Technically it could last 100K especially if it comes with platinum tipped ground (ultra long life based iridium) but by then it would have been near end of life. You can be sure its performance are greatly degraded by then. IMO, it is recommended to change plug at 80K mileage to maintain optimum performance.

However if those using performance based iridium plugs ie Denso iridium power plug, it can only last abt 50K mileage.

If I'm not wrong Preve iridium change is at 60K mileage. You can be sure it is not the ultra long life type. There are so many variation of iridium out there. Wonder what Preve used?

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 19 2012, 07:53 PM

Most new cars will be massively overinflated by default due to the reason given by Dhuang regardless of brands. Those that comes with suitable inflation are becoz the SA re-pump them for better customer service.

Haha....no prob abt the oil thingy, I myself are doing the same tho I can't name them...read too many articles that added to my knowledge and all mixed up liao. Its a general knowledge anyway unless its a quote or a direct copy, then I usually try to name them

---

Added on September 20, 2012, 10:29 amLike this can last 100K mah....80K changed. But how come manual indicate 60K....so it might not be the same Laser Iridium. Maybe just the normal iridium ix that lasted 60k mileage.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 20 2012, 10:29 AM

It best to attend the earliest time possible....at 7:45 - 8am. High chances of your car going into service bay by 10am. So if you go by 10:30am, there is a 2.5 hours difference PLUS if there is delay in EARLIER cars attended before you, even later to masuk bay.

---

Added on September 20, 2012, 2:59 pmIf you DID NOT do alignment at SC before 1K mileage, that warranty void liao UNLESS you have requested alignment (noted in the service sheet). If nothing is written on your earlier service sheet regarding alignment, most likely you have to pay for it.....practiced by most SC of different manufacturers as well.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Sep 20 2012, 02:59 PM

I meant kilometer. However upon recent reading, I strongly believe do not exceed 40K mileage for Iridium Power range. 30K kilometer is the actual life span, if still perform ok, then can extend further. Some wanted to maintain optimal performance, if that is the case, then 30K kilo IS the maximum.

Based on another knowledgeable member in our Persona forum (Zen) with experience of taking out power plug for regaping after 32K mileage, no sign of soot or lean redness....I think we can go 40K, no prob..

Still wondering what is the point of having a start stop button when you still need to insert a fob, then press button, some more got more problem arises from the start stop button.

Using the manual insert key and turn for any other car is MUCH more easier and practically problemless....also switch off and take out key ALWAYS shut down the engine..

Proton really screw up big time in implementing a new feature that unnecessarily complicate the procedures and create more issues when there should be none. Unfortunately for them, the same feature implemented for other car manufacture DO makes starting easier.....except for a few odd manufacturer that still require insertion of key fob.

I'm more onto the auto type. Yes, it work hard for the first couple of minute, after that, it will lower the compressor usage to the lowest possible just sufficient to maintain the temperature. However it really depends on car air-cond ECU tho. Civic work hard for a couple of minutes then lower it to min...almost soundless after that, did no raise it up and down a few times like mentioned in one of the post above.

Maintaining a set temperature will force the compressor to work at a set time regardlessly. More wastage, I think. As mentioned before if ECU was program right, it will save FC when using auto but when not optimize, more wastage using auto.

Walk in, is it?

CoSE workmanship is shitty as well tho there are some good ones but with the number of cars being service, you'll be lucky to get those rare few.

Only go to CoSE if you need to change part that is not readily available in SC. CoSE usually got parts and change on spot while SC might need to wait for days or even weeks or months depending on the parts ordered.

Why do you need to masuk octane booster? Preve already designed to run at 95 octane. I don't see any need to boost octane that do nothing for the current engine except burning more $$$.

---

Added on October 1, 2012, 10:42 amYa lor, its almost ALWAYS better to overinflate your tyre slightly rather than underinflate. Air will lari slowly, so after a short while, you'll be optimum pressure. Underinflate WILL always be below optimum pressure, wear side treads and increase FC. So I see no benefit in pumping below recommended pressure unless you're using a really hard tyre where it might be too bumpy if you maintain higher pressure.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 1 2012, 10:42 AM

Ok lar...not expensive but next time if can, no need put booster. No point for Preve.

Yes, it takes longer to lari angin if using nitrogen. The truth is beside this, effect on normal daily drive is negligible. I used to pump nitrogen for one of my car. Usually overpump it by 3-4 psi cold pressure due to my softer tyres. Takes a few months before needing to refill nitrogen again. Free nitro for the life of that tyres coz I bought the new tyres from that shop. So its worth it.

However if I have to pay for it, no way I'm going for nitro coz besides lasting a bit longer, I don't feel any other effect for daily drive. Racing kaki might want it coz every seconds improvement counts....but for avg driver, I don't think those seconds are important enuf to pay RM20 bucks for each refill.....

Anyway since that tyre shop nitro spoiled quite some times ago, I switch back to air. Find it more convenient in fact coz I do not need to time myself to go to shop to pump. Just drop by any station in abt 1 month interval (I still overpump, so will last a while), more convenient timing...also can pump very early morning or late night, no need wait for shop to open. (You still have to pump air while its cold...abt 2-4km from house, if lari whole day, then go pump, air will still runs even if its nitro...not very accurate).

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 3 2012, 09:25 AM

The moment you pump even a tiny bit of air inside your nitro tyres, its back to normal air. To get full nitro back, have to suck out all air and repump full nitro. Thats the problem with nitro, so the moment I don't get my free nitro, I switch back to air permanently, long term wise, more convenient, no need to arrange and worry when to go shop to pump.

A 10K or 6 months service interval are meant for fully synthetic oil change. If using mineral or semi syn, then must be 5K interval.

Technically they could void your warranty if your use semi syn and change at 10K interval. In reality, I don't think they do. However if using semi and change at 10K interval, engine sure going to shit one day, then warranty void coz records indicating you're using semi and change at 10K interval.

So for your case, if you're using semi at 1K mileage, then keep the 5K service interval. If you have change to fully syn lube, then they have no right to void free labor at 10K.

It is recommended NOT to use fully syn in the first 10K mileage to allow the engine to bed in during the run-in period. Bed in period is where we require more friction between piston, bore wall, etc to allow "molded" bed in for long term smooth running. Fully syn smoothness is actually counterproductive during this period.

However some higher end vehicle are already delivered fully bed in, no 1K nor 5K service needed, thus can use FS straight away. Preve campro and other manufacturer mid to low end vehicles definitely need this.

Check if it was the first few batches of Preve. Those are the most problematic guinea pigs for Proton. Not worth the heartache it is going to cost even at 5K discount.

It happens whenever there is a mutiny within the crews. It just take one individual a preemptive action before other can react to take over the page.

Haha...happened in my ex-clan main facebook page in Mafia Wars game. Crew mutiny, kick off the creators......no choice but to advice all others to abandon page and re-create a new ones....unless you can negotiate to get the page back.

Actually there is not much difference between 10W 5W and 0W in Malaysia, bro. At our weather, EVEN at cameron getting, it did not goes below 0 celcius. It is only how far it goes below 0 celcius that 10-0 winter rating makes any difference as it mantained fluidity at sub-negative temperature.

At our malaysian lowest temperature, 0 Winter weight has the same viscosity as 10W. As a matter of fact, i would recommend getting the winter rating closer to the operating weight to be better. Therefore 10W30 is better than 0W30 within the same type of eo. This is because the lower the winter rating, the more viscosity index addictives are used. That means more chances of addictives wearing out if use for longer period of time. However if comparing semi/mineral to fs, fs has higher NATURAL VI thus by default, has needed less addictives to keep them apart.

As mentioned in the above post, it is winter rating. 0w can withstand and retain fluidity vs 5W at even lower sub-zero temperature.

You do have a point on 0W30 is better than 10W30 at startup in default. I forgotten all abt that liao until I re-read BobtheOilGuy again. This is however just one aspect of having 0W30 instead of 10W30. Most FS (0W rated should be FS liao coz mineral tak da that rating) here is actually hydrocracked highly refined mineral (Group 3) rather than true Ester or POA based fully synthetic thus VI addictives must be used.

Mineral starting viscosity without VI will rated 0 for OW30 and 5 for 5W30. To thin it further, VI is used to so that that it can reach weight 30 at operating temperature. The more VI is used, the more chances of addictives wearing out thus viscosity will go back to original rating (0 for 0W and 5 for 5W). Thus if the longer you used, the risk is greater that the starting viscosity will slowly moved back to original rating. Once back to original, 10W30 is definitely more thinner than 0W30. So key point, the wider the range between winter rating and normal temp rating, the more VII is used. The more VII used, the faster it will wear out after extended used due to the larger range.

However this is a mute point if you service your car on schedule. Then again, most FS here are 5W or 0W rated, very rare on 10W rated. So if compare 0W vs 10W, you're talking abt FS vs basic mineral, I would take FS anything as long as I can afford it. Anything better than 10W30 mineral due to its synthetic based contents and properties along with much cleaner mineral based stock. So in actual fact, comparing 10W vs 0W here is another mute point.

However there is still debate going on if 10K and above mileage will wear out the addictives for our weather, driving conditions, humidity, dust that tends to contaminate and wear our eo faster than normal (vs most western countries where the articles are from).

Secondly there are also some newer oil tech such as magnatec, even supposedly the new Havoline tech where lube residue will stick to components even during cold start that can minimized engine wear. This all adds up to allow multiple choices to reduce startup wear and choosing the most suitable eo viscosity and brands. So questions is......is 0W30 normal fs better than 5W30 fs with magnetized lube......? I don't know either.

This post has been edited by Cavino: Oct 30 2012, 03:16 PM