas. Rm5.00 per tyre

..i not good in chemistry...nitrogen is it a cooler that can cool down a very high boost cpu? like i7core from 3.Ghz to 7Ghz? ...tyre wont become ice after put in?

about the custom user POI of our gps in CFE, do we just create 1 file for all the POIs or 1 location 1 file or or I can group them in several files like POIKL.asc, POISelangor.asc like that?

cos I am now trying to do the AES POI during office hour base on the jpj AES location lists...hahaha...

or hv someone already share it?    

bro Sanadi, i have been searching, trying to convert .gpi to csv but non avail.. mind to share the tools to convert the .gpi? i dont think that .gpi can be converted directly to .asc.. might need to convert to .csv then only manually converted to .asc...but i lost the first part.. .gpi to .csv... thanks in advance...

yup.. less beading.. how long have u coated bro?

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Added on October 17, 2012, 12:00 pm

unfortunately bro, whenever i try to open .gpi files, the software would not detect the .gpi files.. it was looking for .gpx instead.. 

here are mine.. any advise? tqvm in advance

Hi,

Need a help from sifu here. Since I have gotten my Preve CFE in July, I have encountered 2 occurrences where my battery was drained flat.

The 1st was 2 months old and the latest was yesterday which is 4 months old. In this 2 occurrences, I did jump started the car and let it charged then everything is back to normal.

Wonder if anyone encounter similar problems and possible to share your experience in resolving the problem. Thanks.

May I ask which files in prevoc forum (GPS POIs) is the latest one? I saw so many people uploading their own version, not sure which one is the latest with aes etc.

Actually there is not much difference between 10W 5W and 0W in Malaysia, bro. At our weather, EVEN at cameron getting, it did not goes below 0 celcius. It is only how far it goes below 0 celcius that 10-0 winter rating makes any difference as it mantained fluidity at sub-negative temperature.

At our malaysian lowest temperature, 0 Winter weight has the same viscosity as 10W. As a matter of fact, i would recommend getting the winter rating closer to the operating weight to be better. Therefore 10W30 is better than 0W30 within the same type of eo. This is because the lower the winter rating, the more viscosity index addictives are used. That means more chances of addictives wearing out if use for longer period of time. However if comparing semi/mineral to fs, fs has higher NATURAL VI thus by default, has needed less addictives to keep them apart.

As mentioned in the above post, it is winter rating. 0w can withstand and retain fluidity vs 5W at even lower sub-zero temperature.

You do have a point on 0W30 is better than 10W30 at startup in default. I forgotten all abt that liao until I re-read BobtheOilGuy again. This is however just one aspect of having 0W30 instead of 10W30. Most FS (0W rated should be FS liao coz mineral tak da that rating) here is actually hydrocracked highly refined mineral (Group 3) rather than true Ester or POA based fully synthetic thus VI addictives must be used.

Mineral starting viscosity without VI will rated 0 for OW30 and 5 for 5W30. To thin it further, VI is used to so that that it can reach weight 30 at operating temperature. The more VI is used, the more chances of addictives wearing out thus viscosity will go back to original rating (0 for 0W and 5 for 5W).  Thus if the longer you used, the risk is greater that the starting viscosity will slowly moved back to original rating. Once back to original, 10W30 is definitely more thinner than 0W30. So key point, the wider the range between winter rating and normal temp rating, the more VII is used. The more VII used, the faster it will wear out after extended used due to the larger range.

However this is a mute point if you service your car on schedule. Then again, most FS here are 5W or 0W rated, very rare on 10W rated. So if compare 0W vs 10W, you're talking abt FS vs basic mineral, I would take FS anything as long as I can afford it. Anything better than 10W30 mineral due to its synthetic based contents and properties along with much cleaner mineral based stock. So in actual fact, comparing 10W vs 0W here is another mute point.

However there is still debate going on if 10K and above mileage will wear out the addictives for our weather, driving conditions, humidity, dust that tends to contaminate and wear our eo faster than normal (vs most western countries where the articles are from).

Secondly there are also some newer oil tech such as magnatec, even supposedly the new Havoline tech where lube residue will stick to components even during cold start that can minimized  engine wear. This all adds up to allow multiple choices to reduce startup wear and choosing the most suitable eo viscosity and brands. So questions is......is 0W30 normal fs better than 5W30 fs with magnetized lube......? I don't know either.

From my few days observation, I think my FC for this tank will be much higher! SID indicates 12.8L/100km 
I have to be even more lighter foot. Maybe the SC give me that 15W/50 oil that cause higher FC? 
Why you ask them whether got recall power windows? Where did you got the news from? 
For mine, both front windows are working fine, just a little "tight" feeling when winding up.
But both rear windows are quite powerful and fast.

Bro Arthur, are you happy with this EON SC at Sungai Pinang...? I think I will change to this SC for my next service since they can also do update for the car and this is what I preferred. Do they charge you any unnecessary items (thus, extra fees) in your bill? How's their working attitude?

Regarding 180km/h top speed on your updated TCU, I've noticed also when driving at 80km/h, the new RPM is now close to 2K compare to previous version at around 1.5K, maybe the new program simply shift the entire ratio down a tad to make it more responsive? If I can request my own TCU setting, then I would hope they keep the current (latest) ratio for speed under 60km/h for more agility on city driving and gradually shifting the ratio to previous version for higher speed cruising such as 70-80km/h onwards.